Pregnancy and Reefkeeping

[If you are experiencing a medical emergency, please contact 911 or whatever emergency service is available in your area!]

In honor of Mother’s Day this year in the United States, this post covers the considerations and risks of keeping a saltwater aquarium while becoming a
mother. Many years ago, I was pregnant with my first child, and I was appalled at the little amount of information available on pregnancy and reefkeeping. Unfortunately, as I’m reposting this article, there is still very little information. If you’re reading this post thinking, “I’m not pregnant, so I don’t care,” then at least read it for the safety of those around you. A lot of the medical risks exist regardless of pregnancy status. Hopefully my experience and referenced scientific studies will help someone! If you prefer to avoid the scares, you can skip to the bottom for recommendations.

Disclaimer: I am not a medical-related professional in any capacity. If you have a medical concern, seek help from a professional. This article is provided only for basic information and awareness.

Changes in Smell during Pregnancy

An abnormal sense of smell was reported in 76% of pregnant women in a study published by Oxford University Press.1 In early pregnancy, I was continuously nauseous. The smell of “low tide” was practically unbearable and only worsened my nausea. Water changes were particularly gut-wrenching. Later in pregnancy, the smell did not bother me as much.

Ergonomic Considerations

Water weighs approximately eight pounds per gallon (or roughly a kilogram per liter for the rest of the world). Lifting water for water changes or top-off may be excessive, depending on the health/ physical condition of the woman. I was used to carrying five gallons of water for top-off every couple of days, but later in pregnancy I was unable to safely lift that amount of weight. Talk to your doctor about how much weight is safe for you to lift.

My tank was a “tall” tank at 31″ high in addition to the 30″ stand. In order to reach into the tank, I had to use a step-stool. Medical professionals sometimes frown upon pregnant women elevating themselves due to the risk of falling. Although a small step-stool may seem like little-to-no risk, I had a non-pregnant friend fall and break her wrist while she cleaned her tank. Pregnant women may find themselves with less balance than usual due to a change in their
center of gravity and loosened ligaments.

Potential Pathogens in Reefkeeping that can Affect Pregnancy

Here’s the real problem. The scientific community knows very little about marine environments, especially how they interact with humans (let alone pregnant humans). The following information is not meant to scare anyone; it is meant to educate. As many pregnant women will attest, there is enough scary information out there (eat this, but don’t eat that; work out, but not too much; be calm, but worry about everything!) There is absolutely no way to
avoid all risks. I educated myself the best I could, and then I made the decision to continue maintaining my aquariums. My favorite part of reefkeeping is rescuing dying/diseased animals, and due to that elevated risk, I decided to stop rescuing while I was pregnant. In my opinion, there are too many known pathogens that are transmissible to humans in order to safely treat diseases while pregnant. Considering how much the scientific/medical community learns every day about pathogens, I did not want to be the first case of some bizarre new disease while pregnant.

Vibrio

For those of you who follow my rescuing endeavors, you probably know how much I hate Vibrio. It’s a gram-negative bacteria that is incredibly difficult to treat in marine animals. It often presents itself in humans as sepsis (septicemia), gastrointestinal distress, and/or open sores. This bacteria is one of the
reasons that pregnant women are told to not eat raw seafood. Some of the antibiotics most effective against Vibrio may not be safe for pregnant women, so a less-effective medication may have to be used. I use Kanamycin on my fish, and this antibiotic is known to cause hearing loss in a developing fetus. Your doctor will have to weigh the medication benefits/risks against the severity of the infection.2

Brucella

This is another gram-negative bacteria present in marine environments and is usually associated with eating raw seafood. It can cause granulomas in the brain, and it may present with symptoms similar to meningitis.3 Again, the most effective antibiotics may not be safe for pregnant women.2

Mycobacterium

This bacteria is most commonly associated with Tuberculosis, and it is transmissible from marine animals to humans. As an example, sea lions at a zoo in the Netherlands were infected with Mycobacterium, and six of their 25 handlers tested positive for the disease.4 There have been several documented cases of Mycobacterium marinum infections in reefkeepers (not pregnant), and you can see their disturbing images here.5 Additionally, the medications used to treat Tuberculosis can cross the placenta to the fetus.6

Aeromonas

The phrase, “Don’t drink the water when travelling abroad,” is often due to Aeromonas spp. bacteria. It is usually associated with gastrointestinal distress.7 Once again, the drugs required to treat the illness are not entirely safe with pregnancy.

Erysipelothrix

This is a gram-positive bacteria usually associated with animal-centric occupations (e.g., veterinarian, biologist, farmer). Usually it presents as a cutaneous lesion, and it can lead to complications.8

Others

There are many other bacteria associated with marine environments and animals known to cause disease/illness. Some of these include Edwardsiella, Salmonella, E. coli, etc.9

Bites, Stings, Poison, & Venom:

Unfortunately, this category is too large to discuss in great detail. Many simple coral stings may be easily treatable with vinegar followed by hot water, but an eel bite usually requires medical treatment with antibiotics and/or stitches. Knowing the difference between poison and venom is an important start to the discussion. Poison is defined as “a substance that through its chemical action usually kills, injures, or impairs an organism,” according to the Merriam-Webster Dictionary.10 Similarly, the dictionary defines venom as, “poisonous matter normally secreted by some animals (as snakes, scorpions, or bees) and transmitted to prey or an enemy chiefly by biting or stinging”.11 Therefore, venom is essentially poison used intentionally to cause damage.

Palytoxin

Palytoxin dangers are highly debated, but regardless of the nuances, it is still one of the most toxic poisons known. It has a “lethal dose (LD59) in mice of 0.15 microgram per kilogram by intravenous injection”.12 It is most commonly associated with palythoas (zoanthids), but it is also associated with dinoflagellates, crabs, fish, etc. (another reason why pregnant women should not eat raw seafood).13, 14, 15 There have been several human fatalities due to palytoxin (usually through ingestion of contaminated seafood). Further research determined, “its intravenous LD50 in the dog, rabbit, monkey, guinea pig, rat, and mouse range between 0.033 and 0.45 μg/kg.” This same study determined palytoxin is relatively non-toxic when administered intragastrically. It is an irritant and can cause tissue damage when applied topically.16 While most of us wouldn’t dream of injecting ourselves with palytoxic intentionally, many of us have been poked significantly with vermetid worm tubes or other sharp spines. Palytoxin is still quite toxic subcutaneously and dermally (so don’t rub a zoanthid on
yourself, get tank water in your eyes, or place an open wound into your tank).

Corals:

Corals contain nematocysts (stinging cells) on their tentacles that inject through human skin like tiny barbs. The sting from a coral may be painless, feel like an electric shock, itch like poison ivy, or even cause anaphylactic shock. For instance, fire corals inject a protein venom that causes a burning sensation (hence the name, “fire coral”).17

Other Animals:

Eels, lionfish, rabbitfish, urchins, and many other animals are known to bite, sting, or otherwise puncture. Sometimes, even the most innocuous creature will turn for the worst. I had a bicolor blenny who loved to bite me. Any open wounds, especially when caused by a marine creature, are subject to infection. Know what creatures you have in the tank that could create a wound or envenomate.

Chemicals

Many chemical products have a “Material Safety Data Sheet” (MSDS), or as it is now called, a “Safety Data Sheet” (SDS). These sheets list the ingredients, known hazards, and basic first aid information. Unfortunately, many of our aquarium products state, “proprietary blend”. Although unspecified ingredients are still required to have hazard information, there is still some risk due to unknowns (someone might be particularly sensitive to an unspecified ingredient). Pregnant women should particularly pay attention to the sections on “Teratogenic Effects” and “Developmental Effects”. These parts states what is known to cause harm to a developing baby. Since most women are unwilling to have invasive experimentation performed on their babies, there is very little information on the risks of various chemicals during pregnancy. You can find many of the common MSDS (SDS) through a simple search.

Consider looking up the following chemicals, if you use them. It is best to know the chemical manufacturer during the search, but that is certainly not always possible. I looked these all up back in 2015, and this is the information I found at that time (it may not be accurate today, but this is an example of what results may be.)

  • Calcium chloride – anhydrous (used to make calcium supplements): Teratogenic effects are not available.
  • Calcium hydroxide (kalkwasser; used to raise calcium and alkalinity): Teratogenic effects are not available.
  • Magnesium chloride (used to make magnesium supplements): Teratogenic effects are not available.
  • Magnesium sulfate (used to make magnesium supplements): Teratogenic effects are not available.
  • Sodium bicarbonate (used to make alkalinity supplements): Teratogenic effects are not available.
  • Sodium carbonate (used to make alkalinity supplements): Teratogenic effects are not available.
  • CoralRx (coral dip): Teratogenic effects are not available.
  • Bayer Advanced Insecticide (sometimes used as a coral dip): “DEVELOPMENTAL TOXICITY: In an oral developmental toxicity study in rats treated with beta-cyfluthrin, decreased fetal body weights and an increased incidence of skeletal findings were observed at the maternally toxic and lethal high dose level (40 mg/kg).”
  • Levamisole (used as a coral dip): “DEVELOPMENTAL TOXICITY: Classified Reproductive system/toxin/female [POSSIBLE].”
  • Lugol’s Iodine (used as a coral dip): Teratogenic effects are not available.
  • Red Sea Reef Foundation Test Kit (tests calcium, alkalinity, and magnesium): “Mg Reagent A contains Sodium tetraborate decahydrate, but at levels below the threshold for classification. This compound has been found to have effects on reproduction and fertility. No compounds present in the reagents have been identified as having carcinogenic, mutagenic properties.”

Recommendations for a Pregnancy and Reefkeeping:

You can significantly reduce your risks to the pregnancy while reefkeeping by avoiding aquarium maintenance. However, if you decide to continue caring for aquariums, then I recommend speaking with a medical professional, considering the following the subsequent advice, and continuously re-evaluating your risk tolerance. Be honest and up-front with your doctor, and take the provided medical advice seriously. Wear gloves and other personal protective equipment as much as possible. Less exposed skin is better.

If you are fragging, then also wear eye protection (a face mask and face shield are advisable as well). Limit lifting, climbing, or other strenuous activity, especially if your doctor recommends against it. After aquarium maintenance, wash every exposed body part with hot water (as hot as is safe) and soap. Scrub thoroughly. Do not touch your face before you wash. Also, please do not eat, drink, or smoke while performing aquarium maintenance (or smoke at all while pregnant). This will help limit ingestion of poisons/bacteria.

Be familiar in first aid, and have those in your household also become familiar in first aid. For any injuries, contact medical personnel. Typical treatment for most aquarium stings/bites/etc. is to soak the area in vinegar for about 15 minutes, followed by a soak in hot water (as hot as you can safely withstand without burns) for about 30-90 minutes. The vinegar will help dissolve the nematocysts and prevent them from further discharging. Many poisons/venoms are broken down by heat (although some are intensified with heat, so contact medical personnel!)18 If you develop any rashes, lesions, or develop odd symptoms (loss of vision, heart palpitations, wheezing, numbness, etc.), then also contact medical personnel immediately!

Stay up to date on your immunizations (particularly tetanus if you plan to continue reefkeeping). Make a list of your aquarium inhabitants and potential exposures, and provide this to your doctor. I also kept a list of these things along with other relevant medical information in my purse. Sometimes medical issues will surface long after the initial exposure, so it’s important to have the information written in case you are unable to relay potential exposure information. After the baby is born, make sure the aquarium area is baby-proofed. Curious little hands will find every hazard!

Conclusion on Pregnancy and Reefkeeping:

Although I continued to perform aquarium maintenance, I stopped rescuing coral/fish due to the increased risks. I experienced no aquarium-related injuries and had a healthy baby. Although this is not a comprehensive list of marine hazards to a developing baby and its mother, hopefully it is an educational start. Reduce the risks where possible, and if you must accept some risk, be prepared on how to handle it. Good luck! If you can think of other hazards, let me know in the comments!

References:

Note: These references are now quite dated; the links may not work and/or the information may be superceded. Please review the latest studies and speak with your medical professional.

  1. Nordin, Steven, et al. “A Longitudinal Descriptive Study of Self-reported Abnormal Smell and Taste Perception in Pregnant Women.” Chemical Senses (2004) 29 (5): 391–402.
  2. Norwitz ER, Greenberg JA. “Antibiotics in Pregnancy: Are They Safe?” Reviews in Obstetrics and Gynecology. 2009;2(3):135-136.
  3. Sohn AH, Probert WS, Glaser CA, et al. “Human Neurobrucellosis with Intracerebral Granuloma Caused by a Marine Mammal Brucella spp.” Emerging Infectious Diseases. 2003;9(4):485-488.
  4. Hu, G, et al. “Meta- and Pooled Analyses of the Effect of Glutathione S-transferase M1 and T1 Deficiency on Chronic Obstructive Pulmonary Disease.” The International Journal of Tuberculosis and Lung Disease 12, no 12, December 2008, 1474-1481.
  5. Pro, Steven. “Mycobacterium marinum: The Fish Disease You Could Catch”, Reefkeeping, 2003, http://www.reefkeeping.com/issues/2003-07/sp/feature/.
  6. Centers for Disease Control and Prevention, http://www.cdc.gov/tb/publications/factsheets/specpop/pregnancy.htm, accessed 2 May 2015.
  7. Vila J, Ruiz J, Gallardo F, Vargas M, Soler L, Figueras MJ, et al. “Aeromonas spp. and traveler’s diarrhea: clinical features and antimicrobial resistance.” Emerg Infect Dis [serial
    online] 2003 May [date cited].
  8. Reboli, A C, and W E Farrar. “Erysipelothrix Rhusiopathiae: An Occupational Pathogen.” Clinical Microbiology Reviews 2.4 (1989): 354–359. Print.
  9. Clarridge, J E et al. “Extraintestinal Human Infection Caused by Edwardsiella Tarda.” Journal of Clinical Microbiology 11.5 (1980): 511–514. Print.
  10. “Poison,” http://www.merriam-webster.com/dictionary/poison, accessed 10 May 2015.
  11. “Venom,” http://www.merriam-webster.com/dictionary/venom, accessed 10 May 2015.
  12. Richard E. Moore and Paul J. Scheuer, “Palytoxin: A New Marine Toxin from a Coelenterate,” Science, 30 April 1971: 172 (3982), 495–498.
  13. Arthur M. Kodama, Yoshitsugi Hokama, Takeshi Yasumoto, Masakazu Fukui, Sally Jo Manea, Neal Sutherland, “Clinical and laboratory findings implicating palytoxin as cause of ciguatera poisoning due to Decapterus macrosoma (mackerel),” Toxicon, Volume 27, Issue 9, 1989, Pages 1051-1053.
  14. Angel C. Alcala, Lawton C. Alcala, John S. Garth, Daisuke Yasumura, Takeshi Yasumoto, “Human fatality due to ingestion of the crab Demania reynaudii that contained a palytoxin-like toxin,” Toxicon, Volume 26, Issue 1, 1988, Pages 105-107.
  15. Yutaka Onuma, Masayuki Satake, Takanori Ukena, Jean Roux, Suzanne Chanteau, Noelson Rasolofonirina, Mamy Ratsimaloto, Hideo Naoki, Takeshi Yasumoto, “Identification of putative palytoxin as the cause of clupeotoxism,” Toxicon, Volume 37, Issue 1, January 1999, Pages 55-65.
  16. J.S. Wiles, J.A. Vick, M.K. Christensen, “Toxicological evaluation of palytoxin in several animal species,” Toxicon, Volume 12, Issue 4, August 1974, Pages 427-433.
  17. Eric Borneman, “Venomous Corals: The Fire Corals,” Reefkeeping, November 2002. http://reefkeeping.com/issues/2002-11/eb/
  18. “Marine Animal Bites or Stings,” http://www.nlm.nih.gov/medlineplus/ency/article/000032.htm, accessed 10 May 2015.

Successfully Moving a Reef Aquarium

Shipping Fish

Just moving an aquarium, reef or not, from one side of a room to the other can be extremely stressful or even catastrophic to the aquarium inhabitants.  But what about moving a 150 gallon SPS-dominant aquarium 2000 miles across the country??  Oh yeah, we successfully moved our reef aquarium across the country, and then we did it again two more times after that. Several of our coral have lived in four different states and survived the three associated moves. This is how we did it one of those times, along with tips and lessons learned. Each time we’ve moved, we’ve learned more, so as every move will be very different, doing homework to prepare is essential.

Moving a Reef Aquarium Homework:

Well before moving the tank, I started doing some homework. Our move was across the country; however, a move across the room, up several floors to a new apartment, or across town to a new home could have similarities.

Temporary Holding Tub for Corals

Before this move, we previously moved a smaller aquarium across the room. In that scenario, I just set up a huge tub with saltwater, a powerhead, and a heater.  Easy. (Note the tub bowing; this was not a long-term solution!)

T-7 (or so) Days to the Move:

First, I needed to figure out the best transportation plan. For such a long distance, I could ship everything, or I could put everything into cargo on an airline flight. There were substantial benefits and risks with the various options. I went with a hybrid solution to balance speed with cost.

Next, I estimated my time backwards. I had to get everything to the post office and an airline to ship before they all closed, so I gave myself a two-hour margin from the worst-case scenario.  I absolutely did not want to be holding a box of my babies while standing in front of a “Closed” sign, and even then, I barely made it.

To Do List (definitely not all-inclusive):

  • Driving to the shipping location(s), waiting in line, etc.
  • Driving to and having the local fish store add oxygen to fish bags (if available)
  • Physically moving stands, tanks, and equipment
  • Disassembling equipment and cleaning
  • Draining the aquariums
  • Removing rocks and letting them drain (they can take forever to drain)
  • Removing sand (grab a wet-vac!)
  • Catching and bagging fish
  • Removing and bagging coral
  • Catching all the little snails, crabs, etc.
  • Getting supplies (see below for a suggested list)
  • Extra time for some tears after accidentally breaking that gorgeous, huge, coral colony…
  • Margin for things to go wrong (Murphy’s Law)

T-2 Days to the Move:

I stopped feeding my fish for about two days prior to the move.  This caused them to produce less waste during shipping (which could otherwise lead to deadly ammonia).  They were healthy, so I was not worried (and the fish likely found some pods or algae in the tank on which to munch in the interim).

The Big Day – Moving Time:

Moving Supplies:

  • Fragging supplies:
    • Bone cutters of various sizes
    • Hammer (for those big pieces attached to rock)
    • Chisel (to go with the hammer)
    • Safety equipment (gloves, safety glasses, etc.)
    • Super glue for any fragging accidents
    • Tongs
  • Preparation supplies (especially for a local move):
    • Buckets
    • Tubs
    • Heaters
    • Battery-powered air pumps
  • Shipping/Moving supplies:
    • Thick, insulated boxes (with a surrounding bag to catch water)
    • Packing tape
    • Extra-thick plastic bags
    • Rubber bands
    • Newspaper
    • Heating/cooling packs
    • Glass suction cups, crating, blankets, etc.
  • Cleaning supplies:
    • Towels (lots and lots!)
    • Floor-protection sheeting (e.g., plastic sheets, drop cloths)
    • Extra-thick bags and/or well-sealing containers
    • Pipette or a turkey baster
    • Siphon and tubing to drain the water
    • Febreeze or other good smelly stuff
    • Wet-Vac
  • Other supplies:
    • Permanent marker
    • Scissors
Aquarium Moving Supplies
Aquarium Moving Supplies

Getting Started:

Personally and Emotionally:

First up… I grabbed coffee… lots of it… (I needed a good kick-in-the-pants to get going).  Here, I chose a lovely three cups of iced black coffee (ok, you’re allowed to say “ew”).  I also had some easy-prep food available. Pizza is good for this, especially as a bribe for friends to help. If you’re tackling this project, your friends are going to remember this day for a long time. Treat them well.

Overall System:

Aquarium Parameters on Controller Display

Before starting, I made note of what the aquarium parameters were.  There’s no point in shipping fish or corals that are in bad water already.  I corrected all incorrect parameters before bagging the coral and fish. (And no, I no longer use an AquaController. This is an older photo, but the point is still the same!)

Livestock:

Corals Attached to Rock

After gathering all the supplies, I took a deep breath.  It was time for the real work.  I put on all safety gear needed.  Then, I started with the coral to bag and box, as they are likely to last the longest out of the aquarium.  Soft corals came out first, then LPS, then SPS corals.  Often it’s easier to remove the entire rock in order to break the corals off.

Labeled Bag with Acropora Coral

I placed each coral in a labeled bag with tank water.  I recommend labeling the bags with the name of the coral as many corals will “brown out” during shipping and become hard to identify.

Live Rock Draining for the Move

Next, I set up a few large containers.  As I pull out the rocks to let them drain, I pick off the snails and crabs and place them separately in bags for shipping.

Shipping Fish

Once the corals and rocks were out of the aquarium, the fish were rather easy to catch.  I bagged them in two to three 3-mil bags, size dependent on the size and energy of the fish (see one of the lessons-learned at the end) and taped temperature-regulating packs to the top of the cooler.  I also had oxygen added to the bags by my LFS.  If you are not comfortable with bagging fish, speak to the experts at a LFS that you trust.  They should be able to guide you on your fish needs and may even bag them properly for you.

Aquarium Livestock Shipping Box

After the corals, fish, and inverts are bagged, tagged, and ready to go, I placed them in the box.  I added the lid (ensuring the temperature-regulating packs were adequate and secured to the top of the box) and taped it shut.  Then, I secured the bag around the box to prevent any water leaks from damaging the outer box.  Next, I taped the outer box shut.  The box was quite heavy from all the water, so I had to be cautious.  Before delivering the box to the shipper, I doubled-checked to make sure someone was available to receive the shipment at the appropriate time.

Shipping Live Rock

Once I returned to the aquarium after all livestock was safely on the way, the rocks were adequately drained.  I placed them in insulated boxes and surrounded them with wet butcher paper (unwaxed).  I’ve used wet newspaper, but it tends to fall apart too easily.  It’s not much fun to pick out wet paper from rock.  Obviously, if the rocks need to be shipped with the fish/corals, then do that but in a separate box.  Also, the rocks can usually be shipped a slower route (i.e., cheaper route) as die-off will not be as severe, especially if they are kept damp.

To ensure I didn’t miss some livestock, I double-checked everywhere for any remaining. Next, I started draining the water. This is usually a slow process, but using a pump can help speed it up.  Make sure to turn off and/or disconnect all devices that may have issues with low water (e.g., heaters, powerheads).

When moving an aquarium, I absolutely do not reuse sand.  It causes more problems than it is worth; saving a few dollars here is just not worth the risk, in my opinion.  Used sand usually contains so much microfauna that massive die-off is next-to-impossible to prevent, despite thorough washing.  If I absolutely need to be frugal, then instead of throwing it away, I rinse it out well (which is beyond time-consuming and gross) and let it dry while spread out in the sun.  I reuse it in a future aquarium, but not in the one I’m immediately setting back up. I use all new, dry sand to prevent problems in the new setup. 

Equipment:

Of course, I turned off all electrical equipment before removal and then gave it a good, thorough cleaning in a hot water and vinegar mixture for a few hours. With a little elbow grease, most coralline algae and other detritus comes off with no issues. Once cleaned, rinsed, and dried, I used electrical cable ties to tidy up the equipment before getting packed. I also keep and reuse the original manufacturer boxes for the weird or expensive components, such as light fixtures, Vortech powerheads, etc.

Probes:

Generally, I don’t reuse pH probes during a move, but that’s only because they’re typically due for replacement by then anyway. If you have pH probes that you plan to reuse, you’ll want to keep them capped with fluid and then have extra calibration fluid on hand to calibrate them after the move.  Some other probes require submersion and/or capping during transportation, so consult the manufacturer’s instructions.

Lighting:

I usually remove light bulbs from fixtures and pack them separately, but I seem to have about the same breakage rate whether they’re in the fixture or packed separately. Thankfully this is much less of a problem with LED lighting fixtures.

Tank/Stand:

Moving the tank/stand can be physically exhausting and dangerous if not done correctly.  I made sure to have more than enough people to help move (this is size/weight dependent on the tank/stand).  I taped all doors shut so they didn’t open during the move. Since my stand had delicate pieces (fancy trim work), I used painters tape to mark off that section and wrote something like, “Do not lift here.”  Unfortunately, that did not prevent people from lifting from that area, so I had to make multiple repairs after the move.

Then, the stands were wrapped in moving blankets since they were large.  Our aquarium was professionally crated in a plywood crate the company made on site.  This is not necessarily a requirement, but it was what our moving company required.

Reassembly after Successfully Moving:

Reassembly depends on the length of the move.  For our move across the country, I was in Ohio packing and shipping everything.  My husband was already in Utah with our new house.  He set up a very… sketchy… 40 gallon breeder “holding tank.”  He cycled some rock and sand before I shipped the corals/fish out to him.  He picked up the boxes at the airport, brought them to the new tank, and acclimated them.  When the equipment arrived with the moving company a few weeks later, we set the tank back up and started moving things over.

Lessons Learned from Moving a Reef Aquarium:

  • There is never enough time.  If you plan for 8 hours, it’ll take 16.
  • Don’t ship in extreme weather, if avoidable.  We shipped in the middle of a heatwave and lost some things.
  • Some cargo companies have live animal shipping insurance.  Consider it seriously.  It’s often 1%, depending on the company. 
  • Very large, active fish (especially those with sharp areas) may need substantially thicker bags. Otherwise, they may puncture the bag.
  • Things happen.  Our cargo company lost our box, and it took four days to arrive in Utah.  We lost a few corals and a purple tang (hence insurance).  No amount of preparation will fix that, but accepting the risks can help emotionally.
Bagging Corals
Bagging Corals

DIY Frag Kit

DIY Frag Kit

Do you have a special reefkeeper in your life that deserves a handmade-with-love gift? Or… more realistically… it may just be a present to yourself. This simple project only takes a few minutes to put together and organizes your basic frag supplies in a neat kit.

DIY Frag Kit
DIY Frag Kit

I’d like to thank my very dear friend, Kevin, for the idea. He gave it to me as a present many years ago (which I still have), and what a wonderful present it was! I previously had a “frag box”… a small tote that held everything haphazardly… and left me subject to getting a scalpel stab while searching for super glue. This new, handy tote is rather inexpensive, and it keeps everything well-organized.

Supply List:

What supplies you use is totally up to you! But, this is a handy list just to get you started. Other ideas are in the links below.

Organizer Box:

First up is the container. Mine was from Harbor Freight (a U.S.-based hardware store), but you could always use fishing tackle boxes, craft organizers, etc. This option is similar: Organizer Box (~$15 USD)

DIY Frag Kit Container
DIY Frag Kit Container

Frag Cutters:

A frag kit wouldn’t be complete without some way to frag, so I highly recommend some “Bone Cutters” or heavy duty Toenail Clippers (ok, I’ll wait while you make a silly face over that one.) But seriously, I love the Toenail Clippers, as they’re just the right size for my hands, and they’re less than $7 USD (They also lasted me 14 years, previously)! Specialty aquarium stores typically sell larger ones that are great for cutting really thick frags. They also come in powder-coated versions for longer life. I have a pair of the powder-coated ones, and while they’re beautiful, I still like my $7 set better.

Toenail Clippers
Toenail Clippers

Frag Plugs

Since this is a frag kit, Frag Plugs are always a good idea (unless you have several hundred frag plugs already on hand as I do.) I keep my frag plugs in separate containers, organized by size; however, I do keep a few plugs in the kit just in case I need a few quickly.

Frag Plugs
Frag Plugs

Super Glue

Of course, to go along with the cutters and plugs, super glue is a must-have. Super Glue Gel is typically the go-to choice, but coral epoxies and specialty glues are great as well. Before the “dollar stores” became the “$1.25 and up” stores with even less product, I used to buy all of my glue there (in bulk, dozens at a time, which earned me some strange looks). Nowadays, some of the bulk buys on Amazon aren’t too bad.

Super Glue Gel
Super Glue Gel

Bridal Veil Fabric

If you’re fragging soft corals, like mushrooms, you may want to consider having some bridal veil fabric on hand. This is really useful to put over the coral so that it doesn’t float away in the current.

Bridal Veil Fabric
Bridal Veil Fabric

Rubber Bands

Rubber bands are helpful to tie down Xenia or other leather corals to the frag plugs. It is also an easy way to secure the bridal veil, mentioned above, to the frag plug.

Rubber Bands
Rubber Bands

Dipping Supplies:

I also use my “frag kit” as a “coral dip kit,” so I have other items in it. I, personally, keep my scalpel separate since I don’t have a cover for it (they’re meant to be disposable, but I keep mine), and I really prefer to not cut myself. If you decide to keep a scalpel knife in the box, please either cover it, or use disposable blades.

I also like a dental pick kit, like these on Amazon (although I got mine from Harbor Freight). They’re great for getting muck out of tiny crevices, knocking of eggs, etc.

Dental Pick Kit
Dental Pick Kit

Pipettes are always handy to have around, including for various household purposes. I end up buying them in bulk every few years. Typically I use them for dipping and feeding corals, but also for cleaning the rock work.

Pipettes
Pipettes

Flashlight:

I keep an LED light handy in the kit to help inspect corals when I get them. Although it’s not pictured, I do use a UV light, like this one, to help look for pests and other problems.

Flashlight
Flashlight

Other Odds and Ends:

I also keep random items that don’t fit elsewhere in my kit, such as measuring spoons (e.g., tablespoon, teaspoon) and this plastic scraper made for cleaning kitchen pans. It actually does a great job cleaning algae off aquarium equipment (especially off acrylic surfaces).

Pan Scraper
Pan Scraper

Safety Equipment:

And, of course, no kit is ever complete without some sort of safety equipment. I keep a pair of gloves in my kit, and my safety glasses and fragging face shield aren’t far away. If you’re looking for gloves, I recommend powder-free nitrile gloves. Latex is ok (as long as you aren’t allergic), but they aren’t quite as puncture-resistant. I have to admit, I’m not sure of the material of the gloves shown.

Gloves
Gloves

Conclusion:

If it wasn’t obvious, just place all of the items neatly in the container, close it up, and voila, it’s an awesome gift! Ok, you might want to add a bow on top.

Depending on the items, this kit could range $30 – $50 USD. If this is a self-present, and your significant other balks at the price, just remind him/ her about how clean it will help you keep your workspace! Of course, you could always start small and just add the items as you go.

If you have other recommendations, post them up in the comments below!

Happy reefing!

Berghia Nudibranchs: Natural Aiptasia Predators

Berghia Nudibranchs Eating an Aiptasia Anemone

Not only are “Berghia Nudibranchs” (Aeolidiella stephanieae) elegant, with their glowing blue-white cerata, but they are also amazing natural Aiptasia anemone predators. Originating from the Florida Keys, once introduced to an Aiptasia-infested aquarium, the nudibranchs band together at night to hunt and take down the anemones, one-by-one. At first, this is a slow process, but the nudibranchs reproduce quickly enough to out-compete the anemones. Understanding a few key concepts on the nudibranch’s lifecycle, natural predators to avoid, and basic care may help eradicate Aiptasia from an aquarium.

Berghia Nudibranchs Eating an Aiptasia Anemone
Berghia Nudibranchs Eating an Aiptasia Anemone

Lifecycle of Berghia Nudibranchs:

Egg Development:

Berghia Nudibranch Egg Spiral Mass

Mature nudibranchs (about five to seven weeks old) lay egg masses in beautiful spirals with less than 100 eggs initially to more than 250, approximately every four days. As the nudibranchs mature, they lay more eggs per mass, more frequently. I currently have one pair that returns to the same place in the aquarium every two nights to lay eggs together (they appear uninterested in the other nudibranchs, which may be due to their extra-large size).

Berghia Nudibranch Egg

Egg development occurs over the course of about 12 days, as shown in the photos below.

Metamorphosis:

Newly Hatched Berghia Nudibranch

This short stage (approximately one-to-three days) of Berghia nudibranch development is my favorite. The nudibranchs hatch into these rice-shaped fluorescent blue larvae, which look very similar to their adult cerata. I was collecting some adults one day, when I saw these floating on the underside of the surface of the water. They tend to float upward and stay until metamorphosis is complete, which may make them a target for fish to eat.

Juvenile Berghia Nudibranchs:

Juvenile and Larval Berghia Nudibranchs

This photo shows a larval Berghia Nudibranch, along with a juvenile (a week or two old post-hatching). After metamorphosis, the juveniles settle back into the rocks to begin hunting Aiptasia. As they are extremely small, they tend to attack only the smallest anemones, likely to avoid being eaten.

Adult Berghia Nudibranchs

Berghia Nudibranchs and Aiptasia Anemone

Similar to the juvenile nudibranchs, the adults band together to hunt anemones, but as they grow, they are able to prey on larger anemones. A well-fed nudibranch will take on the brown coloration, as shown, from ingesting and retaining the anemones’ zooxanthallae.

Hunting in groups, along with their hermaphroditic nature, typically provides plenty of mating opportunities. With egg masses over 100 laid every few days, the population can quickly outpace the food source (the nudibranchs can starve in around five days without food). Provided with enough food and protection, the nudibranchs will live approximately 10-12 months. However, Berghia Nudibranchs do face several threats in the home aquarium.

Aquarium Husbandry:

General Information:

Berghia Nudibranchs and Aiptasia Anemone

Unfortunately, Berghia Nudibranchs are not as tolerant of poor water conditions as Aiptasia; they require stable parameters within natural saltwater conditions. Additionally, they are prey for a variety of wrasses (but thankfully the nudibranchs’ nocturnal nature helps protect them), and the egg masses and juveniles are prey for amphipods. Even Aiptasia will eat the nudibranchs if they are lucky enough to catch one.

Selection:

Typically, for a moderate Aiptasia infestation, one Berghia per 10-gallons is recommended (see the table below). However, since Berghia nudibranchs hunt in groups and need to reproduce, never introduce less than three, regardless of tank size. For example, three nudibranchs would be an appropriate number for a 30-gallon aquarium, a 10-gallon aquarium, and also a 1-gallon aquarium. Even then, it is best to overestimate to ensure the nudibranchs can find each other to breed. In other words, if the tank size falls between the recommended quantities below, round up.

Size also matters. While smaller nudibranchs cost less, they also may not reproduce for a few more weeks. They are also less able to attack larger Aiptasia or withstand high-flow aquariums (e.g., SPS-dominant). In tanks with high flow, larger predators, heavy infestations, and/or large Aiptasia, mature adults are best. For low-flow tanks with light Aiptasia infestations, a mixture of medium and small nudibranchs may work best.

Tank SizeInitial Berghia Nudibranchs*
1-gallon3 Medium Nudibranchs
10-gallons3 Medium Nudibranchs
30-gallons3 Medium Nudibranchs
40-gallons4 Medium Nudibranchs
75-gallons8 Medium Nudibranchs
90-gallons9 Medium Nudibranchs
120-gallons12 Medium Nudibranchs
150-gallons15 Medium Nudibranchs
300-gallons30 Medium Nudibranchs
Recommended Berghia Nudibranch Starting Populations (*for medium flow, moderate-infestation tanks)

[NOTE: If you are looking for a source of Berghia Nudibranchs, please see Reference #4 at the end of this article for a potential source. This page is not currently affiliated with any nudibranch vendors.]

Introduction into the Aquarium:

Adult Berghia Nudibranchs

If the nudibranchs were shipped, they are likely more white colored due to a lack of food. And, depending on the temperature conditions during shipping, they may appear quite sluggish. They likely came in a jar, similar to the one shown here. Never place this jar to float in the tank for acclimation, as the jar’s motion may tumble the nudibranchs. Instead, slowly remove the jar’s water, while adding the same amount of tank water back into the jar, over the course of about 30 minutes to an hour. This will enable the nudibranchs to adjust to the tank while minimizing injury. Next, turn off all flow in the tank, and if there are predator fish, wait until the lights go off.

Place the jar in the rocks (not on the sand) near (but not on) some Aiptasia anemones. Allow the nudibranchs to crawl out naturally on their own. If they are sluggish or the flow needs to be restored to the tank, use a pipette with the end cut off to gently baste them out of the jar.

Final Thoughts and Conclusion:

It’s important to remember that nudibranchs are only a natural control, not a cure; they cannot reach every place Aiptasia may infest. After tank introduction, it is common to not see the Berghia nudibranchs (or evidence of their existence) for months later (until seemingly overnight, the Aiptasia start vanishing!) It is only once the nudibranchs’ population reaches a “critical mass” point that they really make a difference.

Adult Berghia Nudibranch
Adult Berghia Nudibranch

References:

  1. Carroll, David & Kempf, Stephen, “Laboratory Culture of the Aeolid Nudibranch Berghia verrucicornis (Mollusca, Opisthobranchia): Some Aspects of Its Development and Life History,” Biological Bulletin, 1990. https://www.researchgate.net/publication/237641285_Laboratory_Culture_of_the_Aeolid_Nudibranch_Berghia_verrucicornis_Mollusca_Opisthobranchia_Some_Aspects_of_Its_Development_and_Life_History
  2. Monteiro, Estela A., et al., “Implications of feeding frequency, prey size and condition, and intraspecific competition for the commercial aquaculture of the nudibranch Berghia stephanieae,” Journal of the World Aquaculture Society, February 2020. https://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/full/10.1111/jwas.12645
  3. Aeolidiella stephanieae, Valdes, 2005,” The Sea Slug Forum, http://seaslugforum.net/find/aeolstep, accessed 21 February 2022.
  4. ReefTown, Your Source for Berghia Nudibranchs, https://reeftown.com/, accessed 21 February 2022.

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