Rehabilitation Journey of Dying Ricordea Corals

Previously Dying Ricordea Corallimorph Fully Rehabilitated

When I saw a rock at my local fish store with two dying Ricordea corals bleached to practically zero color, I knew I had to try to rehabilitate them.  

Intake: Acclimation, Inspection, and Dips

Bleached, Retracted,  and Dying Ricordea Corallimorph

Upon arriving at my home, I worked through my typical inspection, dip, and quarantine processes on these two dying Ricordea corals. Although hard to tell, this retracted Ricordea coral was nearly colorless (bleached) (March 14, 2012), but there was fluorescence. The mouths weren’t gaping, and the corals were intact (no damaged tissue). The bleaching severity led me to react to these corals as an “urgent” situation. The “usable diagnosis” (I’m not a medical professional, but this helps me create a care plan) was bleaching due to high light. (I saw where these two corals were physically located in the aquarium, so it was pretty obvious that they were receiving excessive light.)

Then, I had to assess the corals’ overall health. Since bleaching is often due to excessive light, wherein the zooxanthallae leave the coral, the coral has an increased chance of starvation. Note that the coral is surrounded by colorful coralline algae, which can typically tolerate higher-light conditions. This particular Ricordea coral was stressed but appeared in relatively good health (not quite starving). However, the other Ricordea (not pictured – I can’t find a photo) was extremely small and appeared on the brink of starvation.

Next, I removed the dying Ricordea corals from the substrate as much as possible to reduce introduction of parasites and nuisance algae. I continued through my dipping process, which included both a hydrogen peroxide-based dip and a CoralRx dip. Afterward, I glued each coral to a frag plug and placed both corals in the quarantine aquarium.

Quarantine: Care and Feeding

Although “soft corals,” like these dying Ricordea corals, can have a higher saturation point (level of light for optimal photosynthesis) and possibly photoinhibition point (level of detrimental light) than their stoney counterparts, they can still get stressed and expel their zooxanthallae.  With proper water conditions and lower light, they will frequently heal on their own.  Supplemental feeding helps replace the energy source previously provided by the zooxanthallae.

Recovering Ricordea Coral

Therefore, the solution for these corals was a healthy tank, low lighting, low flow, and a bit of feeding.  Ricordea are not the most apt to taking food directly, especially when unwell.  But, within a few days, the larger coral was eating well (very very small particulate food.) Once the corals went through 30 days of quarantine, were eating well, and did not have any concerning indicators, I used the dip process again before moving the Ricordea corals into my grow-out tank.

(Coral shown on 13 May 2012)

Bleached and Dying Ricordea Coral

The second Ricordea was not recovering as fast as the larger one, but it was starting to regain color.

(Coral shown 14 May 2012)

Recovering Ricordea Coral

By 22 May 2012, the larger Ricordea coral had almost fully recovered. The smaller one still had a ways to go.

Conclusion: Ricordea Rehabilitation Success

Previously Dying Ricordea Corallimorph Fully Rehabilitated

By 30 June 2012 (only slightly more than three months later), the larger Ricordea was fully rehabilitated. The smaller Ricordea made a full recovery as well.

Bleached, Retracted, and Dying Ricordea CorallimorphPreviously Dying Ricordea Corallimorph Fully Rehabilitated
From bleached to beautiful in only three months!

References:

For more information on light saturation and photoinhibition in corals and clams, see this link. (It’s a bit dated, but it still contains some interesting information.)

Dying Homophyllia (Scolymia) Coral Rehabilitation

Previously Dying Homophyllia australia (Scolymia) Coral Fully Rehabilitated

A local reefkeeper contacted me about possibly saving his dying Scolymia coral (Homophyllia australis), and the condition of it sounded quite bad. But, seeing its condition was still a shock. I wasn’t sure if there was even a mouth left since the tissue was so shrunken and discolored. But, I went ahead and did my best; its complete rehabilitation was a success! Read on for more information about this dying Homophyllia australis (Scolymia) coral’s successful rehabilitation.

Intake: Acclimation, Inspection, and Dips

Dying Homophyllia australia (Scolymia) Coral in a Dip

When I brought the coral home (12 March 2022), I placed it (still in the container) into the sump of my quarantine tank to acclimate to the temperature for only 15 minutes. Next, I brought it over to my workbench for inspection, dipping, etc.

First, I had to assess its health. For more information on assessing a coral’s health and potential causes of damage, check out “Assessing Coral Health: An Introduction.”

Next, came the inspection and dip process. My “handy-dandy flow-chart” led me to classify this coral as an “urgent” case, which meant that it was in bad shape requiring lots of care. However, it wasn’t to the point of an emergency. This category determination was based on the algae-covered skeleton, clinging tissue, and unknown mouth situation (along with the mesenterial filaments coming out everywhere). Then came my dip process, which was fairly standard for this case. Typically I would remove excess skeleton and glue down any damaged tissue, but in this case, I absolutely had no clue what was what. Even what little tissue remained didn’t fluoresce much, so I just rolled with what I had.

Quarantine: Care and Feeding

Dying Homophyllia australia (Scolymia) Coral

After the dips, I placed the coral into my quarantine tank. Typically, I place these types of corals on the sand bed, but I wanted to really observe this one closely. So, I placed it up on a frag rack up near the surface of the water. This would also make feedings easier. I still wasn’t sure what was tissue and what was skeleton at this point.

In several days (18 March 2022), I was able to start to see the actual remaining tissue condition a bit better. Granted, it was pretty bad. At this point, I was in a “watch-and-see” mode. Attempts to feed could cause the coral to rot, if it is unable to properly digest the food. However, I did start target feeding corals nearby to see if I could elicit a feeding response.

Dying Homophyllia australia (Scolymia) Coral

In less than a month (8 April 2022), the coral was no longer retracted into the skeleton. It wasn’t pretty, but by this point, I had confidence in its survival – as long as I could get it to eat. However, I still wasn’t ready to start feeding it, as its mouth condition was unsuitable.

Recovering Homophyllia australia (Scolymia) Coral

The coral was finally ready to start taking supplemental food by about the 1.5 month point (21 May 2022). Notice the tentacles extending and mostly-formed mouth. Success!

Conclusion: Scolymia Rehabilitation Success

Rehabilitated Homophyllia australia (Scolymia) Coral

Today, the previously dying Homophyllia australis (Scolymia) coral is an absolute stunner (although my photography is lacking). Notice how a lot of the grayish stripes turned green over time. This coral also features various orange shades and even yellow hues! Absolutely lovely! (Photo was taken 25 November 2023.)

Dying Homophyllia australia (Scolymia) Coral in a DipRehabilitated Homophyllia australia (Scolymia) Coral

Introduction to Pipe Organ Corals

Naturally white Pipe Organ (Tubipora musica?) coral

Pipe Organ corals (Tubipora musica) are absolutely amazing, in my opinion.  They build red tubes for each polyp, and the varying heights of those tubes makes the coral look like… wait for it… a pipe organ!  Their polyps extend out from the tubes and wave in the current. The green variety makes a great alternative to green star polyps, for those who like the wavy green mats but would prefer something a bit less invasive. With years of success keeping and sharing these unique beauties, hopefully this introduction to Pipe Organ corals will help others.

Pipe Organ (Tubipora musica) coral colony

When I entered the reefkeeping hobby back in the 00’s (wow – I’m old), Pipe Organ corals were on the no-go list, as they typically slowly diminished in most aquariums.  Of course, as a newbie, I didn’t do my research and bought a fantastic green one.  Somehow, some way, I managed to keep it… and it thrived!  Over the many years I had it, I fragged it over a hundred times.  This is it a bit browned out from high nutrients (note the green hair algae).

Naturally white Pipe Organ (Tubipora musica?) coral

Then, when a local fish store heard of my success, they gave me a dying white one (not bleached) to try.  Again, I had success! It turned into one of the most stunning corals I’ve ever had. (And, to be clear, the coral stayed a very slight peach color for years, as shown in this photo.)

So, based on my success over years, here is what I’ve learned. First, knowing what they are is key. Pipe organ corals are usually mistakenly categorized as “large polyp stony corals” as they form solid tubes, but they are actually classified as soft corals.  However, their care level is more intensive than most soft corals. 

Quarantine and Treatment of Pipe Organ Corals:

Recovering Pipe Organ (Tubipora musica) coral

Since the Pipe Organ coral is made of tubes, there are tons of perfect living spaces for all sorts of creatures.  Be aware that the pipe organ could harbor bristle worms, flat worms, and lots of detritus.  Use of a good coral dip and quarantine will help prevent unwanted organisms.

I took this coral in to rescue it. Note the complete lack of tissue on the tubes near the polyps. However, the skeleton is mostly clear of algae, and the coral’s degradation has occurred over a long period of time. If the skeleton was covered in algae, the coral would likely struggle to recover more. [Learn more about assessing coral health]

Lighting:

The green variety definitely requires higher light than the white variety, as it easily will brown out in lower light.  I usually kept the green ones up on the rocks with my SPS corals and the white ones down on the sand bed. Although, as with all corals, an initial acclimation period is recommended.

Flow:

Pipe Organ Coral (Tubipora musica) polyps

This is tricky.  Flow must be high enough to prevent detritus from settling on/in the tubes, but low enough to not whip the delicate polyps around.  Detritus settlement is a huge concern as it will fuel algal growth, which will, in turn, outgrow the coral.

Nutrients:

As stated above, nutrients are a huge concern, as any algae covering the Pipe Organ coral tubes will prevent the coral from extending its polyps.  I do not recommend pipe organ corals for aquariums having an issue with cyanobacteria, hair algae, or other invasive alga.  I’ve seen recommendations that Pipe Organ corals need pristine water parameters, with phosphate and nitrate levels toward those recommended for SPS (nearly undetectable). However, that has not been my experience. They seem to tolerate high nutrients well, as long as there is no nuisance algae on the colony.

In my experience, Pipe Organ corals also don’t appreciate target feeding.  I’ve tried various foods and various methods, but they all result in the coral polyps “wilting.”  As soon as the food touches their polyps, the polyps just shrivel and droop, which more resembles a defense mechanism than feeding.

Since the coral is made of tubes, there are tons of areas for detritus collection. If the coral is not opening, the tubes can be blown off lightly with a turkey baster to help remove detritus. The can tubes grow in a structure similar to the inside of bamboo with internal closures. If the coral is not kept free of detritus, portions of the tubes can trap the detritus indefinitely. This may leach nutrients from the colony over time and may cause issues in the future.

Other Water Parameters:

While I was not concerned with higher phosphate and nitrate levels for Pipe Organ corals, I was concerned with maintaining proper alkalinity, calcium, and magnesium levels. These corals may not be growing the typical SPS or LPS skeletons, but they are still creating massive structures. While I won’t debate the “proper” ranges here, I have always maintained my tanks around Alk: 9 dKh, Ca: 425 ppm, and Mag: 1350 ppm. But, that’s just me, and it seems to work just fine.

Fragging Pipe Organ Corals:

Pipe Organ (Tubipora musica) coral frags

I believe the lack of success from decades ago came from poor fragging.  Most colonies imported were chopped very close to the top of the polyp, which ended up chopping the body of the polyp itself.  I highly discourage the use of bone cutters on pipe organs since the cutters are more likely to crush the coral than cut it.  Instead, I recommend a razor blade.  Cut a healthy specimen from the top downward, hopefully going between tubes.  Keep as much tube height as possible as it is hard to determine where the polyp is inside.  Use cyanoacrylate (super glue gel) to mount the frag on a piece of rubble or plug.  Within about a week, small fleshy bumps should appear, as shown, as the start of new tubes. They usually start about a centimeter down from the top of the red tube and form a horizontal base around the tube. It is these horizontal attachment points that the razor blade should cut through during fragging, rather than the tubes themselves.

When All Else Fails:

If a pipe organ dies, its skeleton is still useful.  They are gorgeous additions to fish-only aquariums due to their bright red natural coloration.  They are also great in sumps due to their porosity (great hiding places for all sorts of critters).  My favorite way to recycle the skeleton is to crush it up and add it to a white sand bed.  The red dots contrast beautifully with a stark white background.

Conclusion:

Pipe Organ corals are a beautiful addition to a reef tank, and they do not deserve the reputation they have received. Their red skeletons provide a bright pop of unique color, and their polyps provide interesting movement within the tank.       

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