Identification of Common Worms in Saltwater Aquaria

Christmas Tree Worms

The “Identification” series of posts is to help with identifying various critters in a typical saltwater aquarium (such as this post for identification of common worms) or to just see what you may come across one day.  Marine worms come in a vast array of sizes, shapes, colors, and desirability. Most of these shown were hitchhikers on corals and live rock.  These are all creatures I’ve come across on my own (not stock photos), so there’s a good chance that you may as well. Not all marine worms are good, so it’s extremely important to quarantine or at least dip. Hopefully these photos and accompanying information will help with your identification of common worms in saltwater aquaria.

Click on an image below to read more about the worm. [Note: Sometimes the links do not immediately load, in case you’re unable to select an image. Just scroll down.]

Phylum: Annelida

Class: Polychaeta

Order: Sabellida

“Feather Dusters” and “Cocoa Worms” (Sabellidae genera/Serpulidae genera) – Reef Safe:
Marine Feather Duster colony

Appearance: Feather dusters are filter-feeding worms that live in a paper-like or cement-like tube (often encased in rock or the sand.)  The “feathers” are called radioles, and cilia (finger-like projections) on the radioles move captured food particles and sediment to the center.  The sediment is used to build the tube. 

Behavior: Most that come in as hitchhikers will do just fine in the home aquarium (like the ones shown encased in the liverock), but larger ones sold at stores (like the “Coco Worms” shown below) often slowly perish in all but a few aquariums (likely from a lack of food).  Two problems are frequently encountered with feather dusters:  they leave their tube or drop the crown of feathers (worm remains in the tube).  Dropping the crown may suggest unsatisfactory water conditions or starvation.  Be patient, and the worm will likely regrow the crown when conditions improve (assuming the conditions do improve quickly).  If the worm leaves the tube, do not try to shove it back in.  Just leave it alone, and it will find a new spot in most cases. Basically, if you have a feather duster hitchhiker, place it in lower flow (cilia are more efficient) and enjoy it! (And be mindful of predators, as certain fish may find these as a tasty snack.)

Taxonomy: “Feather dusters” are in the Phylum Annelida, Class Polychaeta, Order Sabellida, and Family Sabellidae (usually soft-tubed) or Family Serpulidae (usually hard-tubed).

“Cocoa Worms” are in the Phylum Annelida, Class Polychaeta, Order Sabellida, Family Serpulidae, Genus Protula.

Feather Duster in Catalina Island, CA, USA
Feather Duster in Catalina Island, CA, USA

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“Christmas Tree Worms” (Spirobranchus spp.) – Reef Safe:
Christmas Tree Worms

Appearance: Christmas Tree Worms are gorgeous and live up to their names; they’re shaped like their namesake trees and come in a rainbow of colors.

Behavior: Changes to the local environment (e.g., sudden shade/light, different water flow) will cause these worms to quickly retract, which makes them a quirky novelty in the home aquarium. Unfortunately, their desirability in the hobby does not match their resiliency; they do not typically live long in the hobbyist aquarium (although, there are cases of explosive growth. Your mileage may vary.)

Taxonomy: Christmas Tree Worms are in the Phylum Annelida, Class Polychaeta, Order Sabellida, Family Serpulidae, Genus Spirobranchus.

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“Spirorbid Worms” (Spirorbis spp.) – Reef Safe:
Spirorbid feather worms in marine aquarium

Appearance: Spirorbid worms are super tiny, up to only a couple of millimeters in diameter. Their white shells curve around into a circle and are stationary upon the substrate (glass, shown here).

Behavior: These are essentially miniature hard-tube feather dusters that typically cover substrate in low-flow areas.  They are harmless filter feeders, but they can clog pumps and other equipment if their population gets out of control. And, they can create quite hard and sharp projections that can easily scratch skin, so use caution around them while conducting maintenance!

Taxonomy: Spirorbid worms are in the Phylum Annelida, Class Polychaeta, Order Sabellida, Family Serpulidae, and Genus Spirorbis.

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Order: Polychaeta

“Bristle Worms” (Polychaeta) – Reef Safe with Caution:
Harmless Bristleworms

“Bristle Worms” from a common-name perspective also apply to “Fire Worms” and just about any other Polychaeta class worm, as most worms with the prominent bristles just naturally get the former name (think of it like the “Unidentified Flying Object” (UFO) nomenclature of the ocean. If it has bristles, it’s a “bristle worm”). However, I’m using them as two separate names here, as the reefkeeping hobby does to help distinguish risk between the two main polychaetes encountered. (Note: These orange “bristle worms” shown are not “Oenone fulgida,” which are predatory.)

I have to admit, these things terrify me (they always have and always will). My husband has had quite a few chuckles from watching me doing the “heebie-jeebie” dance every time I nearly touch one. The stings from touching one are quite painful but can typically be resolved with home care (of course, seek professional medical attention when needed).

Appearance: The bristle worms shown here are long (about 2-6 inches in length, although they can be much shorter or longer), slender, and are covered in bristles used for movement (and probably protection, as a dual-function). They’re typically orange (sometimes described as pink, but my eyes don’t see it), and some are more gray/blue.

Behavior: Regardless of their scary outer appearance, these worms are scavengers. They eat detritus and decaying matter (e.g., dying fish, fish excrement, leftover fish food). If you see a bristle worm on a dead fish, the fish was likely dead when the worm came along (these rarely kill fish). However, some of these can become insanely huge and predatory. Removal is best for extremely large worms (i.e., over six inches long), such as the one in the photo below. Typically these larger bristle worms have more of a gray and dull orange hue, rather than the bright orange of the smaller ones.

Taxonomy: Both “bristle worms” and “fire worms” belong to the Phylum Annelida, Class Polychaeta. This is a very broad description to fit the vast number of different “bristle worms” found in aquaria.

Potentially predatorial bristleworm
Potentially predatorial bristleworm (about 12 inches long out-stretched)

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“Fire Worms” (Polychaeta) – Not Reef Safe:
Fireworm on Gorgonia coral

Compared to bristle worms, the fire worm is the dressy cousin that will eat everything in your home. Get it out. Thankfully, fire worms are not typically encountered in the aquarium hobby. In all of my years reefkeeping, I’ve never encountered one outside of scuba diving. In other words, if you are new to the hobby and find a scary looking worm, it’s probably just a harmless bristle worm.

Taxonomy: Both “bristle worms” and “fire worms” belong to the Phylum Annelida, Class Polychaeta.

  • Fireworm
  • Fireworm underside
  • Fireworm

And, if you still need help figuring out if the creepy-crawly in your tank is a bristle worm (in the typical hobbyist nomenclature) or a fire worm, here’s a side-by-side comparison:

Harmless BristlewormsFireworm
Side-by-Side Comparison of a Bristleworm (Left) and a Fireworm (Right)

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Dorvilleidae genera – Reef Safe:

Appearance: Dorvilleidae worms are small (about 1-2 inches in length), slender, segmented, and have hair-like structures used for movement.

Behavior: This cute little one falls under the “good” “bristle worm” category (actually, it’s technically a Eunicid worm), and similarly, is reef safe. It scavenges and feeds on detritus and often lives on the undersides of corals. In fact, I frequently notice some sneakily stealing food from my corals (but never in an aggressive manner).

Taxonomy: Dorvilleidae genera worms belong to the Phylum Annelida, Class Polychaeta, Order Eunicida, and Family Dorvilleidae.

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“Eunicid Worm” (Eunicidae genera) – Reef Safe with Extreme, Extreme, Extreme Caution:
Eunicid (Eunice) worm

Appearance: When looking for a true “bobbit worm,” look for a long, slender, and segmented worm that can range from an inch or so to well over a foot in length. They typically live in the sand or rockwork, hiding so as to ambush their prey. Look for a pinkish or reddish-brown hue on a darting worm that likely has a light-colored band below its head.

Behavior: Oh I’m sure I’ll get flamed for this one. As opposed to the nightmare-inducing “bobbit worm,” there are some Eunicid species that appear to stay small and non-problematic (e.g., the Dorvilleidae genera previously described). Like all opportunistic wild creatures, use extreme caution. The eunicid worm pictured lived in colonies of over a dozen under my corals, and they always stayed under two inches in length. While they didn’t directly bother my corals, they did frequently steal food from them. I monitored them for years with no negative indicators.

Taxonomy: Eunicid worms are in the Phylum Annelida, Class Polychaeta, Order Eunicida, and Family Eunicidae.

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Order: Terebellida

“Hair Worm” (Cirratulus spp.) – Reef Safe:

Appearance: With a quick glance, the “hair worms” are easily confused with “spaghetti worms” (the Terebellids), but hair worms have gills down the length of their bodies (the red squiggly lines are usually mistaken as tentacles or legs), whereas the spaghetti worms have gills extending from a single point.

Behavior: Hair worms free-live (no tube) within sediment and often extend their gills above the surface (along with their feeding palps). They’re harmless filter feeders and are considered a part of a healthy environment.

Taxonomy: Hair worms belong to the Phylum Annelida, Class Polychaeta, Order Terebellida, Family Cirratulidae, and Genus Cirratulus.

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Order: Sipuncula

“Peanut Worm” (Sipuncula families) – Reef Safe:
Peanut worm

Appearance: Despite its small size, it can stretch quite a long way. I’ll admit, the first time I saw a striped one stretching its way through my rockwork (it looks like an elephant’s trunk when outstretched), I definitely overreacted (thinking it was a eunicid worm or something else predatory).

Behavior: This Sipunculid worm is a harmless filter feeder.

Taxonomy: Peanuts worms are in the Phylum Annelida, Order Sipuncula.

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Phylum: Platyhelminthes

[Note: the phylum Platyhelminthes (like many classification labels) has waivered in and out of favor over the years due to various controversies. Please consult official taxonomic sources for reference.]

Class: Rhabditophora

Order: Polycladida

“Polyclad Flatworm” (Polycladida families) – Not Reef Safe:
Polyclad Worm

Appearance: Polyclad flatworms, such as this possible Pseudoceros sp. or Phrikoceros sp. one, are large, with some species reaching up to six inches. The ones most frequently encountered in the aquarium hobby are typically 3-4 inches in length and are translucent brown with a purplish hue.

Behavior: This is a very large, very predatory flatworm known to feed on snails and sometimes other mollusks (i.e., clams). They tend to camouflage well during the day and hunt at night. I had several of these come in on a coral, and it took about every chemical in my arsenal to kill them while in a dip, but I was unable to treat the eggs (photo of polyclad eggs). Once they make it in to the aquarium, they’re nearly impossible to remove chemically. Thankfully, several aquarists have reported success creating traps with frozen clams (although I have not personally confirmed this.)

Taxonomy: Polyclad Flatworms are in the Phylum Platyhelminthes, Class Rhabditophora, Order Polycladida. There are many different “polyclad” flatworms encountered in the hobby, such as the ones below, so this broad classification is intended to cover the most commonly encountered worms. If you have an identification for the worms below, please post in the comments! This will help in hobbyist identification of common worms.

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“Acropora-Eating Flatworms (AEFW)” (Prosthiostomum acropora) – Not Reef Safe:
Acropora Eating Flatworm (AEFW)

Appearance: AEFW, as shown, are small (few millimeters), flat, and translucent-brown. These flatworms blend in very well with whatever color the Acropora is, so bite marks are usually the most easily distinguishable clue (and their eggs are visible but tiny – see photo).

Behavior: These Prosthiostomum acroporae [formerly known as Amakusaplana acroporae] flatworms eat Acropora corals and reproduce rapidly.  If your Acroporas look sickly, inspect them for small white bite marks.   

Controls/Treatments: Various treatments exist, to include some natural controls. For more information on their lifecycle, see the References section.

Taxonomy: Acropora-Eating Flatworms (AEFW) are in the Phylum Platyhelminthes, class Rhabditophora, order Polycladida, Family Prosthiostomidae, Genus Prosthiostomum, and Species acroporae. There may be other “Acorpora-eating flatworms” of other species; the described species is the one most commonly encountered in the hobby.

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Phylum: Xenacoelomorpha

Order: Acoela

“Red Planaria” (Convolutriloba spp.) – Not Reef Safe

Appearance: “Red Planaria” flatworms can vary in appearance by species, but they are generally rust-brown with a more reddish tail area. They have a slightly pointed head area while moving with a distinguishing three-prong forked tail (as opposed to other aquarium flatworms lacking a forked tail – or ones with only two prongs). Note the slight bumps/lobes along the sides of the flatworm, as these may be present in some “red planaria.” Many of these flatworms are in the 1-3mm range (typically the C. retrogemma species), but the one pictured was approximately 6mm in length.

Behavior: The body shape of “red planaria” allow them to glide across the surfaces of an aquarium, to include over corals, which is not considered attractive (and may become detrimental to the coral). Mass mortality of “red planaria” flatworms is associated with toxicity to aquarium inhabitants; however, what this toxicity exactly is, is not well studied/documented.

Taxonomy: Funny enough, “red planaria” flatworms do not belong to the Planariidae family. They belong to the Phylum Xenacoelomorpha, Order Acoela, Family Convolutidae, and Genus Convolutriloba. The flatworm pictured is possibly Convolutriloba longifissura.

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“Pumpkin” or “Ring” Flatworms (Possible Waminoa spp.) – Reef Safe with Caution

Appearance: Various species of Waminoa flatworms have different common nicknames based on their appearances. Some look like pumpkins, while others have a distinctive ring. But, they have in common a very rounded body and a very thin cross-section. Length ranges from a few millimeters up to about half a centimeter. Their colors range from translucent grays to orangish-brown (and may include a white ring).

Behavior: These flatworms tend to congregate along the surfaces of coral. Some species feed upon the coral mucus.

Taxonomy: Waminoa spp. flatworms are the in Phylum Xenacoelamorpha, Order Acoela, Family Convolutidae, and Genus Waminoa. However, I’m not convinced these are Waminoa (despite lots of forums attributing flatworms of this appearance to Waminoa). Currently, the WORMS database only has two species associated with Waminoa, and neither resembles these flatworms. If you have an identification for the worms shown, please post in the comments! This will help in hobbyist identification of common worms.

For comparison, here are Convolutriloba sp. flatworms (circled in red) (likely C. retrogemma) alongside an undetermined flatworm species (often referenced as Waminoa; see above).

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Unknown Flatworms – Not Reef Safe
Possible Corallivorous Flatworms

Appearance: Contrasted with the similar-looking Waminoa spp. flatworms, these unidentified flatworms are much thicker and more opaque brown.

Behavior: I found these flatworms on a dying Catalaphyllia (“Elegance”) coral. They may have been harmlessly feeding on the coral mucus, but I didn’t take chances without a positive identification. Considering their coloration (similar to the coral) and their association with a dying coral (suspects), they are potentially corallivorous. Without better information, I give them a “not reef safe” rating.

Taxonomy: I am unsure of the taxonomy of these flatworms, but I assume they are somewhere within Phylum Xenacoelamorpha, Order Acoela. However, I was unable to find a good match within the WoRMS database. If you have an identification for the worms shown, please post in the comments! This will help in hobbyist identification of common worms.

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“Acoel Flatworm” – Reef Safe:
Acoel clear Flatworm

Appearance: Please forgive my atrocious photography here – and my Paint skills from back in whatever early-2000’s year it was. Acoel flatworms, like the one shown in green outline, are transparent, two-tailed reef-safe flatworms. Compared to “Red Planaria,” they’re two-to-three times larger. Note that these are *extremely* broadly named (reference Taxonomy), so they are often called “Ghost” flatworms due to their translucent appearance.

Behavior: They’re typically only found in small quantities and supposedly eat small pods. This is the only one I’ve ever knowingly encountered in my reefkeeping time.

Taxonomy: Acoel flatworms belong to the Phylum Xenacoelomorpha, Order Acoela.

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Heterochaerus sp. Flatworms – Reef Safe with Caution:

Appearance: Contrasted to the aforementioned acoel flatworms, these flatworms are brown instead of clear and are much smaller. Similarly, they have a forked tail.

Behavior: Contrasted with the aforementioned acoel flatworms, these seem much more content higher in the aquarium toward the light (photosynthetic).

Controls/Treatment: If I had to guess, Heterochaerus sp. flatworms are probably endemic to a majority of reef tanks and are just controlled to the point of acceptability. Although they can certainly reach plague proportions (without causing harm), a good fish population seems to keep them practically unnoticeable. Typical flatworm treatments (e.g., Flatworm Exit) do not work on them, at least not within manufacturer’s protocol.

Taxonomy: Heterochaerus sp. flatworms are in the Phylum Xenacoelomorpha (note the controversy with Platyhelminthes, stated above), Order Acoela, Family Convolutidae, and Genus Heterochaerus. Note that these are often referenced as Amphiscolops sp. flatworms, as many species within Amphiscolops were recategorized to Heterochaerus. Please use official taxonomy references for the latest information.

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Class: Trematoda

“Fluke Cercariae” (Bevisicula sp.) – Not Reef Safe:
Fluke cercariae

Appearance: These are free-swimming larvae, only a couple millimeters long, that have a forked tail for jerkily-swimming through the water. In the aquarium, they appear like bright red pods and may be found along the surface of the water.

Behavior: If you need nightmare fuel, read about my encounter with these fluke cercariae – fish parasites that use snails as an intermediate host. Their jerky-swimming, bright coloration, and penchant for the water surface may all be attributes to help them become fish food (and subsequent parasites within the fish).

Taxonomy: Thanks to Dr. Pieter Johnson, these are likely a species of Bivesicula (possibly B. caribbensis). They belong to the Phylum Platyhelminthes, Class Trematoda, Order Plagiorchiida, Family Bivesiculidae, Genus Bivesicula.

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Phylum: Nematoda

“Round Worms” (Nematode Worms): Typically Not Reef Safe
Nematode roundworm with dinoflagellates

Appearance: These round worms were only visible with a microscope and were tiny enough to fit through a coffee filter while testing for dinoflagellates (present in the photo).

Behavior: Roundworms do not have the best reputation, as they are often parasitic. I do not have an exact identification on these roundworms, but they were living within dinoflagellate masses.

Taxonomy: Nematodes are in the Phylum Nematoda.

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“Black Worms” – Reef Safe with Caution:
Tiny, Black Marine Reef Worms

Appearance: These worms were black and gray, only a few millimeters long, and were somewhat rounded.

Behavior: While I was cycling a fairly new tank, these extremely tiny black worms (shown on a piece of eggcrate) appeared in full force.  They appeared to only eat algae, and within a few weeks I never saw them again.  I assume they were herbivores, and as soon as the tank finished its cycle, the food supply ran out. I do not have an actual identification of them (yet). Other aquarists have noticed these in new aquariums as well, with no known long-term issues.

Taxonomy: They do appear to fit the description of “roundworms,” but their behavior (herbivorous) does not quite align. If you have an identification for the worms shown, please post in the comments! This will help in hobbyist identification of common worms.

Tiny Black Marine Worms covering Egg Crate
Tiny Black Marine Worms covering Egg Crate

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To Be Determined…

It’s a…something, alright. It moved, and it put out web-like strands. But which side was up, there was no telling. Please post in the comments if you have an identification!

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Not Worms:

Vermetid Snails – Reef Safe with Caution:
Vermetid Snail

The vermetid snail tube is easily confused with the tube from a feather duster; however, the former is a snail (mollusk) rather than a worm (although I’ve applied that terminology pretty broadly in this post). For more information on vermetids and other snails, check out this reference guide.

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References:

  • Barton, Jonathan A., et al. “The life cycle of the Acropora coral-eating flatworm (AEFW), Prosthiostomum acroporae; the influence of temperature and management guidelines.” Frontiers in Marine Science, vol. 6, 4 Sept. 2019. Link
  • Rawlinson, K. A., “The diversity, development and evolution of polyclad flatworm larvae.” Evodevo 5:9, 2014.
  • Rawlinson, K. A., Gillis, J. A., Billings, R. E. Jr., and Borneman, E. H., “Taxonomy and life history of the Acropora-eating flatworm Amakusaplana acroporae nov. sp. (Polycladida: Prosthiostomidae),” Coral Reefs 30, 693–705, 2011.

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Coral Inspection, Dips, and Quarantine

Acropora in Coral Dip

A blog on coral rehabilitation is quite useless without a discussion on basic coral evaluation; a proper coral inspection, dip, and quarantine procedure deserves recognition. While there are many differing views on how and what to quarantine, this is my approach. If it seems a bit neurotic and obsessive, well, that’s because I’m taking in some of the most sick corals in the hobby. Hopefully learning from the worst case can help for the best. Find what works for you, and stick with it.

The Preparation:

Fish Room

Before bringing home dying coral, I have an established reef aquarium that I keep running continuously with no fish (this helps prevent Cryptocaryon irritans infestations or other outbreaks in my aquariums). Contrary to popular belief, long-term survivability of a reef tank without fish is quite easy (I’m measuring success in terms of years without fish). Lighting must also be adequate for what you intend to keep. A good skimmer should not be overlooked as well. If the tank will be a hospital tank, then a carbon reactor is essential to help remove coral mucus. Basically, this aquarium system does not have to be fancy or have all the frills. It just has to work. I’ve had many different quarantine setups over the years, and the best were always the ones that were the easiest to maintain. Honestly, most of my quarantine tanks just received the “hand-me-downs” from my other tanks. The coral rehabilitation system fish room shown was circa 2012.

The Acquisition:

I obtain my corals from everywhere, but I only recommend purchasing them from reputable vendors/hobbyists. Each of my coral acquisitions is worked out individually with the owner (e.g., sometimes I pay, trade, or make other arrangements) on a case-by-case basis. Regardless of the source, I inspect every coral visually for pests, nuisance algae, or hitchhikers prior to purchase to assess probability of survival. Depending on the coral species, I may look for pest-specific parasites (e.g., Acropora-eating flatworm bite marks (AEFW), red bugs on Acropora, Montipora-eating nudibranchs). Once the coral arrives home I acclimate it into the quarantine tank.

Coral Dips and Inspections:

Acclimation:

Acclimations are short (approximately 15 minutes for temperature adjustment), unless I have a specific reason for a prolonged drip. These corals are often damaged through poor water conditions in their previous home, so it is typically best to remove them from the cause as quickly as safely possible. If they were damaged from other causes (e.g., high light, stinging), then a short acclimation is not as important. After the coral is acclimated, I open the bag and put the coral in one cup of tank water in a separate container. For this part, I absolutely love my Magnetic Stirrer Coral Dip Station and my DIY face shield.

Coral Dip Magnetic Stirrer Station
Coral Dip Magnetic Stirrer Station

Coral Inspection and Diagnosis:

At this point, I perform a more thorough inspection to provide me with a usable “diagnosis” (again, I’m not a medical professional, but having an idea of what is wrong is still critical.) This “diagnosis” helps me determine how to treat the coral. For example, if the coral is bleached, I try to look for other markers to determine why (e.g., high light, extremely low light, poor water quality, disease), so I can arrange the most appropriate treatment (e.g., correct husbandry, additional feedings, disease treatment). The flowchart below depicts my typical “triage,” where I try to determine the most appropriate reaction as quickly as possible. This process helps when I bring home a cooler full of dying corals; I have to prioritize treatments and move fast.

Dying Coral Triage
Dying Coral Triage

The coral is then removed from the plug/base, and all dead skeleton is removed as much as possible. I find this especially critical for rescue corals. In my experience, corals have an easier time growing new skeleton rather than growing over old, especially if the old skeleton has sharp edges. If the coral was placed in strong current, the coral’s tissue could catch on a sharp edge of its old skeleton and rip. In cases where removing all excess rock/ skeleton would harm the coral further (example below – the coral’s tissue was not stable enough to cut the skeleton with a band saw), I just trim down any sharp points.

Stung Wellsophyllia Coral
Stung Wellsophyllia Coral

Coral Dips:

Hydrogen Peroxide Coral Dip:

First, all LPS coral receive a dip in a mixture of hydrogen peroxide and tank water. This helps kill off some nuisance algae and some pests. Hydrogen peroxide isn’t great for the coral tissue itself (prevents calcification), but it isn’t immediate death either. I just use the normal 3% pharmacy-grade type, as the high-strength hydrogen peroxide is very dangerous (can cause blindness in humans). The ratio I use depends on the coral’s condition, but a 10:1 tank water:hydrogen peroxide (3%) is fairly safe on LPS corals for about 20 seconds. In severe cases, I go up to 4:1 for 60 seconds, but I rarely recommend this.

CoralRx, Iodine, and Other Dips:

Second, all corals except smooth-skinned Acropora (they die frequently) are treated with one milliliter of CoralRx mixed with the one cup of tank water (or scaled to the size of the coral). Smooth-skinned Acropora are instead treated with Lugol’s Iodine mixed to manufacturer’s instructions. There are other suitable coral dips, but CoralRx is what I prefer (no real reason – it works, and I haven’t found a reason to switch).

Corals in Dip

The small amount of water volume limits where pests can hide after the dip draws them out. While the coral is sitting in the dip, I use a pipette to gently baste the coral to blow any remaining pests out of the crevices. I also use a magnifying glass to identify the hitchhikers.

Acropora in Coral Dip

If I find any pests or evidence of them (bite marks or eggs, like this Acropora coral with AEFW), then I will do an additional pest-specific treatment. I keep all treatment medications on hand so I never find myself looking for drugs at an odd hour (hmm…that sounds bad…).

Aquarium Medications
Aquarium Medications (circa 2012 – oh, how this has grown over the years!)

After dip time is completed, the corals are rinsed with quarantine aquarium water (NOT the bag water.)

Final Coral Preparation:
Dying Orange Fungia Plate Coral

After the peroxide dip, if there is any ripped or cut tissue, I place a small amount of superglue gel along the line (as shown on the Fungia coral). This helps prevent water flow from literally ripping the tissue off the coral. Superglue gel reacts with water to form a type of plastic mesh. However, this reaction is exothermic, which means it releases heat. This can cause cell death, so extreme care should be used. That’s why I prefer wound-grade superglue gel, like Liquid Skin or Vetbond (this is pricey, especially considering when I get my regular superglue gel from the dollar store, but the medical type is worth it in these cases). I also seal any remaining skeleton or base rock in regular super glue. This way, if there are any remaining pests or algae spores, they will have a hard time getting past the glue barrier. The coral will quickly grow over the super glue, and within about a month the super glue should not be noticeable.

Coral Quarantine Tank:

Quarantine System

Corals are then transferred to the quarantine tank where they will stay for at least 30 days. During that time I visually inspect each coral about every three days for pests/bite marks/and overall health.

During this time, it is essential to keep hermit crabs, cleaner shrimp, and the like away from the coral. These critters will go after the dying tissue and often take away healthy tissue in the process, which can quickly lead to the coral’s demise. It is especially essential to keep them away during feeding, as the process of stealing food from a coral’s mouth can be extremely damaging.

Lighting and flow should be kept low to allow the coral to acclimate. However, the flow rate must be high enough to keep the coral mucus from building up on the coral.

Coral Grow-out Tank:

After the 30 days, I go through the entire dipping process again. Also, if the corals weren’t stable enough to have the excess skeleton/ base cut, I do that at this point. The corals then go into a grow-out tank/secondary quarantine where they live for another 30 days. After those 30 days, I repeat the dipping process a third time. But, I leave the entire base of the coral or a nice fragment of the coral in the grow-out tank. This allows me to have a healthy backup in case I lose my main colony. The main colony is moved to the main display after the dipping process or fragmented for sharing.

Grow-out Aquarium for Rehabilitated Corals
Grow-out Aquarium for Rehabilitated Corals

Coral Inspection, Dips, and Quarantine Conclusion:

Yes, it takes a whopping 60 days for a coral to make it to my main display. But, through a proper process of coral inspections, dips, and quarantine, I can rest assured that I minimize pests and nuisance algae. I will not have to rip out my corals to treat for AEFW or go almost two years without Montipora corals to treat for Monti-eating Nudibranchs. “An ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure.” I can also sell my coral clippings knowing I’m providing a very healthy specimen to another hobbyist.

No matter where you buy a coral from, always quarantine. Do not trust anyone, even me. Everyone makes mistakes, and sometimes even a backup safety fails. You do not have to quarantine like I do, but any amount is better than nothing. I hope this post provides some insight on how to improve your procedures.

Assessing Coral Health: An Introduction

Coral Disease Assessment: Dark Spot Syndrome with purple lesions

Even on a smaller scale than global reef decline, the ability to assess coral health is essential. I am often asked how I know where to even start to rescue corals. In my opinion, determining how healthy the coral is, or what the problem might be, is usually the first step. This is an introduction on assessing coral health to determine what might be causing the coral stress.

Assessing Coral Health for Stung Corals:

Stung Wellsophyllia Coral

Corals stung by another coral are probably the most easy to save. These corals are healthy overall, but a portion of them is damaged. As long the coral avoids infection and no further damage occurs, then healing is rather quick. When a coral “stings” another coral, the stung coral is sometimes actually “digested.” When corals have to compete for territory, they expel their digestive organs, called mesenterial filaments, and use them to digest a nearby coral. This typically results in one area of severe damage and no damage elsewhere. A coral stung this coral shown, but the remaining tissue was very healthy. You can read more about the Trachyphyllia’s recovery here.

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Lack of Proper Husbandry:

Water-Deteriorated Lobophyllia Coral

A lack of proper husbandry is typically a slow process. It can result in the tissue between polyps receding first. As shown here, portions of recent die-off right are beside healthy tissue and coralline-encrusted skeleton. With these corals, good water parameters are essential. Removal of invasive algae is also critical. These corals typically do not need much additional care. You can read more about this Lobophyllia’s recovery here.

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Assessing Poorly-Fragmented Corals:

Poorly Fragmented Euphyllia Coral

When a coral is improperly fragmented, various outcomes are possible depending on damage. Sometimes the tissue rips apart improperly, or the skeleton is crushed underneath intact tissue. As long as there is about half the polyp left, the coral typically survives with the natural healing process. This Euphyllia coral unfortunately became infected and died.

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Corals with Pest Damage or Parasites:

Acropora Coral with Parasites

Attempting to rescue an infected coral is risky, as it may infect other corals. This type of rescue requires a proper quarantine tank and medications on hand. Typically, once the pests and any eggs are removed, the coral will heal quickly on its own. Here, this infected Acropora has both Acropora-eating flatworms and red bugs (Tegastes acroporanus). With proper treatments to remove both pests, this coral made a full recovery.

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Assessing Coral Health due to Infections:

Infected Caulastrea Coral

Attempting to rescue infected corals can be dangerous, complex, and expensive. Any attempts require a dedicated hospital tank, proper supplies (including a microscope), and extensive knowledge in coral diseases and treatments. Furthermore, keeping a low expectation for coral survival is key. These infections vary by cause (e.g., bacterial, viral, fungal, ciliate, etc.), so the owner must tailor treatment to the cause. Determining the cause can be nearly impossible without the proper equipment. Any attempts also require the utmost caution, as some infections are transferable to humans. This coral shown had “brown jelly disease.”

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Bleached Corals:

Bleached

Coral bleaching also has a variety of causes, and knowledge of the cause can help determine possible solutions. Assessing a bleached coral’s health can be challenging as high light, chronic low light, high temperature, low temperature (rare cases), lack of oxygenation, and some infections can cause bleaching. Since a bleached coral is lacking its typical zooxanthallae population (the symbiotic algae that lives inside the coral’s tissues and produces food for the coral), it will need regular feedings. Unfortunately, in my experience, sometimes these corals never thrive again, even with coloration return.

The photo below shows several corals that were poisoned with household bleach. An angry customer poured it into a local fish store’s tanks, which killed all the livestock. I attempted to save everything that still had tissue, but even these corals eventually died.

Bleached Corals
Corals bleached with…bleach. These were the victims of an attack on a local fish store.

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Starved Corals:

Starving Dendrophyllia Coral

Although starvation is more commonly seen in non-photosynthetic corals (NPS), it is still possible in photosynthetic corals as well. This is more likely to occur in in ultra-low nutrient systems, also known as ULNS. Here, a Dendrophyllia coral is starving, shown by the algae-encrusted skeleton. Regular feedings are essential in these cases.

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Poisoned Corals:

Lithophyllon Coral in Quarantine

Poisoned corals usually have retracted tissue with areas of white skeleton showing. Tissue colors are usually brown or white, depending on the toxin. Any other typical colors (e.g., blues, reds, greens) are muted. This coral was poisoned by either the flatworm treatment a LFS used, or by the flatworm toxins themselves. You can read more about this coral’s amazing recovery here.

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As shown, coral health has a multitude of causes, and only a few examples were shown here. If you would like to continue learning about coral pathology, a more technical source is available on NOAA.

Dying Acropora Coral Rehabilitation

Acropora Rehabilitation Before and After

Back in 2012, I took in several corals from a fellow reefkeeper, knowing they were all rescues. Included in the bulk were a few dying Acropora corals that desperately needed rehabilitation. However, rehabilitating small polyp stony (SPS) corals has its own challenges, and in many cases, these sensitive corals may experience a more rapid death than their large polyp stony (LPS) counterparts. Below I will cover the initial inspection, diagnosis, treatment, for a complete dying Acropora coral rehabilitation.

Assessing Dying Coral Health:

Acropora Coral with Parasites

All dying Acropora coral were brown, not extending polyps, and had white marks on them. Upon initial inspection (and not shockingly), they had red bugs (Tegastes acroporanus) and Acropora-eating flatworms (AEFW). I treated the AEFW and red bugs with a series of coral dips as part of rehabilitation efforts. I also inadvertently subjected the tank to a reduced temperature (thanks power outage), which quite possibly killed the red bugs. (At the time, Interceptor was the normal protocol for treating red bugs, but there were also several other suitable treatments.)

Since AEFW lay eggs, it was critical to regularly inspect the coral and re-treat to completely eliminate the parasites. Thankfully, red bugs are live-bearers, so once they were initially eliminated, I no longer had to worry about them.

Quarantined Acropora Coral:

Acropora Rehabilitation

Of course, Acroporas require stable salinity, alkalinity, magnesium, calcium, etc. Given that I had over 50 corals undergoing rehabilitation at the time, my quarantine tank was not exactly a healthy aquarium. I had to focus particularly hard to make sure the other dying corals did not adversely affect the SPS. Water changes to remove excess nutrients were crucial. Once the Acropora parasites were gone, I maintained my alkalinity at 9 dKH, magnesium at 1350, and calcium at 450. I also performed 20% weekly water changes.

Previously Dying Acropora Coral Rehabilitated:

Healthy Acropora Coral

With stable parameters and a lack of parasites, this previously dying Acropora coral was quickly rehabilitated. They can heal quickly and add a beautiful touch to the aquarium. However, I don’t recommend Acropora rescues for beginners as they can have more severe pests than LPS corals, are sensitive to poor water conditions, and require careful monitoring of water parameters.

Acropora Coral with ParasitesHealthy Acropora Coral
Dying Acropora Coral Rehabilitation

Red Bug Parasites (Tegastes acroporanus)

Red Bugs Circled on Acropora Coral

Somehow back in the day, after over five years of having SPS-dominant aquariums, I got my first case of red bug parasites. A local aquarist was tearing down his system and gave me a few corals that weren’t doing well. Turns out, red bugs AND Acropora-eating flatworms (AEFW) infested the corals. Fortunately, I caught the red bugs while the Acropora was still in my quarantine tank.

Red Bugs Circled on Acropora Coral

Red bug parasites (Tegastes acroporanus) are extremely tiny copepods (as seen in the red circle in the photo) that solely infest Acropora corals (not Montipora, Pocillopora, etc.) They come into the hobby on wild or maricultured colonies (corals purposefully grown and harvested in controlled ocean environments), and hobbyist selling/trading of aquacultured corals further spreads them.

Acropora Coral with Parasites

A good indicator of a red bug infection is a loss of Acropora tip coloration and browning that cannot be attributed to other factors. Red bugs caused the coral shown to lose nearly all coloration, while AEFW caused the white patches.

In the early 2000’s (now I’m dating myself), there was a general consensus in the reefkeeping hobby that red bugs only affected smooth-skinned Acroporas. Hobbyists assumed they did not bother corals like Milleporas or “the green slimer” due to the extra mucus they produce. Although red bugs do tend to prefer certain Acropora (especially Acropora valida, the “tricolor”), most every Acropora species is susceptible. Hobbyists also commonly believed that red bugs laid eggs and had a larval stage. This led to a consensus that three treatments were needed in order to eliminate the red bugs entirely. Although research eventually determined that red bugs are live bearers, I still recommend three treatments just as a safety precaution.

How to Identify:

On Acropora corals that have “browned out” due to red bug presence, the red bugs are rather distinguishable. They are mostly yellow (almost a gold color) with a bright red dot. They are also extremely tiny at around 0.5mm (think a little bigger than the size of the period at the end of this sentence). Unfortunately, they are not easy to see on healthy corals, and they have an ability to hide within the coral polyp itself without being consumed. In order to determine the presence of red bugs, I use a magnifying glass to look for them before placement into my quarantine system. After that, I observe the coral daily for a week. I also take a photo of each coral and zoom in to look for anything I’ve missed.

How to Treat Red Bug Parasites:

Unlike other serious pests (e.g., Montipora-eating Nudibranchs), there is a suitable in-tank treatment for red bug parasites.

Method 1: Control

Some hobbyists believe that blowing the corals off with a powerhead a few times for a couple weeks will rid the Acropora of red bugs since they may starve before finding their way back to the coral. Other hobbyists rely on natural predation (e.g., pipe fish, file fish, gobies, wrasses), but to my knowledge, no predators have a 100% success rate. I advise against natural control methods for aquarists who plan to sell/trade their corals.

Method 2: Coral Dips

Coral dips often help stun the pests so they can be blown off gently with a pipette or powerhead. Since red bug parasites are live bearers, this method can work as long as all the red bugs are removed. Since a succession of coral dips work for AEFW and red bugs, I dip all Acroporas daily the first week. After that, I dip every other day the second week, every third day the third week, and then once a week for weeks four through six. I have not lost a single coral with this method, and it saves me the hassle of treating with different medications for different parasites at different times.

I should note that I’ve never found a pest after week two, but I still go the full six weeks since the lifecycle of AEFW is quite long (and I always treat for both AEFW and redbugs). Also, some dips can be extremely damaging to smooth-skinned corals, so please use caution if you plan to treat one of these.

Coral Dip Treatment Protocol for Red Bug Parasites:

Follow dip manufacturer instructions.

Method 3: Prescription Flea Medications

Before the manufacturer discontinued it, hobbyists considered Interceptor (milbemycin oxime), a prescription canine flea medication, as the golden standard for red bug parasite treatment. However, as it killed all shrimp, crabs, and other crustaceans, aquarists had to remove them before dosing (the pod population recovered with time). This die-off would also spike ammonia levels, so reefkeepers had to be prepared for a water change and to run carbon. Many people had difficulty obtaining Interceptor from their veterinarians since treating for red bugs is an off-label use. However, the Veterinary Information Network (VIN) published information on red bug parasites for reference.

Once Interceptor was no longer available, reefkeepers began searching for a replacement. Currently, Milbemax is the most often recommended replacement. It is a prescription combination of milbemycin and praziquantel. (The latter medication is commonly used for fluke treatment in reef tanks (e.g., PraziPro); however, it is a much lower dose than would be effective for common marine flukes).

Providing proof of infection to a veterinarian and asking him/her to look up red bugs on the VIN should be enough to receive the medication (or at least it was for us.) Some veterinarians have recommended different medications with different treatment protocol (e.g., MilbeMite Otic), so those individual cases are not discussed here. Unfortunately, many aquarists are finding some red bugs have a resistance to milbemycin. If you try it with no success, work with your veterinarian to find an alternate medication or try one of the other methods listed here.

Interceptor Treatment General Protocol for Red Bug Parasites:

(This is provided for historical purposes only since Interceptor is no longer available, as it may be relevant to other treatments.) Dustin Dorton of ORA determined 0.025 grams of Interceptor are needed per 10 gallons of water. After that, the protocol is the same as Milbemax, described below.

Milbemax Treatment General Protocol for Red Bug Parasites:

(Obtain actual procedures from a veterinarian, as this is for general reference only.) The recommended dosage is 23mg per 400g tank water, which works out to 0.0575mg per gallon tank water (or 5.75mg per 100 gallons if that is an easier reference point). Similar to Interceptor medication, pulverize and weigh the medication out as accurately as possible. Estimate the true volume of water as close as possible (subtracting live rock, sand, etc.)

Remove all crabs, shrimp, and other crustaceans from the aquarium before dosing. Turn down the skimmer so that water runs through it, but the skimmer doesn’t actually skim. Remove GFO and activated carbon. Add an airstone (or multiple, depending on the size of the tank) bubbling gently to help maintain the pH. Otherwise, allow everything else to run so that the chemical can spread throughout the aquarium. Dose the correct amount and let the system run for six hours.

After six hours, the red bugs should be gone, but if they are not, slightly adjust the dosage and try again in a few days. Perform a water change (~15-25%), turn the skimmer back up, and bring the GFO and carbon back online. As mentioned above, although red bugs are live bearers, three treatments a few days apart is still ideal. Once the red bugs are completely eradicated and the medication is removed, reintroduce the crabs, shrimp, and other crustaceans to the aquarium.

Method 4: Bayer Advanced Insecticide

WARNING: Per Bayer Advanced Insecticide’s labeling, “It is a violation of Federal law to use this product in a manner inconsistent with its labeling.”

Yes, this is the stuff you may have in your garage or at your local hardware store. Some aquarists use it as a dip only, not as an in-tank treatment. This website does not cover Bayer use as a coral dip, due to the warning above.

Bayer Advanced Insecticide
Bayer Advanced Insecticide

Method 5: Temperature Adjustment

With crazy heat in the summers, lowering the tank temperature may not be feasible. But for tanks located in basements during the winter, this may be the least expensive option. In fact, this method worked for me…accidentally! Right after I received the infested Acropora mentioned above, we lost power for about six hours. My quarantine tank got down to about 65 degrees (thanks to being in Utah in the middle of winter). After the power came back on, there were no signs of red bugs. I’m not the first to document this. I still continued treating for them just in case, but I never saw another one. This seems to work, but we still need scientific studies to back it up.

Experimental Temperature Treatment Protocol for Red Bug Parasites:

Slowly lower temperature to 65-66 degrees. If tank inhabitants start to show signs of stress, start bringing the temperature back up. Leave the temperature at 65-66 degrees for 4-6 hours. Note: this is experimental, and there is not enough data to determine if this treatment works 100% or is safe. Use with caution!

Conclusion:

Acropora Rehabilitation Before and After

Thanks to all the courageous mad scientist reefkeepers out there, there are several proven treatments for red bugs, including an in-tank treatment. The Acropora shown was saved from both red bugs and AEFW! Hopefully, with the increasing ease of treatment protocols, red bugs will be a thing of the past. Best of luck in your treatment!

Identification of Marine Eggs

Cerith Snail Eggs

A single dot, a squiggle of white, a floating orange ball – marine eggs come in all shapes, sizes, and colors! Of course, the easiest way to tell what it could grow up to be is to find mom nearby, but that’s not always possible. These are just a few of the most common eggs found in an aquarium to help you with the identification of marine eggs.

Berghia Nudibranch Eggs (Berghia verrucicornis) – Reef Safe:

Berghia Nudibranch Eggs

Anyone plagued by Aiptasia sp. anemones needs to know about Berghia nudibranchs. These nudibranchs only eat Aiptasia anemones, and they produce an egg sac like the one pictured every few days. Below, a microscope image shows the developing nudibranchs, along with grown adults.

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Nerite Snail Eggs (Nerita sp.) – Reef Safe:

Nerite Snail Eggs

Nerite snails are a great snail, but I only know of one person who had nerite eggs hatch and grow successfully to adults (in other words, most eggs do not become adults…or even make it to juveniles.) The eggs look like white sesame seeds and are sometimes found singularly or in small groups (like the four in the photo below). Read more about snails here!

Nerite Snail with Eggs
Nerite Snail with Eggs

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Collumbellid Snails…AKA Hawaiian Strombus Snails…AKA Strombus maculatus – Reef Safe:

Collumbellid Snail Eggs

Ok, so maybe the taxonomy isn’t entirely straightened out on this snail yet, but regardless of name, they’re great snails. As you can see by the multiple egg sacs, they reproduce faster than rabbits. If you’re sick of buying snails, then these are your best choice in my opinion. They graze over rocks and on glass, stay small, and their population waxes and wanes with food supply. Read more about snails here!

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Nassarius Snail Eggs (Nassarius sp.) – Reef Safe:

Nassarius Snail Eggs

Nassarius snails produce various egg patterns, depending on species. Some of them produce some of the most beautiful “fan” patterns of marine eggs, but others leave these small individual sacs. Read more about snails here!

Tonga Nassarius Snail
Tonga Nassarius Snail

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Cerith Snail Eggs (Cerithium sp.) – Reef Safe:

Cerith Snail Eggs

Cerith snails are a beneficial part of a reef tank clean-up crew. They reproduce in captivity to some extent (some aquarists have more success than others, and the juveniles make it to adulthood in small numbers). The egg pattern is very distinctive, as shown with the
mother (and possibly father). The egg pattern will vary by species, but most have something similar to this white swerving pattern or the fuzzy white string below. Read more about snails here!

Cerith Snail Eggs

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Stomatella Snails (Stomatella sp.) – Reef Safe:

Stomatella Broadcast Spawning

Stomatella snails are hands-down my favorite snail. They come in nearly all colors (like the black one and speckled one below, but also in red, silver, green, etc.) They frequently enter an aquarium as a hitchhiker, scour the tank for algae, and then reproduce prolifically. They’re broadcast spawners, so they reproduce by climbing high in the aquarium and releasing small puffs of sperm and eggs which look like smoke.

Although the stomatella snail can’t be seen in the photo with the Scolymia coral, there is one hiding under the coral releasing either sperm or eggs (white smoke-looking mass to the left of the
Scolymia). This event lasted about 3 minutes. Unfortunately, I’ve had a hard time determining their life cycle times since they constantly have new batches of babies. Read more about snails here!

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Conch (Strombus sp.) – Reef Safe:

Queen Conch Eggs

I had (what I assume to be) a mated pair of fighting conchs that regularly laid eggs. Unfortunately, I never had success raising these in captivity. Read more about conchs here!

Conch
Conch

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Acropora-eating Flatworms (Amakusaplana acroporae) – Not Reef Safe:

Acropora Eating Flatworm (AEFW) Eggs

As the common name implies, these flatworms only eat Acropora corals. Although they usually lay their eggs directly on the Acropora corals, the eggs can sometimes be found near Acropora corals, like on a frag plug in the photo.

Acropora Eating Flatworm (AEFW)
Acropora Eating Flatworm (AEFW)

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Polyclad Flatworm – Not Reef Safe:

Polyclad Worm Eggs

These massive flatworms are not reef safe due to their predatory behavior. I found one of these flatworms inside a hole in the live rock attached to a coral along with the marine eggs shown. Although I am not 100% certain the eggs are from the flatworm, there were no other large invertebrates within the live rock. Additionally, the eggs resembled very large Acropora-eating Flatworm (AEFW) eggs, another polyclad flatworm species.

Polyclad Worm
Polyclad Worm

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Gall Crab Eggs – Reef Safe with Caution:

Female Gall Crab

There is quite a bit of debate over whether gall crabs are reef safe, but I, personally, have not experienced any issues. The female builds a small hole in live rock, and corals grow around the crab. Since sick corals often contain gall crab inhabitants, the crabs are often blamed for the coral’s ill health. I should note that extremely large, healthy corals in the wild house gall crabs with no noticeable problems. The female shown is carrying eggs (in yellow).

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Coral Eggs – Reef Safe:

Tubastrea Coral Eggs

Coral eggs, like the Tubastrea coral eggs shown, are typically orange balls. The coral below actually started spawning while in a coral dip!

Tubastrea Coral Eggs
Tubastrea Coral Eggs

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Unknown Marine Eggs

Unknown Marine Eggs

Marine egg diversity is vast, as shown by another pattern here. What eggs have you found in your tank?

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