Berghia Nudibranchs: Natural Aiptasia Predators

Berghia Nudibranchs Eating an Aiptasia Anemone

Not only are “Berghia Nudibranchs” (Aeolidiella stephanieae) elegant, with their glowing blue-white cerata, but they are also amazing natural Aiptasia anemone predators. Originating from the Florida Keys, once introduced to an Aiptasia-infested aquarium, the nudibranchs band together at night to hunt and take down the anemones, one-by-one. At first, this is a slow process, but the nudibranchs reproduce quickly enough to out-compete the anemones. Understanding a few key concepts on the nudibranch’s lifecycle, natural predators to avoid, and basic care may help eradicate Aiptasia from an aquarium.

Berghia Nudibranchs Eating an Aiptasia Anemone
Berghia Nudibranchs Eating an Aiptasia Anemone

Lifecycle of Berghia Nudibranchs:

Egg Development:

Berghia Nudibranch Egg Spiral Mass

Mature nudibranchs (about five to seven weeks old) lay egg masses in beautiful spirals with less than 100 eggs initially to more than 250, approximately every four days. As the nudibranchs mature, they lay more eggs per mass, more frequently. I currently have one pair that returns to the same place in the aquarium every two nights to lay eggs together (they appear uninterested in the other nudibranchs, which may be due to their extra-large size).

Berghia Nudibranch Egg

Egg development occurs over the course of about 12 days, as shown in the photos below.

Metamorphosis:

Newly Hatched Berghia Nudibranch

This short stage (approximately one-to-three days) of Berghia nudibranch development is my favorite. The nudibranchs hatch into these rice-shaped fluorescent blue larvae, which look very similar to their adult cerata. I was collecting some adults one day, when I saw these floating on the underside of the surface of the water. They tend to float upward and stay until metamorphosis is complete, which may make them a target for fish to eat.

Juvenile Berghia Nudibranchs:

Juvenile and Larval Berghia Nudibranchs

This photo shows a larval Berghia Nudibranch, along with a juvenile (a week or two old post-hatching). After metamorphosis, the juveniles settle back into the rocks to begin hunting Aiptasia. As they are extremely small, they tend to attack only the smallest anemones, likely to avoid being eaten.

Adult Berghia Nudibranchs

Berghia Nudibranchs and Aiptasia Anemone

Similar to the juvenile nudibranchs, the adults band together to hunt anemones, but as they grow, they are able to prey on larger anemones. A well-fed nudibranch will take on the brown coloration, as shown, from ingesting and retaining the anemones’ zooxanthallae.

Hunting in groups, along with their hermaphroditic nature, typically provides plenty of mating opportunities. With egg masses over 100 laid every few days, the population can quickly outpace the food source (the nudibranchs can starve in around five days without food). Provided with enough food and protection, the nudibranchs will live approximately 10-12 months. However, Berghia Nudibranchs do face several threats in the home aquarium.

Aquarium Husbandry:

General Information:

Berghia Nudibranchs and Aiptasia Anemone

Unfortunately, Berghia Nudibranchs are not as tolerant of poor water conditions as Aiptasia; they require stable parameters within natural saltwater conditions. Additionally, they are prey for a variety of wrasses (but thankfully the nudibranchs’ nocturnal nature helps protect them), and the egg masses and juveniles are prey for amphipods. Even Aiptasia will eat the nudibranchs if they are lucky enough to catch one.

Selection:

Typically, for a moderate Aiptasia infestation, one Berghia per 10-gallons is recommended (see the table below). However, since Berghia nudibranchs hunt in groups and need to reproduce, never introduce less than three, regardless of tank size. For example, three nudibranchs would be an appropriate number for a 30-gallon aquarium, a 10-gallon aquarium, and also a 1-gallon aquarium. Even then, it is best to overestimate to ensure the nudibranchs can find each other to breed. In other words, if the tank size falls between the recommended quantities below, round up.

Size also matters. While smaller nudibranchs cost less, they also may not reproduce for a few more weeks. They are also less able to attack larger Aiptasia or withstand high-flow aquariums (e.g., SPS-dominant). In tanks with high flow, larger predators, heavy infestations, and/or large Aiptasia, mature adults are best. For low-flow tanks with light Aiptasia infestations, a mixture of medium and small nudibranchs may work best.

Tank SizeInitial Berghia Nudibranchs*
1-gallon3 Medium Nudibranchs
10-gallons3 Medium Nudibranchs
30-gallons3 Medium Nudibranchs
40-gallons4 Medium Nudibranchs
75-gallons8 Medium Nudibranchs
90-gallons9 Medium Nudibranchs
120-gallons12 Medium Nudibranchs
150-gallons15 Medium Nudibranchs
300-gallons30 Medium Nudibranchs
Recommended Berghia Nudibranch Starting Populations (*for medium flow, moderate-infestation tanks)

[NOTE: If you are looking for a source of Berghia Nudibranchs, please see Reference #4 at the end of this article for a potential source. This page is not currently affiliated with any nudibranch vendors.]

Introduction into the Aquarium:

Adult Berghia Nudibranchs

If the nudibranchs were shipped, they are likely more white colored due to a lack of food. And, depending on the temperature conditions during shipping, they may appear quite sluggish. They likely came in a jar, similar to the one shown here. Never place this jar to float in the tank for acclimation, as the jar’s motion may tumble the nudibranchs. Instead, slowly remove the jar’s water, while adding the same amount of tank water back into the jar, over the course of about 30 minutes to an hour. This will enable the nudibranchs to adjust to the tank while minimizing injury. Next, turn off all flow in the tank, and if there are predator fish, wait until the lights go off.

Place the jar in the rocks (not on the sand) near (but not on) some Aiptasia anemones. Allow the nudibranchs to crawl out naturally on their own. If they are sluggish or the flow needs to be restored to the tank, use a pipette with the end cut off to gently baste them out of the jar.

Final Thoughts and Conclusion:

It’s important to remember that nudibranchs are only a natural control, not a cure; they cannot reach every place Aiptasia may infest. After tank introduction, it is common to not see the Berghia nudibranchs (or evidence of their existence) for months later (until seemingly overnight, the Aiptasia start vanishing!) It is only once the nudibranchs’ population reaches a “critical mass” point that they really make a difference.

Adult Berghia Nudibranch
Adult Berghia Nudibranch

References:

  1. Carroll, David & Kempf, Stephen, “Laboratory Culture of the Aeolid Nudibranch Berghia verrucicornis (Mollusca, Opisthobranchia): Some Aspects of Its Development and Life History,” Biological Bulletin, 1990. https://www.researchgate.net/publication/237641285_Laboratory_Culture_of_the_Aeolid_Nudibranch_Berghia_verrucicornis_Mollusca_Opisthobranchia_Some_Aspects_of_Its_Development_and_Life_History
  2. Monteiro, Estela A., et al., “Implications of feeding frequency, prey size and condition, and intraspecific competition for the commercial aquaculture of the nudibranch Berghia stephanieae,” Journal of the World Aquaculture Society, February 2020. https://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/full/10.1111/jwas.12645
  3. Aeolidiella stephanieae, Valdes, 2005,” The Sea Slug Forum, http://seaslugforum.net/find/aeolstep, accessed 21 February 2022.
  4. ReefTown, Your Source for Berghia Nudibranchs, https://reeftown.com/, accessed 21 February 2022.

Montipora-Eating Nudibranchs and Treatment

Montipora-Eating Nudibranch on Digitata Coral

Growing…growing…gone. Unfortunately, this is an all-too-common story in the reefkeeping hobby due to a pest aptly named for its favorite meal, the Montipora-Eating Nudibranch (Phestilla subodiosus). Although treatment of Montipora-Eating Nudibranchs is historically challenging, this article covers several available options.

Montipora-Eating Nudibranchs (M.E.N. – just kidding, I won’t use that acronym) are from the phylum Mollusc, class Gastropod, sub-class Opisthobranchia, order Nudibranchia. From there, they are of the suborder Aeolidina, superfamily Fionoidea, family Trinchesiidae, genus Phestilla, species subodiosus. Identification down to the species level was only accomplished as recently as 2021, although the hobby has been actively fighting them since at least the early 2000’s (Wang, et al., 2020).

How to Identify:

Montipora-Eating Nudibranch on Digitata Coral

These nudibranchs are white in color and range in size from 1-3mm in length. The body is covered in cerata, which may store the nematocysts (stinging cells) of the coral to help protect them from predators. Shown in the picture is a single Montipora-Eating Nudibranch (circled in red) at the edge of a Montipora digitata coral.

Montipora-Eating Nudibranch on Montipora Coral

The key to detection is to understand the life cycle of these nudibranchs. If there is only one nudibranch, it is capable of reproducing asexually. The adults lay tiny clusters of 3-20 eggs (Borneman, 2007) in crevices along the base of the coral (see image). As the eggs hatch, the juveniles immediately join the adults in eating the coral in a distinct jagged line along the base and edges. Reportedly, these nudibranchs can survive extended periods with no food source.

Modeling the Lifecycle of Montipora-Eating Nudibranchs

Back in grad school, I modeled the lifecycle of these nudibranchs and how various treatments worked on them. Unfortunately, the results were never promising once the nudibranchs established themselves in a mature tank. (Note: Sadly, I built this model with an educational license, and my files are “legacy file types” for the software. I have been unable to regain access to my work for either historical purposes or additional research.)

Montipora-Eating Nudibranch Treatment Options:

Treatment for the Montipora-Eating Nudibranchs comes in the forms of prevention, natural predators, chemical destruction, and manual removal.

Treatment Method 1: Prevention of Montipora-Eating Nudibranchs:

Prevention lies in purchasing from a reputable dealer or hobbyist first and foremost. Chances are, if the person has had them before, that person will have them again. Next, the responsibility falls to the new owner of the coral in proper quarantine procedures (at least two months is recommended). Examination with a magnifying glass is recommended to help identify and remove eggs. However, the nudibranchs might have laid eggs in a hidden crevice. Since the eggs are laid at the base of the coral or on dead coral skeleton, some hobbyists chose to remove the coral from the base rock. Both remaining coral on the rock and base rock then dies. This is to help ensure that the eggs are not transferred.

Treatment Method 2: Controls for Montipora-Eating Nudibranchs

Some hobbyists have found certain natural predators will help control the nudibranchs. Unfortunately there are no known complete eradication measures available naturally. The wrasses generally known to eat most invertebrates will most likely also feed on the nudibranchs. It is important to keep in mind that as far as natural predators go, what works for one hobbyist may not work for another hobbyist, especially with wild creatures.

Treatment Method 3: Coral Dips for Montipora Eating Nudibranchs

Montipora-Eating Nudibranchs

The last method of eradication is by chemical means. Coral dips often help stun the pests so they can be blown off gently with a pipette or powerhead. These adult Montipora-Eating Nudibranchs (as pictured) were in a dip much longer than the coral colony could survive. Unfortunately, that is typically the case; however, there are a few less lethal options.

Montipora-Eating Nudibranch Treatment: Iodine

Many hobbyists have found that an hour-long dip in iodine will kill most adult nudibranchs. However, this may cause undue stress to the host coral, especially if flow, pH, and temperature are not ideal in the dip.

Montipora-Eating Nudibranch Treatment: Levamisole

Levamisole (a pig dewormer available at farm supply stores), has been used in a similar manner to the iodine dip, but with a higher fatality rate to the host coral. Levamisole paralyzes the nudibranchs so they can be removed more easily from the coral.

Montipora-Eating Nudibranch Treatment: Potassium Permanganate

Another chemical method is potassium permanganate. The dip (50mg/l for 30-90 minutes – Borneman, 2007) has been shown to effectively destroy both the adults and the egg masses with moderate impact to the coral. After eradication on the corals, the main tank should be kept free of Montipora for approximately two months.

Like all chemicals, caution should be exercised when handling potassium permanganate. Using an MSDS (Material Safety Data Sheet) to learn about the hazards of use and what protective gear is highly recommended. An MSDS for potassium permanganate suggests the use of eye protection, gloves, and respiratory protection as potassium permanganate can cause serious burns to the skin, nose, and throat.

Montipora-Eating Nudibranch Treatment: Series of Dips + Manual Removal

Rather than trying to kill both adult nudibranchs and eggs, I attempt to just break the lifecycle by removing the adults so that they cannot reproduce. When I get any frags of Montipora, I perform my usual coral intake process. I perform an inspection, remove the plug/base/dead skeleton, perform dips with manual pest removal, and attach a new base. Then I place the coral into my quarantine tank, but it stays for an extended period (60 days rather than the typical 30 days).

Since a succession of coral dips work for AEFW and red bugs, I also dip all Montiporas daily the first week to aid in manual removal. After that, I dip every other day the second week, every third day the third week, and then once a week for weeks four through six. I have not lost a single coral with this method, and it saves me the hassle of treating with different medications for different parasites at different times.

Various dips may work to stun the nudibranchs, and examples include CoralRx, Revive, and Tropic Marin Pro Coral Cure. Again, here the goal is to simply aid manual removal by stunning the adults. If the adults are removed, the eggs will continue to hatch in the presence of food. Adults are then easily removed before they can reach maturation. In the lifecycle model mentioned above, this was the most successful approach when implemented correctly.

Montipora-Eating Nudibranch Treatment: Display Tank + Dips

The worst challenge is a display tank with mature colonies infested with nudibranchs. My best advice is to consider the coral dip series described above (although large colonies may require buckets for treatments). Additionally, the hobbyist would have to kill any bases left attached to the rock along with unremovable encrusted Montipora colonies. Another option, if the colonies are smaller, may be for the hobbyist to remove all Montipora from the display tank. The hobbyist would then place all removed Montipora into a quarantine tank for treatment, minus a sacrificial frag that stays in the display. The hobbyist must then frequently replace that sacrificial frag so as to draw out the nudibranchs from the rockwork.

Montipora-Eating Nudibranch Treatment: Other Dip Options

Hobbyists have used garlic and freshwater dips with nudibranch mortality but they also often report high coral mortality.

Conclusion:

Montipora-Eating Nudibranch on Montipora Coral

Although there are still no full-tank chemical treatments, eradicating Montipora Eating Nudibranch is possible with patience and proper husbandry. Using a combination of dips and manual removal seems to be the most effective option available at this time.

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