Pipe Organ corals (Tubipora musica) are absolutely amazing, in my opinion. They build red tubes for each polyp, and the varying heights of those tubes makes the coral look like… wait for it… a pipe organ! Their polyps extend out from the tubes and wave in the current. The green variety makes a great alternative to green star polyps, for those who like the wavy green mats but would prefer something a bit less invasive. With years of success keeping and sharing these unique beauties, hopefully this introduction to Pipe Organ corals will help others.
When I entered the reefkeeping hobby back in the 00’s (wow – I’m old), Pipe Organ corals were on the no-go list, as they typically slowly diminished in most aquariums. Of course, as a newbie, I didn’t do my research and bought a fantastic green one. Somehow, some way, I managed to keep it… and it thrived! Over the many years I had it, I fragged it over a hundred times. This is it a bit browned out from high nutrients (note the green hair algae).
Then, when a local fish store heard of my success, they gave me a dying white one (not bleached) to try. Again, I had success! It turned into one of the most stunning corals I’ve ever had. (And, to be clear, the coral stayed a very slight peach color for years, as shown in this photo.)
So, based on my success over years, here is what I’ve learned. First, knowing what they are is key. Pipe organ corals are usually mistakenly categorized as “large polyp stony corals” as they form solid tubes, but they are actually classified as soft corals. However, their care level is more intensive than most soft corals.
Quarantine and Treatment of Pipe Organ Corals:
Since the Pipe Organ coral is made of tubes, there are tons of perfect living spaces for all sorts of creatures. Be aware that the pipe organ could harbor bristle worms, flat worms, and lots of detritus. Use of a good coral dip and quarantine will help prevent unwanted organisms.
I took this coral in to rescue it. Note the complete lack of tissue on the tubes near the polyps. However, the skeleton is mostly clear of algae, and the coral’s degradation has occurred over a long period of time. If the skeleton was covered in algae, the coral would likely struggle to recover more. [Learn more about assessing coral health]
Lighting:
The green variety definitely requires higher light than the white variety, as it easily will brown out in lower light. I usually kept the green ones up on the rocks with my SPS corals and the white ones down on the sand bed. Although, as with all corals, an initial acclimation period is recommended.
Flow:
This is tricky. Flow must be high enough to prevent detritus from settling on/in the tubes, but low enough to not whip the delicate polyps around. Detritus settlement is a huge concern as it will fuel algal growth, which will, in turn, outgrow the coral.
Nutrients:
As stated above, nutrients are a huge concern, as any algae covering the Pipe Organ coral tubes will prevent the coral from extending its polyps. I do not recommend pipe organ corals for aquariums having an issue with cyanobacteria, hair algae, or other invasive alga. I’ve seen recommendations that Pipe Organ corals need pristine water parameters, with phosphate and nitrate levels toward those recommended for SPS (nearly undetectable). However, that has not been my experience. They seem to tolerate high nutrients well, as long as there is no nuisance algae on the colony.
In my experience, Pipe Organ corals also don’t appreciate target feeding. I’ve tried various foods and various methods, but they all result in the coral polyps “wilting.” As soon as the food touches their polyps, the polyps just shrivel and droop, which more resembles a defense mechanism than feeding.
Since the coral is made of tubes, there are tons of areas for detritus collection. If the coral is not opening, the tubes can be blown off lightly with a turkey baster to help remove detritus. The can tubes grow in a structure similar to the inside of bamboo with internal closures. If the coral is not kept free of detritus, portions of the tubes can trap the detritus indefinitely. This may leach nutrients from the colony over time and may cause issues in the future.
Other Water Parameters:
While I was not concerned with higher phosphate and nitrate levels for Pipe Organ corals, I was concerned with maintaining proper alkalinity, calcium, and magnesium levels. These corals may not be growing the typical SPS or LPS skeletons, but they are still creating massive structures. While I won’t debate the “proper” ranges here, I have always maintained my tanks around Alk: 9 dKh, Ca: 425 ppm, and Mag: 1350 ppm. But, that’s just me, and it seems to work just fine.
Fragging Pipe Organ Corals:
I believe the lack of success from decades ago came from poor fragging. Most colonies imported were chopped very close to the top of the polyp, which ended up chopping the body of the polyp itself. I highly discourage the use of bone cutters on pipe organs since the cutters are more likely to crush the coral than cut it. Instead, I recommend a razor blade. Cut a healthy specimen from the top downward, hopefully going between tubes. Keep as much tube height as possible as it is hard to determine where the polyp is inside. Use cyanoacrylate (super glue gel) to mount the frag on a piece of rubble or plug. Within about a week, small fleshy bumps should appear, as shown, as the start of new tubes. They usually start about a centimeter down from the top of the red tube and form a horizontal base around the tube. It is these horizontal attachment points that the razor blade should cut through during fragging, rather than the tubes themselves.
When All Else Fails:
If a pipe organ dies, its skeleton is still useful. They are gorgeous additions to fish-only aquariums due to their bright red natural coloration. They are also great in sumps due to their porosity (great hiding places for all sorts of critters). My favorite way to recycle the skeleton is to crush it up and add it to a white sand bed. The red dots contrast beautifully with a stark white background.
Conclusion:
Pipe Organ corals are a beautiful addition to a reef tank, and they do not deserve the reputation they have received. Their red skeletons provide a bright pop of unique color, and their polyps provide interesting movement within the tank.
