Sponsorship Opportunities:
Coral Ever After appreciates all the community involvement to save the corals, one polyp at a time. We are most reliant on local sources of dying corals that need rehabilitation. Currently, we are accepting most LPS, some soft corals, and up to mini-colonies of SPS. We also are accepting most reef-friendly fish (suitable for up to 120g) and invertebrates; however, this status frequently changes. Equipment, food, and other supplies are handled on a case-by-case basis. Contact us to discuss sponsor opportunities, as we have a variety of options and benefits available.
Specifically, we are currently looking for the following:
- Dedicated suppliers of corals to rehabilitate
- New products to treat parasites and diseases
- Training in laboratory procedures, rescue protocol, etc.
Community Engagement:
From underwater clean-ups to providing corals to local schools, we are interested in volunteering to help your cause! Contact us to discuss your opportunity.
Historical Community Engagements:
- Underwater refuse clean-up in Pigeon/Jewel Cayes, Honduras
- Coral nursery restoration and outplanting in Curacao
- 3D printing coral models for educational use
- Donation of corals for educational use in local schools
- Donation of an unusual coral for display in a nonprofit public aquarium
Speaking Engagements:
Do you have an upcoming event requiring a unique topic with a passionate speaker? Contact us to discuss your event and interests.
Previous Presentation Topics:
- 2022, Bethesda, MD: “Scary Frights and Aquatic Ghouls” (Halloween-themed aquarium pests)
- 2022, Milwaukee, WI: “Beyond the Brink: A Systems Engineering Approach to Coral Triage and Rehabilitation”
- 2019, Salt Lake City, UT: “Beyond the Brink: Lessons from Coral Triage to Rehabilitation”
- 2019, Kensington, MD: “Beyond the Brink: Lessons from Coral Triage to Rehabilitation”
- 2012, Salt Lake City, UT: “Scary Frights and Aquatic Ghouls” (Halloween-themed aquarium pests)
- 2010, Dayton, OH: “Pests of the Saltwater Aquarium Hobby”
- 2009, Dayton, OH: “Introduction to the Saltwater Aquarium Hobby”
Hi Nicole,
I caught your MACNA talk, great work BTW. I was hoping you might have a moment to answer a couple questions?
1. What is the significance of the skeleton being green? Time the skeleton was exposed or something else? I always figured the exposed skeleton turns green due to algae growth.
2. I don’t think Ive run into pink skeletons before. I would like to hear your thoughts on those as well.
Hello Hunter! Thanks for reaching out!
Great questions – I was hoping to spend more time discussing these concerns in the presentation, but I ran out of time!
1. When I see a “concrete-green” skeleton in a coral that is dying, I am typically concerned that it is a boring algae causing bioerosion. You’re absolutely right in that most cases, a green skeleton is just film algae growing on the exposed skeleton. The algae I’m referencing grows underneath the healthy tissue, through the skeleton. If you were to remove the tissue, the skeleton would be green underneath. This is a pretty interesting overview article, but I think there’s more to the boring algae (maybe it changes the local pH and is detrimental to the coral).
2. As for the pink skeletons, I think there are a few different potential causes. Most of the articles I’ve read only discuss Pink Line Syndrome (PLS), which is a cyanobacteria, if I recall correctly. However, what I was attempting to show in my presentation was a pink skeleton that extends quite far down below the tissue. My guess (totally a guess) is that the coral is actually the one doing this – maybe as a chemically-protective measure against some invader or just as a stress reaction. I haven’t found a way to consistently handle whatever is going on in these cases, but I do occasionally get lucky and have them survive.
I hope that clarifies my presentation and helps you going forward! Thanks again!
-Nikki
Hello Nicole,
first excuse my bad english but its not my native language.
I found you via internet if I was searching for a way at breaking the lifecycle for coral pests.
I just want to ask you some questions. Maybe I can contact you via mail?
thx from Germany
Frank
Hi Frank,
There is no need to apologize, because I do not speak German! I am happy to help, but I do not publicly post my email address due to spammers. We can discuss here or on a public reef forum (just send the link), if you would like. Most coral pest lifecycles can be broken by dipping the corals daily for the first week, every two days the second week, every three days the third week, and one day during the fourth week. Specific pests require less (e.g., pests that are live-bearers since they do not have eggs to hatch). This is a great topic, so thank you for asking! I will add it to my list of topics that need a blog. I’ve included a few references below that might get you pointed in the right direction.
References:
Acropora-Eating Flatworm Lifecycle
Overview of various parasitic lifecycles
Another interesting parasite lifecycle paper
Modeling Biology
Stella Model Exchange
Hi Nicole,
many thanks for answering and for the References. I continue in poor english (using “long forgotten school english” and a helpful translater) hoping you understand the sense :-). It’s a bit embarrassing to know having a lot of spelling mistakes because the net never forgets.
This was the reason for a private correspondence. So we discuss here because it’s a great and very helpful site. Thanks for sharing your experiences.
I have already seen your Presentation about dip process, chart of identifying signs etc. of course.
The reason I want to dip isn´t one of my coral is dying. I want to do because I don’t want to have problems later in a full display tank that’s why I want to break lifecycle.
Here are some questions how do you think about it and what would you change?
Tank
Empty and clean my used display tank 152g.
Is it sufficient to let dry the using tank for one week or do I have to disinfect?
Starting new…
I only use new Real Rock Reef- Aiptasia problems then impossible? Or can fish bring it back?
Corals
I start with two QT about 15g, heater, lighting and small powerhead –clean water of course.
After each procedure I put them in a clean water second QT tank and dump the water of the first QT away (in alternation).
I guess filtering is not necessary?
I would use new frags.
I guess the chance of success is greater when I remove plugs before?
Do I need to do something about the fracture where the coral sat on the plug after removing?
Any idea how to fix them without plug in QT tank?
Frags up to what size recommendable in consideration of keep them well clean from pests and parasites do you recommend?
Dip Procedure
As I wrote above….the frag should be in good condition because the reason to dip is prophylaxis/ to enjoy long time about health corals.
1 Dip peroxide 3% -4:1 for 20 seconds
2 Immediately after I could not find what you recommend as a second dip
3 Immediately last dip using coral RX –How long?
Is it right three dips directly behind each other? Any difference whether soft coral, LPS, SPS
Make all dip sense if I want to have some fish in my display tank with regard to reinfection?
Many thanks for your support and greetings from Germany.
Frank
Hi Frank,
To ease your mind, I’ll edit anything that might be considered “poor English,” but please understand that many “native English speakers” have much worse grammar/spelling than you. You’re doing great! 🙂
These are great questions, too! I had a post on an old blog discussing a lot of this; I’ll see if I can republish it soon for you. You’re absolutely doing the right thing in establishing quarantine tanks to prevent problems in the future.
I do typically use bleach to disinfect my tanks before use, but that is just to prevent any unwanted algae from the previous setup (e.g., bryopsis). I have never seen Aiptasia survive in a dry tank, so if Aiptasia are your main concern, then just drying the tank should suffice.
As for the coral quarantine tanks, I personally prefer to keep the tank up permanently since the corals should be quarantined for at least 30 days. For this permanently established quarantine, I use good filtration, lighting, and everything to a similar level of quality as on my display tank. Frags are removed from their base rock or frag plugs, dipped (see more below), then placed on new frag plugs with super glue gel (cyanoacrylate gel). Personally, I have taken in nearly every size of coral, but smaller ones are easier to inspect.
The “tank transfer method” (what you described with alternating clean aquariums) is typically just used for fish. Quarantining your corals for 30 days in a fishless tank will eliminate many parasites that could affect your fish.
I do dip LPS in tank water and 3% hydrogen peroxide in a 4:1 ratio for about 20 seconds, but I do not do this typically with soft corals for SPS. My second dip varies based on whatever is going on with the coral as a problem (for example, I’d use a flatworm dip if I noticed the coral had flatworms on it). If you do not see any issues, then you can probably skip the second dip. Lastly, I use CoralRx according to the manufacturer’s instructions (except on deepwater/ smooth-skinned Acropora). There are lots of other good dips – just find what works for you. The important thing is that you are dipping, not that you are following my procedures.
Hope that helps!
Hi Nicole, my name is John. I caught your talk at macna 22 about coral disease. I’ve been trying to find someone I can talk to via text / email / etc. About an issue im having with lps in my 220 gal system. I’ve posted on FB groups and on R2R and while I’ve gotten some decent insight i feel I need the input of more of a professional. I was wondering if you’d be willing to help me out and mayne give me some input? My email is most likely going to be included in the form and my cell # is [removed for privacy]
Hi John! Would you please point me to your troubleshooting threads (preferably on R2R)? Troubleshooting other peoples’ tanks isn’t exactly my niche, but I am still happy to help try! While email may work, I find that group-troubleshooting in a thread is typically more productive (and benefits all readers). Hopefully we can all get your 220g back to fully healthy soon! V/r, Nikki
Nikki
Hello my name is Matthew Smoyer, I run a community group called the Carolina Reefing Community with Brandi Kamp. We do zoom call meetings the 3rd Thursday of every month for the community group.
Our next zoom meeting is this Thursday the 17th at 8pm EST. We would love for you to come check it out and possibly be a presenter for one in the future. Our website is CRChub.com from there you can check out all of our previous zoom meetings, you can link to this current meeting and you can also link to our social media pages.
I really enjoyed your presentation you did for MACNA and I was hope that you would be willing do something like that for us. Our vision for CRC is to bring the trade show experience to the folks that won’t normally go to these shows and all other interested reefers. We accomplish this via zoom calls because it is very convenient for everyone involved and it isn’t a huge investment of time and resources to pull something like this off every month. We typically have a Q&A and a hangout period after our presentations. The atmosphere is super laid back and folks can come and go as they want.
I can be reached via email at [removed for privacy]. I also sent you a PM via Facebook messenger.
Thanks
Matt
Hi Matt! Thanks so much for reaching out! As we discussed privately, I am terribly sorry I was unable to make it to the last meeting, but I certainly hope our schedules align soon! Looking forward to meeting you and the folks in your group! V/r, Nikki
Hi Nicole,
Please can you help me with lobophylia recession, some lobos and welso are fine, some are going in to recession. What could be a problem? Alk is 6.5dkh, Ca 430, Mg 1350 Salinity 35,5ppt
Can you help?
Hello! Thanks for reaching out, although I wish it were on better terms! While I love rescuing corals, I do recommend a community approach for troubleshooting. If you have a favorite local club or larger online forum, I recommend posting there. Involving a group of people can get you more ideas, faster. Feel free to send me a link to your post, and I’ll try to give some feedback as well. Best wishes!!