Sure, blowing a coral with a pipette while it sits for 10+ minutes in a dip works. So does blasting it with a powerhead. But… I’m a nerd, and nerds must always over-engineer every problem (or non-problem). This project was the result of trying to find the end of the internet one night while researching new 3D printing ideas. I was inspired by ChickenHaunt’s Resin Wash Station over at Thingiverse. With only a minor tweak, I now have an amazing Coral Wash Station! Enjoy “turning it up to 11” with this magnetic stirrer.
Supplies List:
This is a list of what I actually used to build my magnetic stirrer coral dip station, along with estimated prices as of the published date. I’ve included links to the products and 3D print files (please note, as an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases. I get commissions for purchases made through links in this post.) While other stirrers and containers will still make a nice coral dip station, they may not work with the 3D print file. Therefore, I highly recommend this list since it is all most likely to work well together. I also recommend fluorescent filament for the print file, since the setup will likely be near a reef aquarium (so the filament will glow!) At the end of this post, I’ve included more details about the supplies, along with some other options.
- Intllab Magnetic Stirrer: ~$30 USD
- 3D-printed Rack with fluorescent filament: ~$3 USD, if printing yourself
- Magnetic Rods with Retrieval Rod: ~$17 USD
- Sistema KLIP IT Lunch Plus Storage Containers: ~$9 USD (recommend getting two sets – or more if you do a lot of dipping)
Coral Dip Station Instructions:
Step 1: Prepare the Magnetic Stirrer
First, I started with the Intllab Magnetic Stirrer. This is a simple stirrer that does not have a heating option (not necessary for how short coral dips are). Now, if you wanted a coral bath option, I recommend considering a heated magnetic stirrer (but the cost is much greater).
One of the most important qualities of this stirrer is the 316 stainless steel plate due to the corrosive nature of saltwater. (Note: this metal is corrosion-resistant against saltwater, not corrosion-proof. Try to keep the stirrer as clean as possible for the longest life.)
Step 2: Prepare for 3D Printing
My 3D printer is a Creality Ender 3 Pro, which is a “best value” printer in my opinion. The fluorescent green filament I used for the stirrer tank surround is in the storage tub on the left. The black filament used for the rack is on the right.
Step 3: Print and Build
I followed ChickenHaunt’s instructions for the printing and assembly, but there are a few remixes out there on Thingiverse too. Here are a few things I liked/didn’t like along with tips:
- – Use solvent weld to assemble everything rather than hot glue and/or super glue
- – Assemble the components on the stirrer before gluing; otherwise they may not fit (including the magnetic stirrer and the storage container)
- – The strainer platform is quite flimsy
I added a sticker with the infamous quote, “Turn it up to 11!” from the movie, Spinal Tap. There’s no “11” on here, but most of the time I turn the stirrer up to the 4th blue bar. Use trial and error to see what works best for your corals and setup.
Step 4: Add Parts
Once printing and assembly is complete, add the dip container. It should fit snugly into the surround. Of course, the larger containers that ChickenHaunt used would work great for larger corals (but those containers can be difficult to find. I like these smaller ones for frags and small colonies.) Add a magnetic stirrer rod.
Note: The magnetic stirrer kit I recommended includes a retrieval rod. Personally, I try to keep my hands out of coral dip as much as possible for safety. The retrieval rod will pick up the magnetic stirrer rod, thus helping to prevent skin contact with the coral dip. There are additional options at the end of the post.
Now, add the strainer platform with handle. The platform is very flimsy, so whenever I lift out corals, I have to support the handle’s opposite corner. A platform remix would likely fix this, but this still works fine.
Step 5: Test it Out!
Now, just add tank water and medication of choice. Plug in and turn on the magnetic stirrer. I usually turn the knob to the fourth blue bar. Once the medication is adequately dispersed, add in the corals and set a timer for the appropriate dip length.
No more pipette blowing or giant powerhead necessary!
Inspect the corals for damage and health (if you need a primer, check out Assessing Coral Health).
About a minute before the dip time is up, I turn off the magnetic stirrer. This allows the gunk to settle to the bottom. Once the time is up, carefully lift the platform out of the solution (using additional support as necessary).
I have six of these storage containers, as I typically have a three-dip process. Then, I use a fourth container for plain tank water to rinse the corals.
Magnetic Stirrer Coral Dip Station Conclusion:
When I first built this magnetic stirrer coral dip station, of course I was excited. But I had no idea how much it would transform my dip successes. The small footprint combined with the fast water movement made dips easier and more effective.
Additional Supplies Info:
NOTE: As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases. I get commissions for purchases made through links in this post.
INTLLAB Magnetic Stirrer w/ stir bar set & retriever INTLLAB Magnetic Stirrer Fluorescent PLA filament Magnetic Stirrer Mixer Stir Bar and Retriever Sistema KLIP IT Lunch Plus Storage Containers Creality Ender 3 Pro 3D Printer Coral Dip
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