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Pregnancy and Reefkeeping

reefdup DIY May 15, 2023May 15, 2023aquarium, Bites, Chemicals, Ergonomics, pathogens, poison, Pregnancy, Reefkeeping, Safety, Smell, Stings, Venom, Vibrio 0 Comment

[If you are experiencing a medical emergency, please contact 911 or whatever emergency service is available in your area!]

In honor of Mother’s Day this year in the United States, this post covers the considerations and risks of keeping a saltwater aquarium while becoming a
mother. Many years ago, I was pregnant with my first child, and I was appalled at the little amount of information available on pregnancy and reefkeeping. Unfortunately, as I’m reposting this article, there is still very little information. If you’re reading this post thinking, “I’m not pregnant, so I don’t care,” then at least read it for the safety of those around you. A lot of the medical risks exist regardless of pregnancy status. Hopefully my experience and referenced scientific studies will help someone! If you prefer to avoid the scares, you can skip to the bottom for recommendations.

Disclaimer: I am not a medical-related professional in any capacity. If you have a medical concern, seek help from a professional. This article is provided only for basic information and awareness.

Changes in Smell during Pregnancy

An abnormal sense of smell was reported in 76% of pregnant women in a study published by Oxford University Press.¹ In early pregnancy, I was continuously nauseous. The smell of “low tide” was practically unbearable and only worsened my nausea. Water changes were particularly gut-wrenching. Later in pregnancy, the smell did not bother me as much.

Ergonomic Considerations

Water weighs approximately eight pounds per gallon (or roughly a kilogram per liter for the rest of the world). Lifting water for water changes or top-off may be excessive, depending on the health/ physical condition of the woman. I was used to carrying five gallons of water for top-off every couple of days, but later in pregnancy I was unable to safely lift that amount of weight. Talk to your doctor about how much weight is safe for you to lift.

My tank was a “tall” tank at 31″ high in addition to the 30″ stand. In order to reach into the tank, I had to use a step-stool. Medical professionals sometimes frown upon pregnant women elevating themselves due to the risk of falling. Although a small step-stool may seem like little-to-no risk, I had a non-pregnant friend fall and break her wrist while she cleaned her tank. Pregnant women may find themselves with less balance than usual due to a change in their
center of gravity and loosened ligaments.

Potential Pathogens in Reefkeeping that can Affect Pregnancy

Here’s the real problem. The scientific community knows very little about marine environments, especially how they interact with humans (let alone pregnant humans). The following information is not meant to scare anyone; it is meant to educate. As many pregnant women will attest, there is enough scary information out there (eat this, but don’t eat that; work out, but not too much; be calm, but worry about everything!) There is absolutely no way to
avoid all risks. I educated myself the best I could, and then I made the decision to continue maintaining my aquariums. My favorite part of reefkeeping is rescuing dying/diseased animals, and due to that elevated risk, I decided to stop rescuing while I was pregnant. In my opinion, there are too many known pathogens that are transmissible to humans in order to safely treat diseases while pregnant. Considering how much the scientific/medical community learns every day about pathogens, I did not want to be the first case of some bizarre new disease while pregnant.

Vibrio

For those of you who follow my rescuing endeavors, you probably know how much I hate Vibrio. It’s a gram-negative bacteria that is incredibly difficult to treat in marine animals. It often presents itself in humans as sepsis (septicemia), gastrointestinal distress, and/or open sores. This bacteria is one of the
reasons that pregnant women are told to not eat raw seafood. Some of the antibiotics most effective against Vibrio may not be safe for pregnant women, so a less-effective medication may have to be used. I use Kanamycin on my fish, and this antibiotic is known to cause hearing loss in a developing fetus. Your doctor will have to weigh the medication benefits/risks against the severity of the infection.²

Brucella

This is another gram-negative bacteria present in marine environments and is usually associated with eating raw seafood. It can cause granulomas in the brain, and it may present with symptoms similar to meningitis.³ Again, the most effective antibiotics may not be safe for pregnant women.²

Mycobacterium

This bacteria is most commonly associated with Tuberculosis, and it is transmissible from marine animals to humans. As an example, sea lions at a zoo in the Netherlands were infected with Mycobacterium, and six of their 25 handlers tested positive for the disease.⁴ There have been several documented cases of Mycobacterium marinum infections in reefkeepers (not pregnant), and you can see their disturbing images here.⁵ Additionally, the medications used to treat Tuberculosis can cross the placenta to the fetus.⁶

Aeromonas

The phrase, “Don’t drink the water when travelling abroad,” is often due to Aeromonas spp. bacteria. It is usually associated with gastrointestinal distress.⁷ Once again, the drugs required to treat the illness are not entirely safe with pregnancy.

Erysipelothrix

This is a gram-positive bacteria usually associated with animal-centric occupations (e.g., veterinarian, biologist, farmer). Usually it presents as a cutaneous lesion, and it can lead to complications.⁸

Others

There are many other bacteria associated with marine environments and animals known to cause disease/illness. Some of these include Edwardsiella, Salmonella, E. coli, etc.⁹

Bites, Stings, Poison, & Venom:

Unfortunately, this category is too large to discuss in great detail. Many simple coral stings may be easily treatable with vinegar followed by hot water, but an eel bite usually requires medical treatment with antibiotics and/or stitches. Knowing the difference between poison and venom is an important start to the discussion. Poison is defined as “a substance that through its chemical action usually kills, injures, or impairs an organism,” according to the Merriam-Webster Dictionary.¹⁰ Similarly, the dictionary defines venom as, “poisonous matter normally secreted by some animals (as snakes, scorpions, or bees) and transmitted to prey or an enemy chiefly by biting or stinging”.¹¹ Therefore, venom is essentially poison used intentionally to cause damage.

Palytoxin

Palytoxin dangers are highly debated, but regardless of the nuances, it is still one of the most toxic poisons known. It has a “lethal dose (LD59) in mice of 0.15 microgram per kilogram by intravenous injection”.¹² It is most commonly associated with palythoas (zoanthids), but it is also associated with dinoflagellates, crabs, fish, etc. (another reason why pregnant women should not eat raw seafood).^{13, 14, 15} There have been several human fatalities due to palytoxin (usually through ingestion of contaminated seafood). Further research determined, “its intravenous LD50 in the dog, rabbit, monkey, guinea pig, rat, and mouse range between 0.033 and 0.45 μg/kg.” This same study determined palytoxin is relatively non-toxic when administered intragastrically. It is an irritant and can cause tissue damage when applied topically.¹⁶ While most of us wouldn’t dream of injecting ourselves with palytoxic intentionally, many of us have been poked significantly with vermetid worm tubes or other sharp spines. Palytoxin is still quite toxic subcutaneously and dermally (so don’t rub a zoanthid on
yourself, get tank water in your eyes, or place an open wound into your tank).

Corals:

Corals contain nematocysts (stinging cells) on their tentacles that inject through human skin like tiny barbs. The sting from a coral may be painless, feel like an electric shock, itch like poison ivy, or even cause anaphylactic shock. For instance, fire corals inject a protein venom that causes a burning sensation (hence the name, “fire coral”).¹⁷

Other Animals:

Eels, lionfish, rabbitfish, urchins, and many other animals are known to bite, sting, or otherwise puncture. Sometimes, even the most innocuous creature will turn for the worst. I had a bicolor blenny who loved to bite me. Any open wounds, especially when caused by a marine creature, are subject to infection. Know what creatures you have in the tank that could create a wound or envenomate.

Chemicals

Many chemical products have a “Material Safety Data Sheet” (MSDS), or as it is now called, a “Safety Data Sheet” (SDS). These sheets list the ingredients, known hazards, and basic first aid information. Unfortunately, many of our aquarium products state, “proprietary blend”. Although unspecified ingredients are still required to have hazard information, there is still some risk due to unknowns (someone might be particularly sensitive to an unspecified ingredient). Pregnant women should particularly pay attention to the sections on “Teratogenic Effects” and “Developmental Effects”. These parts states what is known to cause harm to a developing baby. Since most women are unwilling to have invasive experimentation performed on their babies, there is very little information on the risks of various chemicals during pregnancy. You can find many of the common MSDS (SDS) through a simple search.

Consider looking up the following chemicals, if you use them. It is best to know the chemical manufacturer during the search, but that is certainly not always possible. I looked these all up back in 2015, and this is the information I found at that time (it may not be accurate today, but this is an example of what results may be.)

Calcium chloride – anhydrous (used to make calcium supplements): Teratogenic effects are not available.
Calcium hydroxide (kalkwasser; used to raise calcium and alkalinity): Teratogenic effects are not available.
Magnesium chloride (used to make magnesium supplements): Teratogenic effects are not available.
Magnesium sulfate (used to make magnesium supplements): Teratogenic effects are not available.
Sodium bicarbonate (used to make alkalinity supplements): Teratogenic effects are not available.
Sodium carbonate (used to make alkalinity supplements): Teratogenic effects are not available.
CoralRx (coral dip): Teratogenic effects are not available.
Bayer Advanced Insecticide (sometimes used as a coral dip): “DEVELOPMENTAL TOXICITY: In an oral developmental toxicity study in rats treated with beta-cyfluthrin, decreased fetal body weights and an increased incidence of skeletal findings were observed at the maternally toxic and lethal high dose level (40 mg/kg).”
Levamisole (used as a coral dip): “DEVELOPMENTAL TOXICITY: Classified Reproductive system/toxin/female [POSSIBLE].”
Lugol’s Iodine (used as a coral dip): Teratogenic effects are not available.
Red Sea Reef Foundation Test Kit (tests calcium, alkalinity, and magnesium): “Mg Reagent A contains Sodium tetraborate decahydrate, but at levels below the threshold for classification. This compound has been found to have effects on reproduction and fertility. No compounds present in the reagents have been identified as having carcinogenic, mutagenic properties.”

Recommendations for a Pregnancy and Reefkeeping:

You can significantly reduce your risks to the pregnancy while reefkeeping by avoiding aquarium maintenance. However, if you decide to continue caring for aquariums, then I recommend speaking with a medical professional, considering the following the subsequent advice, and continuously re-evaluating your risk tolerance. Be honest and up-front with your doctor, and take the provided medical advice seriously. Wear gloves and other personal protective equipment as much as possible. Less exposed skin is better.

If you are fragging, then also wear eye protection (a face mask and face shield are advisable as well). Limit lifting, climbing, or other strenuous activity, especially if your doctor recommends against it. After aquarium maintenance, wash every exposed body part with hot water (as hot as is safe) and soap. Scrub thoroughly. Do not touch your face before you wash. Also, please do not eat, drink, or smoke while performing aquarium maintenance (or smoke at all while pregnant). This will help limit ingestion of poisons/bacteria.

Be familiar in first aid, and have those in your household also become familiar in first aid. For any injuries, contact medical personnel. Typical treatment for most aquarium stings/bites/etc. is to soak the area in vinegar for about 15 minutes, followed by a soak in hot water (as hot as you can safely withstand without burns) for about 30-90 minutes. The vinegar will help dissolve the nematocysts and prevent them from further discharging. Many poisons/venoms are broken down by heat (although some are intensified with heat, so contact medical personnel!)¹⁸ If you develop any rashes, lesions, or develop odd symptoms (loss of vision, heart palpitations, wheezing, numbness, etc.), then also contact medical personnel immediately!

Stay up to date on your immunizations (particularly tetanus if you plan to continue reefkeeping). Make a list of your aquarium inhabitants and potential exposures, and provide this to your doctor. I also kept a list of these things along with other relevant medical information in my purse. Sometimes medical issues will surface long after the initial exposure, so it’s important to have the information written in case you are unable to relay potential exposure information. After the baby is born, make sure the aquarium area is baby-proofed. Curious little hands will find every hazard!

Conclusion on Pregnancy and Reefkeeping:

Although I continued to perform aquarium maintenance, I stopped rescuing coral/fish due to the increased risks. I experienced no aquarium-related injuries and had a healthy baby. Although this is not a comprehensive list of marine hazards to a developing baby and its mother, hopefully it is an educational start. Reduce the risks where possible, and if you must accept some risk, be prepared on how to handle it. Good luck! If you can think of other hazards, let me know in the comments!

References:

Note: These references are now quite dated; the links may not work and/or the information may be superceded. Please review the latest studies and speak with your medical professional.

Nordin, Steven, et al. “A Longitudinal Descriptive Study of Self-reported Abnormal Smell and Taste Perception in Pregnant Women.” Chemical Senses (2004) 29 (5): 391–402.
Norwitz ER, Greenberg JA. “Antibiotics in Pregnancy: Are They Safe?” Reviews in Obstetrics and Gynecology. 2009;2(3):135-136.
Sohn AH, Probert WS, Glaser CA, et al. “Human Neurobrucellosis with Intracerebral Granuloma Caused by a Marine Mammal Brucella spp.” Emerging Infectious Diseases. 2003;9(4):485-488.
Hu, G, et al. “Meta- and Pooled Analyses of the Effect of Glutathione S-transferase M1 and T1 Deficiency on Chronic Obstructive Pulmonary Disease.” The International Journal of Tuberculosis and Lung Disease 12, no 12, December 2008, 1474-1481.
Pro, Steven. “Mycobacterium marinum: The Fish Disease You Could Catch”, Reefkeeping, 2003, http://www.reefkeeping.com/issues/2003-07/sp/feature/.
Centers for Disease Control and Prevention, http://www.cdc.gov/tb/publications/factsheets/specpop/pregnancy.htm, accessed 2 May 2015.
Vila J, Ruiz J, Gallardo F, Vargas M, Soler L, Figueras MJ, et al. “Aeromonas spp. and traveler’s diarrhea: clinical features and antimicrobial resistance.” Emerg Infect Dis [serial
online] 2003 May [date cited].
Reboli, A C, and W E Farrar. “Erysipelothrix Rhusiopathiae: An Occupational Pathogen.” Clinical Microbiology Reviews 2.4 (1989): 354–359. Print.
Clarridge, J E et al. “Extraintestinal Human Infection Caused by Edwardsiella Tarda.” Journal of Clinical Microbiology 11.5 (1980): 511–514. Print.
“Poison,” http://www.merriam-webster.com/dictionary/poison, accessed 10 May 2015.
“Venom,” http://www.merriam-webster.com/dictionary/venom, accessed 10 May 2015.
Richard E. Moore and Paul J. Scheuer, “Palytoxin: A New Marine Toxin from a Coelenterate,” Science, 30 April 1971: 172 (3982), 495–498.
Arthur M. Kodama, Yoshitsugi Hokama, Takeshi Yasumoto, Masakazu Fukui, Sally Jo Manea, Neal Sutherland, “Clinical and laboratory findings implicating palytoxin as cause of ciguatera poisoning due to Decapterus macrosoma (mackerel),” Toxicon, Volume 27, Issue 9, 1989, Pages 1051-1053.
Angel C. Alcala, Lawton C. Alcala, John S. Garth, Daisuke Yasumura, Takeshi Yasumoto, “Human fatality due to ingestion of the crab Demania reynaudii that contained a palytoxin-like toxin,” Toxicon, Volume 26, Issue 1, 1988, Pages 105-107.
Yutaka Onuma, Masayuki Satake, Takanori Ukena, Jean Roux, Suzanne Chanteau, Noelson Rasolofonirina, Mamy Ratsimaloto, Hideo Naoki, Takeshi Yasumoto, “Identification of putative palytoxin as the cause of clupeotoxism,” Toxicon, Volume 37, Issue 1, January 1999, Pages 55-65.
J.S. Wiles, J.A. Vick, M.K. Christensen, “Toxicological evaluation of palytoxin in several animal species,” Toxicon, Volume 12, Issue 4, August 1974, Pages 427-433.
Eric Borneman, “Venomous Corals: The Fire Corals,” Reefkeeping, November 2002. http://reefkeeping.com/issues/2002-11/eb/
“Marine Animal Bites or Stings,” http://www.nlm.nih.gov/medlineplus/ency/article/000032.htm, accessed 10 May 2015.

Successfully Moving a Reef Aquarium

reefdup DIY September 13, 2022September 13, 2022aquarium, corals, equipment, fish, how to, livestock, move, moving, reef tank, sand, shipping, transporting 0 Comment

Just moving an aquarium, reef or not, from one side of a room to the other can be extremely stressful or even catastrophic to the aquarium inhabitants. But what about moving a 150 gallon SPS-dominant aquarium 2000 miles across the country?? Oh yeah, we successfully moved our reef aquarium across the country, and then we did it again two more times after that. Several of our coral have lived in four different states and survived the three associated moves. This is how we did it one of those times, along with tips and lessons learned. Each time we’ve moved, we’ve learned more, so as every move will be very different, doing homework to prepare is essential.

Moving a Reef Aquarium Homework:

Well before moving the tank, I started doing some homework. Our move was across the country; however, a move across the room, up several floors to a new apartment, or across town to a new home could have similarities.

Before this move, we previously moved a smaller aquarium across the room. In that scenario, I just set up a huge tub with saltwater, a powerhead, and a heater. Easy. (Note the tub bowing; this was not a long-term solution!)

T-7 (or so) Days to the Move:

First, I needed to figure out the best transportation plan. For such a long distance, I could ship everything, or I could put everything into cargo on an airline flight. There were substantial benefits and risks with the various options. I went with a hybrid solution to balance speed with cost.

Next, I estimated my time backwards. I had to get everything to the post office and an airline to ship before they all closed, so I gave myself a two-hour margin from the worst-case scenario. I absolutely did not want to be holding a box of my babies while standing in front of a “Closed” sign, and even then, I barely made it.

To Do List (definitely not all-inclusive):

Driving to the shipping location(s), waiting in line, etc.
Driving to and having the local fish store add oxygen to fish bags (if available)
Physically moving stands, tanks, and equipment
Disassembling equipment and cleaning
Draining the aquariums
Removing rocks and letting them drain (they can take forever to drain)
Removing sand (grab a wet-vac!)
Catching and bagging fish
Removing and bagging coral
Catching all the little snails, crabs, etc.
Getting supplies (see below for a suggested list)
Extra time for some tears after accidentally breaking that gorgeous, huge, coral colony…
Margin for things to go wrong (Murphy’s Law)

T-2 Days to the Move:

I stopped feeding my fish for about two days prior to the move. This caused them to produce less waste during shipping (which could otherwise lead to deadly ammonia). They were healthy, so I was not worried (and the fish likely found some pods or algae in the tank on which to munch in the interim).

The Big Day – Moving Time:

Moving Supplies:

Fragging supplies:
- Bone cutters of various sizes
- Hammer (for those big pieces attached to rock)
- Chisel (to go with the hammer)
- Safety equipment (gloves, safety glasses, etc.)
- Super glue for any fragging accidents
- Tongs
Preparation supplies (especially for a local move):
- Buckets
- Tubs
- Heaters
- Battery-powered air pumps
Shipping/Moving supplies:
- Thick, insulated boxes (with a surrounding bag to catch water)
- Packing tape
- Extra-thick plastic bags
- Rubber bands
- Newspaper
- Heating/cooling packs
- Glass suction cups, crating, blankets, etc.
Cleaning supplies:
- Towels (lots and lots!)
- Floor-protection sheeting (e.g., plastic sheets, drop cloths)
- Extra-thick bags and/or well-sealing containers
- Pipette or a turkey baster
- Siphon and tubing to drain the water
- Febreeze or other good smelly stuff
- Wet-Vac
Other supplies:
- Permanent marker
- Scissors

Getting Started:

Personally and Emotionally:

First up… I grabbed coffee… lots of it… (I needed a good kick-in-the-pants to get going). Here, I chose a lovely three cups of iced black coffee (ok, you’re allowed to say “ew”). I also had some easy-prep food available. Pizza is good for this, especially as a bribe for friends to help. If you’re tackling this project, your friends are going to remember this day for a long time. Treat them well.

Overall System:

Aquarium Parameters on Controller Display

Before starting, I made note of what the aquarium parameters were. There’s no point in shipping fish or corals that are in bad water already. I corrected all incorrect parameters before bagging the coral and fish. (And no, I no longer use an AquaController. This is an older photo, but the point is still the same!)

Livestock:

After gathering all the supplies, I took a deep breath. It was time for the real work. I put on all safety gear needed. Then, I started with the coral to bag and box, as they are likely to last the longest out of the aquarium. Soft corals came out first, then LPS, then SPS corals. Often it’s easier to remove the entire rock in order to break the corals off.

I placed each coral in a labeled bag with tank water. I recommend labeling the bags with the name of the coral as many corals will “brown out” during shipping and become hard to identify.

Next, I set up a few large containers. As I pull out the rocks to let them drain, I pick off the snails and crabs and place them separately in bags for shipping.

Once the corals and rocks were out of the aquarium, the fish were rather easy to catch. I bagged them in two to three 3-mil bags, size dependent on the size and energy of the fish (see one of the lessons-learned at the end) and taped temperature-regulating packs to the top of the cooler. I also had oxygen added to the bags by my LFS. If you are not comfortable with bagging fish, speak to the experts at a LFS that you trust. They should be able to guide you on your fish needs and may even bag them properly for you.

After the corals, fish, and inverts are bagged, tagged, and ready to go, I placed them in the box. I added the lid (ensuring the temperature-regulating packs were adequate and secured to the top of the box) and taped it shut. Then, I secured the bag around the box to prevent any water leaks from damaging the outer box. Next, I taped the outer box shut. The box was quite heavy from all the water, so I had to be cautious. Before delivering the box to the shipper, I doubled-checked to make sure someone was available to receive the shipment at the appropriate time.

Once I returned to the aquarium after all livestock was safely on the way, the rocks were adequately drained. I placed them in insulated boxes and surrounded them with wet butcher paper (unwaxed). I’ve used wet newspaper, but it tends to fall apart too easily. It’s not much fun to pick out wet paper from rock. Obviously, if the rocks need to be shipped with the fish/corals, then do that but in a separate box. Also, the rocks can usually be shipped a slower route (i.e., cheaper route) as die-off will not be as severe, especially if they are kept damp.

To ensure I didn’t miss some livestock, I double-checked everywhere for any remaining. Next, I started draining the water. This is usually a slow process, but using a pump can help speed it up. Make sure to turn off and/or disconnect all devices that may have issues with low water (e.g., heaters, powerheads).

When moving an aquarium, I absolutely do not reuse sand. It causes more problems than it is worth; saving a few dollars here is just not worth the risk, in my opinion. Used sand usually contains so much microfauna that massive die-off is next-to-impossible to prevent, despite thorough washing. If I absolutely need to be frugal, then instead of throwing it away, I rinse it out well (which is beyond time-consuming and gross) and let it dry while spread out in the sun. I reuse it in a future aquarium, but not in the one I’m immediately setting back up. I use all new, dry sand to prevent problems in the new setup.

Equipment:

Of course, I turned off all electrical equipment before removal and then gave it a good, thorough cleaning in a hot water and vinegar mixture for a few hours. With a little elbow grease, most coralline algae and other detritus comes off with no issues. Once cleaned, rinsed, and dried, I used electrical cable ties to tidy up the equipment before getting packed. I also keep and reuse the original manufacturer boxes for the weird or expensive components, such as light fixtures, Vortech powerheads, etc.

Probes:

Generally, I don’t reuse pH probes during a move, but that’s only because they’re typically due for replacement by then anyway. If you have pH probes that you plan to reuse, you’ll want to keep them capped with fluid and then have extra calibration fluid on hand to calibrate them after the move. Some other probes require submersion and/or capping during transportation, so consult the manufacturer’s instructions.

Lighting:

I usually remove light bulbs from fixtures and pack them separately, but I seem to have about the same breakage rate whether they’re in the fixture or packed separately. Thankfully this is much less of a problem with LED lighting fixtures.

Tank/Stand:

Moving the tank/stand can be physically exhausting and dangerous if not done correctly. I made sure to have more than enough people to help move (this is size/weight dependent on the tank/stand). I taped all doors shut so they didn’t open during the move. Since my stand had delicate pieces (fancy trim work), I used painters tape to mark off that section and wrote something like, “Do not lift here.” Unfortunately, that did not prevent people from lifting from that area, so I had to make multiple repairs after the move.

Then, the stands were wrapped in moving blankets since they were large. Our aquarium was professionally crated in a plywood crate the company made on site. This is not necessarily a requirement, but it was what our moving company required.

Reassembly after Successfully Moving:

Reassembly depends on the length of the move. For our move across the country, I was in Ohio packing and shipping everything. My husband was already in Utah with our new house. He set up a very… sketchy… 40 gallon breeder “holding tank.” He cycled some rock and sand before I shipped the corals/fish out to him. He picked up the boxes at the airport, brought them to the new tank, and acclimated them. When the equipment arrived with the moving company a few weeks later, we set the tank back up and started moving things over.

Lessons Learned from Moving a Reef Aquarium:

There is never enough time. If you plan for 8 hours, it’ll take 16.
Don’t ship in extreme weather, if avoidable. We shipped in the middle of a heatwave and lost some things.
Some cargo companies have live animal shipping insurance. Consider it seriously. It’s often 1%, depending on the company.
Very large, active fish (especially those with sharp areas) may need substantially thicker bags. Otherwise, they may puncture the bag.
Things happen. Our cargo company lost our box, and it took four days to arrive in Utah. We lost a few corals and a purple tang (hence insurance). No amount of preparation will fix that, but accepting the risks can help emotionally.

DIY Frag Kit

reefdup DIY April 21, 2022April 21, 2022aquarium, bone cutters, christmas, coral dip, dipping, DIY, epoxy, father's day, Frag Plugs, fragging, gift, holiday, present, scalpel, toenail clippers, UV light 0 Comment

Do you have a special reefkeeper in your life that deserves a handmade-with-love gift? Or… more realistically… it may just be a present to yourself. This simple project only takes a few minutes to put together and organizes your basic frag supplies in a neat kit.

I’d like to thank my very dear friend, Kevin, for the idea. He gave it to me as a present many years ago (which I still have), and what a wonderful present it was! I previously had a “frag box”… a small tote that held everything haphazardly… and left me subject to getting a scalpel stab while searching for super glue. This new, handy tote is rather inexpensive, and it keeps everything well-organized.

Supply List:

What supplies you use is totally up to you! But, this is a handy list just to get you started. Other ideas are in the links below.

Organizer Box (~$15 USD)
Bone Cutters or Toenail Clippers (~$7 – $20+ USD)
Frag Plugs (~$10 – $20 USD)
Super Glue Gel (~$8 USD)
Bridal Veil Fabric (~$4 USD)
Rubber bands (~$3 USD)
Scalpel Knife (~$8 USD)
UV and Regular Flashlight (~$15 USD)
Pan Scraper (~$3 USD)

Organizer Box:

First up is the container. Mine was from Harbor Freight (a U.S.-based hardware store), but you could always use fishing tackle boxes, craft organizers, etc. This option is similar: Organizer Box (~$15 USD)

Frag Cutters:

A frag kit wouldn’t be complete without some way to frag, so I highly recommend some “Bone Cutters” or heavy duty Toenail Clippers (ok, I’ll wait while you make a silly face over that one.) But seriously, I love the Toenail Clippers, as they’re just the right size for my hands, and they’re less than $7 USD (They also lasted me 14 years, previously)! Specialty aquarium stores typically sell larger ones that are great for cutting really thick frags. They also come in powder-coated versions for longer life. I have a pair of the powder-coated ones, and while they’re beautiful, I still like my $7 set better.

Frag Plugs

Since this is a frag kit, Frag Plugs are always a good idea (unless you have several hundred frag plugs already on hand as I do.) I keep my frag plugs in separate containers, organized by size; however, I do keep a few plugs in the kit just in case I need a few quickly.

Super Glue

Of course, to go along with the cutters and plugs, super glue is a must-have. Super Glue Gel is typically the go-to choice, but coral epoxies and specialty glues are great as well. Before the “dollar stores” became the “$1.25 and up” stores with even less product, I used to buy all of my glue there (in bulk, dozens at a time, which earned me some strange looks). Nowadays, some of the bulk buys on Amazon aren’t too bad.

Bridal Veil Fabric

If you’re fragging soft corals, like mushrooms, you may want to consider having some bridal veil fabric on hand. This is really useful to put over the coral so that it doesn’t float away in the current.

Rubber Bands

Rubber bands are helpful to tie down Xenia or other leather corals to the frag plugs. It is also an easy way to secure the bridal veil, mentioned above, to the frag plug.

Dipping Supplies:

I also use my “frag kit” as a “coral dip kit,” so I have other items in it. I, personally, keep my scalpel separate since I don’t have a cover for it (they’re meant to be disposable, but I keep mine), and I really prefer to not cut myself. If you decide to keep a scalpel knife in the box, please either cover it, or use disposable blades.

I also like a dental pick kit, like these on Amazon (although I got mine from Harbor Freight). They’re great for getting muck out of tiny crevices, knocking of eggs, etc.

Pipettes are always handy to have around, including for various household purposes. I end up buying them in bulk every few years. Typically I use them for dipping and feeding corals, but also for cleaning the rock work.

Flashlight:

I keep an LED light handy in the kit to help inspect corals when I get them. Although it’s not pictured, I do use a UV light, like this one, to help look for pests and other problems.

Other Odds and Ends:

I also keep random items that don’t fit elsewhere in my kit, such as measuring spoons (e.g., tablespoon, teaspoon) and this plastic scraper made for cleaning kitchen pans. It actually does a great job cleaning algae off aquarium equipment (especially off acrylic surfaces).

Safety Equipment:

And, of course, no kit is ever complete without some sort of safety equipment. I keep a pair of gloves in my kit, and my safety glasses and fragging face shield aren’t far away. If you’re looking for gloves, I recommend powder-free nitrile gloves. Latex is ok (as long as you aren’t allergic), but they aren’t quite as puncture-resistant. I have to admit, I’m not sure of the material of the gloves shown.

Conclusion:

If it wasn’t obvious, just place all of the items neatly in the container, close it up, and voila, it’s an awesome gift! Ok, you might want to add a bow on top.

Depending on the items, this kit could range $30 – $50 USD. If this is a self-present, and your significant other balks at the price, just remind him/ her about how clean it will help you keep your workspace! Of course, you could always start small and just add the items as you go.

If you have other recommendations, post them up in the comments below!

Happy reefing!

DIY Face Shields for Fragging

reefdup DIY February 26, 2022February 26, 20223D printing, corals, DIY, face shield, fragging, fragmentation, ppe, protection 3 Comments

It was the beginning of the pandemic, about March 2020, and, like everyone, I was stuck at home wishing there was some way I could help. My 3D printer was sitting idle, and personal protective equipment (PPE) was in short supply. The moment I came across the National Institute of Health’s Trusted Repository (reviewed for clinical use) of 3D printable PPE, I fired up my printer. Off came face shield after face shield, shipped out to fire fighters and medical professionals in multiple states. But, as PPE supplies came back in supply, my printer slowed down. One day, I had a failed print, and it was bad enough to not ship out. But that was when it hit me – these were the perfect DIY face shields for fragging corals!

Supplies List:

This is a list of what I used to build my DIY face shields for fragging. Note that prices are not included, as this project is not very cost-effective for one face shield. This is likely best done as a club effort or other group project. I’ve included links to the products and 3D print files (please note, as an Amazon Associate, I earn from qualifying purchases. I get commissions for purchases made through links in this post.)

3D printing filament, suitable for the printer available (e.g., 1.75mm PLA)
10mil Report Covers
Button Elastic

3D Printing the Face Shield:

My 3D printer is a Creality Ender 3 Pro, and it has been quite the workhorse. A DIY filament dry box is below, holding all of my filament (or at least that’s all there was at the time!)

I selected the face shield, “DtM-v4.0 Face Shield PPE,” submitted by tprestero. This design was so robust that there was little durability difference noticed between using PLA filament versus PETG. In fact, even after PPE supplies returned to somewhat normal, I had first responders requesting more of these, as these were better than the commercially available face shields. And we just need these for fragging corals!

As for the print/slicing parameters, I used everything as recommended in the file with no issues.

Assembling the Face Shield:

Assembly is incredibly simple. Use a three-hole punch on the binder covers along the 11″ edge. Slip (ok, it’s more like “wrangle”) the binder cover holes over the face shield holes. I found it easiest to start in the center. For comfort, round out the corners of the bottom of the report cover.

Next, slip the button elastic on one end (button elastic not pictured here due to supply issues at fabrication time). Place the shield on your head, and wrap the elastic around the back of your head. Without pulling the elastic, mark where the elastic meets the shield, and then cut the elastic. Place the button elastic onto the face shield nub. Voila! Congrats on your DIY face shield for fragging corals!

Although this is an amazing face shield, I still recommend wearing safety glasses to further protect your eyes.

Then, combine this 3D printed face shield for fragging with the Magnetic Stirrer Coral Dip Station, and you’re all set for a fun (and safe) day of reefkeeping!

Coral Inspection, Dips, and Quarantine

reefdup How To, Rehabilitation February 25, 2022October 16, 2022acclimation, AEFW, coral dip, CoralRx, diagnosis, Dying Coral, gluing coral, grow-out, hydrogen peroxide, quarantine, Rehabilitation, Rescue Coral, superglue 7 Comments

A blog on coral rehabilitation is quite useless without a discussion on basic coral evaluation; a proper coral inspection, dip, and quarantine procedure deserves recognition. While there are many differing views on how and what to quarantine, this is my approach. If it seems a bit neurotic and obsessive, well, that’s because I’m taking in some of the most sick corals in the hobby. Hopefully learning from the worst case can help for the best. Find what works for you, and stick with it.

The Preparation:

Before bringing home dying coral, I have an established reef aquarium that I keep running continuously with no fish (this helps prevent Cryptocaryon irritans infestations or other outbreaks in my aquariums). Contrary to popular belief, long-term survivability of a reef tank without fish is quite easy (I’m measuring success in terms of years without fish). Lighting must also be adequate for what you intend to keep. A good skimmer should not be overlooked as well. If the tank will be a hospital tank, then a carbon reactor is essential to help remove coral mucus. Basically, this aquarium system does not have to be fancy or have all the frills. It just has to work. I’ve had many different quarantine setups over the years, and the best were always the ones that were the easiest to maintain. Honestly, most of my quarantine tanks just received the “hand-me-downs” from my other tanks. The coral rehabilitation system fish room shown was circa 2012.

The Acquisition:

I obtain my corals from everywhere, but I only recommend purchasing them from reputable vendors/hobbyists. Each of my coral acquisitions is worked out individually with the owner (e.g., sometimes I pay, trade, or make other arrangements) on a case-by-case basis. Regardless of the source, I inspect every coral visually for pests, nuisance algae, or hitchhikers prior to purchase to assess probability of survival. Depending on the coral species, I may look for pest-specific parasites (e.g., Acropora-eating flatworm bite marks (AEFW), red bugs on Acropora, Montipora-eating nudibranchs). Once the coral arrives home I acclimate it into the quarantine tank.

Coral Dips and Inspections:

Acclimation:

Acclimations are short (approximately 15 minutes for temperature adjustment), unless I have a specific reason for a prolonged drip. These corals are often damaged through poor water conditions in their previous home, so it is typically best to remove them from the cause as quickly as safely possible. If they were damaged from other causes (e.g., high light, stinging), then a short acclimation is not as important. After the coral is acclimated, I open the bag and put the coral in one cup of tank water in a separate container. For this part, I absolutely love my Magnetic Stirrer Coral Dip Station and my DIY face shield.

Coral Inspection and Diagnosis:

At this point, I perform a more thorough inspection to provide me with a usable “diagnosis” (again, I’m not a medical professional, but having an idea of what is wrong is still critical.) This “diagnosis” helps me determine how to treat the coral. For example, if the coral is bleached, I try to look for other markers to determine why (e.g., high light, extremely low light, poor water quality, disease), so I can arrange the most appropriate treatment (e.g., correct husbandry, additional feedings, disease treatment). The flowchart below depicts my typical “triage,” where I try to determine the most appropriate reaction as quickly as possible. This process helps when I bring home a cooler full of dying corals; I have to prioritize treatments and move fast.

The coral is then removed from the plug/base, and all dead skeleton is removed as much as possible. I find this especially critical for rescue corals. In my experience, corals have an easier time growing new skeleton rather than growing over old, especially if the old skeleton has sharp edges. If the coral was placed in strong current, the coral’s tissue could catch on a sharp edge of its old skeleton and rip. In cases where removing all excess rock/ skeleton would harm the coral further (example below – the coral’s tissue was not stable enough to cut the skeleton with a band saw), I just trim down any sharp points.

Coral Dips:

Hydrogen Peroxide Coral Dip:

First, all LPS coral receive a dip in a mixture of hydrogen peroxide and tank water. This helps kill off some nuisance algae and some pests. Hydrogen peroxide isn’t great for the coral tissue itself (prevents calcification), but it isn’t immediate death either. I just use the normal 3% pharmacy-grade type, as the high-strength hydrogen peroxide is very dangerous (can cause blindness in humans). The ratio I use depends on the coral’s condition, but a 10:1 tank water:hydrogen peroxide (3%) is fairly safe on LPS corals for about 20 seconds. In severe cases, I go up to 4:1 for 60 seconds, but I rarely recommend this.

CoralRx, Iodine, and Other Dips:

Second, all corals except smooth-skinned Acropora (they die frequently) are treated with one milliliter of CoralRx mixed with the one cup of tank water (or scaled to the size of the coral). Smooth-skinned Acropora are instead treated with Lugol’s Iodine mixed to manufacturer’s instructions. There are other suitable coral dips, but CoralRx is what I prefer (no real reason – it works, and I haven’t found a reason to switch).

The small amount of water volume limits where pests can hide after the dip draws them out. While the coral is sitting in the dip, I use a pipette to gently baste the coral to blow any remaining pests out of the crevices. I also use a magnifying glass to identify the hitchhikers.

If I find any pests or evidence of them (bite marks or eggs, like this Acropora coral with AEFW), then I will do an additional pest-specific treatment. I keep all treatment medications on hand so I never find myself looking for drugs at an odd hour (hmm…that sounds bad…).

Aquarium Medications (circa 2012 – oh, how this has grown over the years!)

After dip time is completed, the corals are rinsed with quarantine aquarium water (NOT the bag water.)

Final Coral Preparation:

After the peroxide dip, if there is any ripped or cut tissue, I place a small amount of superglue gel along the line (as shown on the Fungia coral). This helps prevent water flow from literally ripping the tissue off the coral. Superglue gel reacts with water to form a type of plastic mesh. However, this reaction is exothermic, which means it releases heat. This can cause cell death, so extreme care should be used. That’s why I prefer wound-grade superglue gel, like Liquid Skin or Vetbond (this is pricey, especially considering when I get my regular superglue gel from the dollar store, but the medical type is worth it in these cases). I also seal any remaining skeleton or base rock in regular super glue. This way, if there are any remaining pests or algae spores, they will have a hard time getting past the glue barrier. The coral will quickly grow over the super glue, and within about a month the super glue should not be noticeable.

Coral Quarantine Tank:

Corals are then transferred to the quarantine tank where they will stay for at least 30 days. During that time I visually inspect each coral about every three days for pests/bite marks/and overall health.

During this time, it is essential to keep hermit crabs, cleaner shrimp, and the like away from the coral. These critters will go after the dying tissue and often take away healthy tissue in the process, which can quickly lead to the coral’s demise. It is especially essential to keep them away during feeding, as the process of stealing food from a coral’s mouth can be extremely damaging.

Lighting and flow should be kept low to allow the coral to acclimate. However, the flow rate must be high enough to keep the coral mucus from building up on the coral.

Coral Grow-out Tank:

After the 30 days, I go through the entire dipping process again. Also, if the corals weren’t stable enough to have the excess skeleton/ base cut, I do that at this point. The corals then go into a grow-out tank/secondary quarantine where they live for another 30 days. After those 30 days, I repeat the dipping process a third time. But, I leave the entire base of the coral or a nice fragment of the coral in the grow-out tank. This allows me to have a healthy backup in case I lose my main colony. The main colony is moved to the main display after the dipping process or fragmented for sharing.

Grow-out Aquarium for Rehabilitated Corals

Coral Inspection, Dips, and Quarantine Conclusion:

Yes, it takes a whopping 60 days for a coral to make it to my main display. But, through a proper process of coral inspections, dips, and quarantine, I can rest assured that I minimize pests and nuisance algae. I will not have to rip out my corals to treat for AEFW or go almost two years without Montipora corals to treat for Monti-eating Nudibranchs. “An ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure.” I can also sell my coral clippings knowing I’m providing a very healthy specimen to another hobbyist.

No matter where you buy a coral from, always quarantine. Do not trust anyone, even me. Everyone makes mistakes, and sometimes even a backup safety fails. You do not have to quarantine like I do, but any amount is better than nothing. I hope this post provides some insight on how to improve your procedures.

Turn it up to 11: Magnetic Stirrer Coral Dip Station

reefdup DIY January 2, 2022January 2, 20223D printing, Coral, coral dip, dip station, DIY, magnetic stirrer, quarantine 2 Comments

Sure, blowing a coral with a pipette while it sits for 10+ minutes in a dip works. So does blasting it with a powerhead. But… I’m a nerd, and nerds must always over-engineer every problem (or non-problem). This project was the result of trying to find the end of the internet one night while researching new 3D printing ideas. I was inspired by ChickenHaunt’s Resin Wash Station over at Thingiverse. With only a minor tweak, I now have an amazing Coral Wash Station! Enjoy “turning it up to 11” with this magnetic stirrer.

Supplies List:

This is a list of what I actually used to build my magnetic stirrer coral dip station, along with estimated prices as of the published date. I’ve included links to the products and 3D print files (please note, as an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases. I get commissions for purchases made through links in this post.) While other stirrers and containers will still make a nice coral dip station, they may not work with the 3D print file. Therefore, I highly recommend this list since it is all most likely to work well together. I also recommend fluorescent filament for the print file, since the setup will likely be near a reef aquarium (so the filament will glow!) At the end of this post, I’ve included more details about the supplies, along with some other options.

Intllab Magnetic Stirrer: ~$30 USD
3D-printed Rack with fluorescent filament: ~$3 USD, if printing yourself
Magnetic Rods with Retrieval Rod: ~$17 USD
Sistema KLIP IT Lunch Plus Storage Containers: ~$9 USD (recommend getting two sets – or more if you do a lot of dipping)

Coral Dip Station Instructions:

Step 1: Prepare the Magnetic Stirrer

First, I started with the Intllab Magnetic Stirrer. This is a simple stirrer that does not have a heating option (not necessary for how short coral dips are). Now, if you wanted a coral bath option, I recommend considering a heated magnetic stirrer (but the cost is much greater).

One of the most important qualities of this stirrer is the 316 stainless steel plate due to the corrosive nature of saltwater. (Note: this metal is corrosion-resistant against saltwater, not corrosion-proof. Try to keep the stirrer as clean as possible for the longest life.)

Step 2: Prepare for 3D Printing

My 3D printer is a Creality Ender 3 Pro, which is a “best value” printer in my opinion. The fluorescent green filament I used for the stirrer tank surround is in the storage tub on the left. The black filament used for the rack is on the right.

Step 3: Print and Build

I followed ChickenHaunt’s instructions for the printing and assembly, but there are a few remixes out there on Thingiverse too. Here are a few things I liked/didn’t like along with tips:

– Use solvent weld to assemble everything rather than hot glue and/or super glue
– Assemble the components on the stirrer before gluing; otherwise they may not fit (including the magnetic stirrer and the storage container)
– The strainer platform is quite flimsy

I added a sticker with the infamous quote, “Turn it up to 11!” from the movie, Spinal Tap. There’s no “11” on here, but most of the time I turn the stirrer up to the 4th blue bar. Use trial and error to see what works best for your corals and setup.

Step 4: Add Parts

Once printing and assembly is complete, add the dip container. It should fit snugly into the surround. Of course, the larger containers that ChickenHaunt used would work great for larger corals (but those containers can be difficult to find. I like these smaller ones for frags and small colonies.) Add a magnetic stirrer rod.

Note: The magnetic stirrer kit I recommended includes a retrieval rod. Personally, I try to keep my hands out of coral dip as much as possible for safety. The retrieval rod will pick up the magnetic stirrer rod, thus helping to prevent skin contact with the coral dip. There are additional options at the end of the post.

Now, add the strainer platform with handle. The platform is very flimsy, so whenever I lift out corals, I have to support the handle’s opposite corner. A platform remix would likely fix this, but this still works fine.

Step 5: Test it Out!

Now, just add tank water and medication of choice. Plug in and turn on the magnetic stirrer. I usually turn the knob to the fourth blue bar. Once the medication is adequately dispersed, add in the corals and set a timer for the appropriate dip length.

No more pipette blowing or giant powerhead necessary!

Inspect the corals for damage and health (if you need a primer, check out Assessing Coral Health).

About a minute before the dip time is up, I turn off the magnetic stirrer. This allows the gunk to settle to the bottom. Once the time is up, carefully lift the platform out of the solution (using additional support as necessary).

I have six of these storage containers, as I typically have a three-dip process. Then, I use a fourth container for plain tank water to rinse the corals.

Magnetic Stirrer Coral Dip Station Conclusion:

When I first built this magnetic stirrer coral dip station, of course I was excited. But I had no idea how much it would transform my dip successes. The small footprint combined with the fast water movement made dips easier and more effective.

Additional Supplies Info:

NOTE: As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases. I get commissions for purchases made through links in this post.

INTLLAB Magnetic Stirrer w/ stir bar set & retriever

INTLLAB Magnetic Stirrer

Fluorescent PLA filament

Magnetic Stirrer Mixer Stir Bar and Retriever

Sistema KLIP IT Lunch Plus Storage Containers

Creality Ender 3 Pro 3D Printer

Coral Dip

Assessing Coral Health: An Introduction

reefdup DIY, How To, Rehabilitation June 26, 2021October 16, 2022AEFW, bleached, brown jelly disease, Coral Health, disease, Dying Coral, fragged, fragmentation, husbandry, infected, infested, parasite, poison, starvation, Stung, Tegastes acroporanus 9 Comments

Even on a smaller scale than global reef decline, the ability to assess coral health is essential. I am often asked how I know where to even start to rescue corals. In my opinion, determining how healthy the coral is, or what the problem might be, is usually the first step. This is an introduction on assessing coral health to determine what might be causing the coral stress.

Assessing Coral Health for Stung Corals:

Corals stung by another coral are probably the most easy to save. These corals are healthy overall, but a portion of them is damaged. As long the coral avoids infection and no further damage occurs, then healing is rather quick. When a coral “stings” another coral, the stung coral is sometimes actually “digested.” When corals have to compete for territory, they expel their digestive organs, called mesenterial filaments, and use them to digest a nearby coral. This typically results in one area of severe damage and no damage elsewhere. A coral stung this coral shown, but the remaining tissue was very healthy. You can read more about the Trachyphyllia’s recovery here.

Lack of Proper Husbandry:

A lack of proper husbandry is typically a slow process. It can result in the tissue between polyps receding first. As shown here, portions of recent die-off right are beside healthy tissue and coralline-encrusted skeleton. With these corals, good water parameters are essential. Removal of invasive algae is also critical. These corals typically do not need much additional care. You can read more about this Lobophyllia’s recovery here.

Assessing Poorly-Fragmented Corals:

When a coral is improperly fragmented, various outcomes are possible depending on damage. Sometimes the tissue rips apart improperly, or the skeleton is crushed underneath intact tissue. As long as there is about half the polyp left, the coral typically survives with the natural healing process. This Euphyllia coral unfortunately became infected and died.

Corals with Pest Damage or Parasites:

Attempting to rescue an infected coral is risky, as it may infect other corals. This type of rescue requires a proper quarantine tank and medications on hand. Typically, once the pests and any eggs are removed, the coral will heal quickly on its own. Here, this infected Acropora has both Acropora-eating flatworms and red bugs (Tegastes acroporanus). With proper treatments to remove both pests, this coral made a full recovery.

Assessing Coral Health due to Infections:

Attempting to rescue infected corals can be dangerous, complex, and expensive. Any attempts require a dedicated hospital tank, proper supplies (including a microscope), and extensive knowledge in coral diseases and treatments. Furthermore, keeping a low expectation for coral survival is key. These infections vary by cause (e.g., bacterial, viral, fungal, ciliate, etc.), so the owner must tailor treatment to the cause. Determining the cause can be nearly impossible without the proper equipment. Any attempts also require the utmost caution, as some infections are transferable to humans. This coral shown had “brown jelly disease.”

Bleached Corals:

Coral bleaching also has a variety of causes, and knowledge of the cause can help determine possible solutions. Assessing a bleached coral’s health can be challenging as high light, chronic low light, high temperature, low temperature (rare cases), lack of oxygenation, and some infections can cause bleaching. Since a bleached coral is lacking its typical zooxanthallae population (the symbiotic algae that lives inside the coral’s tissues and produces food for the coral), it will need regular feedings. Unfortunately, in my experience, sometimes these corals never thrive again, even with coloration return.

The photo below shows several corals that were poisoned with household bleach. An angry customer poured it into a local fish store’s tanks, which killed all the livestock. I attempted to save everything that still had tissue, but even these corals eventually died.

Starved Corals:

Although starvation is more commonly seen in non-photosynthetic corals (NPS), it is still possible in photosynthetic corals as well. This is more likely to occur in in ultra-low nutrient systems, also known as ULNS. Here, a Dendrophyllia coral is starving, shown by the algae-encrusted skeleton. Regular feedings are essential in these cases.

Poisoned Corals:

Poisoned corals usually have retracted tissue with areas of white skeleton showing. Tissue colors are usually brown or white, depending on the toxin. Any other typical colors (e.g., blues, reds, greens) are muted. This coral was poisoned by either the flatworm treatment a LFS used, or by the flatworm toxins themselves. You can read more about this coral’s amazing recovery here.

As shown, coral health has a multitude of causes, and only a few examples were shown here. If you would like to continue learning about coral pathology, a more technical source is available on NOAA.

DIY Glass Aquarium Sump

reefdup DIY May 25, 2012April 21, 2022acrylic sump, Glass, instructions, Silicone, sump, tools 0 Comment

As someone who has made a few glass aquarium sumps and one fully customized acrylic sump (along with owning pre-manufactured ones), I don’t understand the excitement over acrylic sumps. Glass aquarium sumps are cheaper, easier to build, and hold up to abuse better than acrylic for the average user. I buy non-reef-ready aquariums at the local pet store “$1/gallon sale,” design the sump, and then get some glass cut. This is how I made a 40g glass sump for $65. (Or, if the idea of getting glass cut is too daunting or time-consuming, consider these pre-cut baffle kits!)

Supplies List:

This is a list of what I actually used to build my glass aquarium sump, along with estimated prices as of the published date. I’ve included links to the products (or similar) (please note, as an Amazon Associate, I earn from qualifying purchases. I get commissions for purchases made through links in this post.)

Glass Aquarium Sump Instructions:

Step 1: Design the Glass Sump Layout

Designing the setup may be the most challenging aspect of this project, and I highly recommend that you research various designs prior to starting. Consider skimmer footprints, algae reactors, probes, return pump size, and sizes/ locations of all the other equipment you’ll need or may want in the future. As you’ll see below, sump design really deserves its own post (or multiple!)

The Footprint:

Design needs/desires lead to determining your equipment requirements. If, for example, the skimmer has a footprint of 10 inches by 10 inches and requires a water depth of 8 inches, then the sump will be quite sizeable. Start drawing out the footprint design on the graph paper, following a similar train of thought for the water height. I like to stay simple with sump designs. The water drains into a filter sock, into a skimmer, through some baffles (to help minimize the bubbles from the skimmer), slowly over a refugium, slowly over a deep sand bed, through more baffles, to the return pump, and out.

The Height:

Next, you’ll need to account for the water that overflows from the main display aquarium and drains into the sump. Leave enough space for that water plus a few extra gallons just to be on the safe side. For instance, if your display tank water level drops by two inches when the pumps are off, then you can multiply that by the tank’s length and depth to have an estimate of the water volume (in cubic inches) draining to the sump. Convert the cubic inches to gallons (there are plenty of easy calculators online), and that will be the water volume going to the sump. This is a safety margin, which must be added to the planned water level height. Personally, I like to oversize my sump (another 50-100% more) just in case anything happens (e.g., tank continues to drain). This will also help to account for water volume that was above the water line in an operational skimmer, in the case of a power outage.

The Volume:

With the water footprint and height set, once again, calculate the volume required (length x width x height, converted volume to gallons). This is the tank size you will need to purchase, if not larger for a greater safety margin. I used a 40 gallon breeder aquarium for this project.

40 Gallon Glass Aquarium Selected for my Sump

Once the basic footprint is complete, it is time to design the baffles. The depth is just the inside depth of the empty aquarium, and the height is the running water level height (not the overflowed water). Placing some at staggered heights can cause the water to move above and below them, thus removing some bubbles. Play around with the design, and try to visualize water moving through your sump design.

Step 2: Cutting the Glass Baffles

Once the design is complete, measure the pieces of glass you’ll need. If your local glass shop will let you (and if the tank is small), take the tank with you so the glass company can custom-fit the glass to the tank. Tank sides are rarely truly parallel, so the baffles may need trimming. I also recommend having the glass shop sand the edges of the glass to prevent injury during installation. My local glass shop only charged me $20 for the glass, cutting/polishing, and sizing. They were amazing!

Step 3: Installing the Baffles

Use a high-quality silicone made for aquarium use. I chose black for the sump, but it is also readily available in clear. Do NOT use bathtub silicone as it frequently contains an anti-mildew chemical in it that can foul an aquarium. Home improvement stores often carry the proper silicone, and local fish stores often do as well. Use only in a well-ventilated area as the fumes are not pleasant and may cause health problems. It didn’t take much; I only used half of the tube shown.

Use a measuring tape and right angles to place the first baffle. Work the smallest areas to the largest areas to prevent areas that are difficult to seal. I worked on the left, right, then center.

I use duct tape to hold the baffles in place while it dries. Let each area sit for an hour or two before moving to the next section. This helps prevent silicone slips.

Step 4: Adding a Filter Sock Holder

If you decide to add a filter sock holder, there are lots of designs available. Just make sure yours has a bracket that will fit onto the side of the aquarium sump. I’ve added bonded acrylic ones before (shown in the photo below), but it is challenging to make a good bond between glass and acrylic. After a couple years (if you’re lucky), they will likely require resealing. Using glass filter sock holders is just too dangerous, in my opinion.

Step 5: Curing

Once the build is complete, let it cure according to the silicone manufacturer’s instructions (this is typically 24 hours, although 48 hours is likely better). If possible, continue to let it sit in a well-ventilated area. After the silicone has cured, remove the duct tape and layout angles. Remove any silicone drips or other debris.

Step 6: Test it Out!

With the build complete, it is time to test the sump! Fill the sump to the running water level (lowest baffle height). All baffles should hold, with no flexing or leaking (if it does, just drain, dry, reseal, and retest). If all looks good, then you’re all finished! It’s time to install it on the tank! Mine is shown below, with the tank draining into the left, flowing through a skimmer and live rock, under and over baffles, over a lighted refugium area with baffle, over a flex-use area with baffle, then down, under, and over baffles into the return section.