Assessing Coral Health: An Introduction

Diseased Coral

Even on a smaller scale than global reef decline, the ability to assess coral health is essential. I am often asked how I know where to even start to rescue corals. In my opinion, determining how healthy the coral is, or what the problem might be, is usually the first step. This is an introduction on assessing coral health to determine what might be causing the coral stress.

Assessing Coral Health for Stung Corals:

Stung Wellsophyllia Coral

Corals stung by another coral are probably the most easy to save. These corals are healthy overall, but a portion of them is damaged. As long the coral avoids infection and no further damage occurs, then healing is rather quick. When a coral “stings” another coral, the stung coral is sometimes actually “digested.” When corals have to compete for territory, they expel their digestive organs, called mesenterial filaments, and use them to digest a nearby coral. This typically results in one area of severe damage and no damage elsewhere. A coral stung this coral shown, but the remaining tissue was very healthy. You can read more about the Trachyphyllia’s recovery here.

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Lack of Proper Husbandry:

Water-Deteriorated Lobophyllia Coral

A lack of proper husbandry is typically a slow process. It can result in the tissue between polyps receding first. As shown here, portions of recent die-off right are beside healthy tissue and coralline-encrusted skeleton. With these corals, good water parameters are essential. Removal of invasive algae is also critical. These corals typically do not need much additional care. You can read more about this Lobophyllia’s recovery here.

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Assessing Poorly-Fragmented Corals:

Poorly Fragmented Euphyllia Coral

When a coral is improperly fragmented, various outcomes are possible depending on damage. Sometimes the tissue rips apart improperly, or the skeleton is crushed underneath intact tissue. As long as there is about half the polyp left, the coral typically survives with the natural healing process. This Euphyllia coral unfortunately became infected and died.

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Corals with Pest Damage or Parasites:

Acropora Coral with Parasites

Attempting to rescue an infected coral is risky, as it may infect other corals. This type of rescue requires a proper quarantine tank and medications on hand. Typically, once the pests and any eggs are removed, the coral will heal quickly on its own. Here, this infected Acropora has both Acropora-eating flatworms and red bugs (Tegastes acroporanus). With proper treatments to remove both pests, this coral made a full recovery.

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Assessing Coral Health due to Infections:

Infected Caulastrea Coral

Attempting to rescue infected corals can be dangerous, complex, and expensive. Any attempts require a dedicated hospital tank, proper supplies (including a microscope), and extensive knowledge in coral diseases and treatments. Furthermore, keeping a low expectation for coral survival is key. These infections vary by cause (e.g., bacterial, viral, fungal, ciliate, etc.), so the owner must tailor treatment to the cause. Determining the cause can be nearly impossible without the proper equipment. Any attempts also require the utmost caution, as some infections are transferable to humans. This coral shown had “brown jelly disease.”

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Bleached Corals:

Bleached

Coral bleaching also has a variety of causes, and knowledge of the cause can help determine possible solutions. Assessing a bleached coral’s health can be challenging as high light, chronic low light, high temperature, low temperature (rare cases), lack of oxygenation, and some infections can cause bleaching. Since a bleached coral is lacking its typical zooxanthallae population (the symbiotic algae that lives inside the coral’s tissues and produces food for the coral), it will need regular feedings. Unfortunately, in my experience, sometimes these corals never thrive again, even with coloration return.

The photo below shows several corals that were poisoned with household bleach. An angry customer poured it into a local fish store’s tanks, which killed all the livestock. I attempted to save everything that still had tissue, but even these corals eventually died.

Bleached Corals
Corals bleached with…bleach. These were the victims of an attack on a local fish store.

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Starved Corals:

Starving Dendrophyllia Coral

Although starvation is more commonly seen in non-photosynthetic corals (NPS), it is still possible in photosynthetic corals as well. This is more likely to occur in in ultra-low nutrient systems, also known as ULNS. Here, a Dendrophyllia coral is starving, shown by the algae-encrusted skeleton. Regular feedings are essential in these cases.

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Poisoned Corals:

Lithophyllon Coral in Quarantine

Poisoned corals usually have retracted tissue with areas of white skeleton showing. Tissue colors are usually brown or white, depending on the toxin. Any other typical colors (e.g., blues, reds, greens) are muted. This coral was poisoned by either the flatworm treatment a LFS used, or by the flatworm toxins themselves. You can read more about this coral’s amazing recovery here.

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As shown, coral health has a multitude of causes, and only a few examples were shown here. If you would like to continue learning about coral pathology, a more technical source is available on NOAA.

Dying Acropora Coral Rehabilitation

Acropora Rehabilitation Before and After

Back in 2012, I took in several corals from a fellow reefkeeper, knowing they were all rescues. Included in the bulk were a few dying Acropora corals that desperately needed rehabilitation. However, rehabilitating small polyp stony (SPS) corals has its own challenges, and in many cases, these sensitive corals may experience a more rapid death than their large polyp stony (LPS) counterparts. Below I will cover the initial inspection, diagnosis, treatment, for a complete dying Acropora coral rehabilitation.

Assessing Dying Coral Health:

Acropora Coral with Parasites

All dying Acropora coral were brown, not extending polyps, and had white marks on them. Upon initial inspection (and not shockingly), they had red bugs (Tegastes acroporanus) and Acropora-eating flatworms (AEFW). I treated the AEFW and red bugs with a series of coral dips as part of rehabilitation efforts. I also inadvertently subjected the tank to a reduced temperature (thanks power outage), which quite possibly killed the red bugs. (At the time, Interceptor was the normal protocol for treating red bugs, but there were also several other suitable treatments.)

Since AEFW lay eggs, it was critical to regularly inspect the coral and re-treat to completely eliminate the parasites. Thankfully, red bugs are live-bearers, so once they were initially eliminated, I no longer had to worry about them.

Quarantined Acropora Coral:

Acropora Rehabilitation

Of course, Acroporas require stable salinity, alkalinity, magnesium, calcium, etc. Given that I had over 50 corals undergoing rehabilitation at the time, my quarantine tank was not exactly a healthy aquarium. I had to focus particularly hard to make sure the other dying corals did not adversely affect the SPS. Water changes to remove excess nutrients were crucial. Once the Acropora parasites were gone, I maintained my alkalinity at 9 dKH, magnesium at 1350, and calcium at 450. I also performed 20% weekly water changes.

Previously Dying Acropora Coral Rehabilitated:

Healthy Acropora Coral

With stable parameters and a lack of parasites, this previously dying Acropora coral was quickly rehabilitated. They can heal quickly and add a beautiful touch to the aquarium. However, I don’t recommend Acropora rescues for beginners as they can have more severe pests than LPS corals, are sensitive to poor water conditions, and require careful monitoring of water parameters.

Acropora Coral with ParasitesHealthy Acropora Coral
Dying Acropora Coral Rehabilitation

Red Bug Parasites (Tegastes acroporanus)

Red Bugs Circled on Acropora Coral

Somehow back in the day, after over five years of having SPS-dominant aquariums, I got my first case of red bug parasites. A local aquarist was tearing down his system and gave me a few corals that weren’t doing well. Turns out, red bugs AND Acropora-eating flatworms (AEFW) infested the corals. Fortunately, I caught the red bugs while the Acropora was still in my quarantine tank.

Red Bugs Circled on Acropora Coral

Red bug parasites (Tegastes acroporanus) are extremely tiny copepods (as seen in the red circle in the photo) that solely infest Acropora corals (not Montipora, Pocillopora, etc.) They come into the hobby on wild or maricultured colonies (corals purposefully grown and harvested in controlled ocean environments), and hobbyist selling/trading of aquacultured corals further spreads them.

Acropora Coral with Parasites

A good indicator of a red bug infection is a loss of Acropora tip coloration and browning that cannot be attributed to other factors. Red bugs caused the coral shown to lose nearly all coloration, while AEFW caused the white patches.

In the early 2000’s (now I’m dating myself), there was a general consensus in the reefkeeping hobby that red bugs only affected smooth-skinned Acroporas. Hobbyists assumed they did not bother corals like Milleporas or “the green slimer” due to the extra mucus they produce. Although red bugs do tend to prefer certain Acropora (especially Acropora valida, the “tricolor”), most every Acropora species is susceptible. Hobbyists also commonly believed that red bugs laid eggs and had a larval stage. This led to a consensus that three treatments were needed in order to eliminate the red bugs entirely. Although research eventually determined that red bugs are live bearers, I still recommend three treatments just as a safety precaution.

How to Identify:

On Acropora corals that have “browned out” due to red bug presence, the red bugs are rather distinguishable. They are mostly yellow (almost a gold color) with a bright red dot. They are also extremely tiny at around 0.5mm (think a little bigger than the size of the period at the end of this sentence). Unfortunately, they are not easy to see on healthy corals, and they have an ability to hide within the coral polyp itself without being consumed. In order to determine the presence of red bugs, I use a magnifying glass to look for them before placement into my quarantine system. After that, I observe the coral daily for a week. I also take a photo of each coral and zoom in to look for anything I’ve missed.

How to Treat Red Bug Parasites:

Unlike other serious pests (e.g., Montipora-eating Nudibranchs), there is a suitable in-tank treatment for red bug parasites.

Method 1: Control

Some hobbyists believe that blowing the corals off with a powerhead a few times for a couple weeks will rid the Acropora of red bugs since they may starve before finding their way back to the coral. Other hobbyists rely on natural predation (e.g., pipe fish, file fish, gobies, wrasses), but to my knowledge, no predators have a 100% success rate. I advise against natural control methods for aquarists who plan to sell/trade their corals.

Method 2: Coral Dips

Coral dips often help stun the pests so they can be blown off gently with a pipette or powerhead. Since red bug parasites are live bearers, this method can work as long as all the red bugs are removed. Since a succession of coral dips work for AEFW and red bugs, I dip all Acroporas daily the first week. After that, I dip every other day the second week, every third day the third week, and then once a week for weeks four through six. I have not lost a single coral with this method, and it saves me the hassle of treating with different medications for different parasites at different times.

I should note that I’ve never found a pest after week two, but I still go the full six weeks since the lifecycle of AEFW is quite long (and I always treat for both AEFW and redbugs). Also, some dips can be extremely damaging to smooth-skinned corals, so please use caution if you plan to treat one of these.

Coral Dip Treatment Protocol for Red Bug Parasites:

Follow dip manufacturer instructions.

Method 3: Prescription Flea Medications

Before the manufacturer discontinued it, hobbyists considered Interceptor (milbemycin oxime), a prescription canine flea medication, as the golden standard for red bug parasite treatment. However, as it killed all shrimp, crabs, and other crustaceans, aquarists had to remove them before dosing (the pod population recovered with time). This die-off would also spike ammonia levels, so reefkeepers had to be prepared for a water change and to run carbon. Many people had difficulty obtaining Interceptor from their veterinarians since treating for red bugs is an off-label use. However, the Veterinary Information Network (VIN) published information on red bug parasites for reference.

Once Interceptor was no longer available, reefkeepers began searching for a replacement. Currently, Milbemax is the most often recommended replacement. It is a prescription combination of milbemycin and praziquantel. (The latter medication is commonly used for fluke treatment in reef tanks (e.g., PraziPro); however, it is a much lower dose than would be effective for common marine flukes).

Providing proof of infection to a veterinarian and asking him/her to look up red bugs on the VIN should be enough to receive the medication (or at least it was for us.) Some veterinarians have recommended different medications with different treatment protocol (e.g., MilbeMite Otic), so those individual cases are not discussed here. Unfortunately, many aquarists are finding some red bugs have a resistance to milbemycin. If you try it with no success, work with your veterinarian to find an alternate medication or try one of the other methods listed here.

Interceptor Treatment General Protocol for Red Bug Parasites:

(This is provided for historical purposes only since Interceptor is no longer available, as it may be relevant to other treatments.) Dustin Dorton of ORA determined 0.025 grams of Interceptor are needed per 10 gallons of water. After that, the protocol is the same as Milbemax, described below.

Milbemax Treatment General Protocol for Red Bug Parasites:

(Obtain actual procedures from a veterinarian, as this is for general reference only.) The recommended dosage is 23mg per 400g tank water, which works out to 0.0575mg per gallon tank water (or 5.75mg per 100 gallons if that is an easier reference point). Similar to Interceptor medication, pulverize and weigh the medication out as accurately as possible. Estimate the true volume of water as close as possible (subtracting live rock, sand, etc.)

Remove all crabs, shrimp, and other crustaceans from the aquarium before dosing. Turn down the skimmer so that water runs through it, but the skimmer doesn’t actually skim. Remove GFO and activated carbon. Add an airstone (or multiple, depending on the size of the tank) bubbling gently to help maintain the pH. Otherwise, allow everything else to run so that the chemical can spread throughout the aquarium. Dose the correct amount and let the system run for six hours.

After six hours, the red bugs should be gone, but if they are not, slightly adjust the dosage and try again in a few days. Perform a water change (~15-25%), turn the skimmer back up, and bring the GFO and carbon back online. As mentioned above, although red bugs are live bearers, three treatments a few days apart is still ideal. Once the red bugs are completely eradicated and the medication is removed, reintroduce the crabs, shrimp, and other crustaceans to the aquarium.

Method 4: Bayer Advanced Insecticide

WARNING: Per Bayer Advanced Insecticide’s labeling, “It is a violation of Federal law to use this product in a manner inconsistent with its labeling.”

Yes, this is the stuff you may have in your garage or at your local hardware store. Some aquarists use it as a dip only, not as an in-tank treatment. This website does not cover Bayer use as a coral dip, due to the warning above.

Bayer Advanced Insecticide
Bayer Advanced Insecticide

Method 5: Temperature Adjustment

With crazy heat in the summers, lowering the tank temperature may not be feasible. But for tanks located in basements during the winter, this may be the least expensive option. In fact, this method worked for me…accidentally! Right after I received the infested Acropora mentioned above, we lost power for about six hours. My quarantine tank got down to about 65 degrees (thanks to being in Utah in the middle of winter). After the power came back on, there were no signs of red bugs. I’m not the first to document this. I still continued treating for them just in case, but I never saw another one. This seems to work, but we still need scientific studies to back it up.

Experimental Temperature Treatment Protocol for Red Bug Parasites:

Slowly lower temperature to 65-66 degrees. If tank inhabitants start to show signs of stress, start bringing the temperature back up. Leave the temperature at 65-66 degrees for 4-6 hours. Note: this is experimental, and there is not enough data to determine if this treatment works 100% or is safe. Use with caution!

Conclusion:

Acropora Rehabilitation Before and After

Thanks to all the courageous mad scientist reefkeepers out there, there are several proven treatments for red bugs, including an in-tank treatment. The Acropora shown was saved from both red bugs and AEFW! Hopefully, with the increasing ease of treatment protocols, red bugs will be a thing of the past. Best of luck in your treatment!

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