reefdup, Author at Coral Ever After

Coral Inspection, Dips, and Quarantine

reefdup How To, Rehabilitation February 25, 2022October 16, 2022acclimation, AEFW, coral dip, CoralRx, diagnosis, Dying Coral, gluing coral, grow-out, hydrogen peroxide, quarantine, Rehabilitation, Rescue Coral, superglue 9 Comments

A blog on coral rehabilitation is quite useless without a discussion on basic coral evaluation; a proper coral inspection, dip, and quarantine procedure deserves recognition. While there are many differing views on how and what to quarantine, this is my approach. If it seems a bit neurotic and obsessive, well, that’s because I’m taking in some of the most sick corals in the hobby. Hopefully learning from the worst case can help for the best. Find what works for you, and stick with it.

The Preparation:

Before bringing home dying coral, I have an established reef aquarium that I keep running continuously with no fish (this helps prevent Cryptocaryon irritans infestations or other outbreaks in my aquariums). Contrary to popular belief, long-term survivability of a reef tank without fish is quite easy (I’m measuring success in terms of years without fish). Lighting must also be adequate for what you intend to keep. A good skimmer should not be overlooked as well. If the tank will be a hospital tank, then a carbon reactor is essential to help remove coral mucus. Basically, this aquarium system does not have to be fancy or have all the frills. It just has to work. I’ve had many different quarantine setups over the years, and the best were always the ones that were the easiest to maintain. Honestly, most of my quarantine tanks just received the “hand-me-downs” from my other tanks. The coral rehabilitation system fish room shown was circa 2012.

The Acquisition:

I obtain my corals from everywhere, but I only recommend purchasing them from reputable vendors/hobbyists. Each of my coral acquisitions is worked out individually with the owner (e.g., sometimes I pay, trade, or make other arrangements) on a case-by-case basis. Regardless of the source, I inspect every coral visually for pests, nuisance algae, or hitchhikers prior to purchase to assess probability of survival. Depending on the coral species, I may look for pest-specific parasites (e.g., Acropora-eating flatworm bite marks (AEFW), red bugs on Acropora, Montipora-eating nudibranchs). Once the coral arrives home I acclimate it into the quarantine tank.

Coral Dips and Inspections:

Acclimation:

Acclimations are short (approximately 15 minutes for temperature adjustment), unless I have a specific reason for a prolonged drip. These corals are often damaged through poor water conditions in their previous home, so it is typically best to remove them from the cause as quickly as safely possible. If they were damaged from other causes (e.g., high light, stinging), then a short acclimation is not as important. After the coral is acclimated, I open the bag and put the coral in one cup of tank water in a separate container. For this part, I absolutely love my Magnetic Stirrer Coral Dip Station and my DIY face shield.

Coral Inspection and Diagnosis:

At this point, I perform a more thorough inspection to provide me with a usable “diagnosis” (again, I’m not a medical professional, but having an idea of what is wrong is still critical.) This “diagnosis” helps me determine how to treat the coral. For example, if the coral is bleached, I try to look for other markers to determine why (e.g., high light, extremely low light, poor water quality, disease), so I can arrange the most appropriate treatment (e.g., correct husbandry, additional feedings, disease treatment). The flowchart below depicts my typical “triage,” where I try to determine the most appropriate reaction as quickly as possible. This process helps when I bring home a cooler full of dying corals; I have to prioritize treatments and move fast.

The coral is then removed from the plug/base, and all dead skeleton is removed as much as possible. I find this especially critical for rescue corals. In my experience, corals have an easier time growing new skeleton rather than growing over old, especially if the old skeleton has sharp edges. If the coral was placed in strong current, the coral’s tissue could catch on a sharp edge of its old skeleton and rip. In cases where removing all excess rock/ skeleton would harm the coral further (example below – the coral’s tissue was not stable enough to cut the skeleton with a band saw), I just trim down any sharp points.

Coral Dips:

Hydrogen Peroxide Coral Dip:

First, all LPS coral receive a dip in a mixture of hydrogen peroxide and tank water. This helps kill off some nuisance algae and some pests. Hydrogen peroxide isn’t great for the coral tissue itself (prevents calcification), but it isn’t immediate death either. I just use the normal 3% pharmacy-grade type, as the high-strength hydrogen peroxide is very dangerous (can cause blindness in humans). The ratio I use depends on the coral’s condition, but a 10:1 tank water:hydrogen peroxide (3%) is fairly safe on LPS corals for about 20 seconds. In severe cases, I go up to 4:1 for 60 seconds, but I rarely recommend this.

CoralRx, Iodine, and Other Dips:

Second, all corals except smooth-skinned Acropora (they die frequently) are treated with one milliliter of CoralRx mixed with the one cup of tank water (or scaled to the size of the coral). Smooth-skinned Acropora are instead treated with Lugol’s Iodine mixed to manufacturer’s instructions. There are other suitable coral dips, but CoralRx is what I prefer (no real reason – it works, and I haven’t found a reason to switch).

The small amount of water volume limits where pests can hide after the dip draws them out. While the coral is sitting in the dip, I use a pipette to gently baste the coral to blow any remaining pests out of the crevices. I also use a magnifying glass to identify the hitchhikers.

If I find any pests or evidence of them (bite marks or eggs, like this Acropora coral with AEFW), then I will do an additional pest-specific treatment. I keep all treatment medications on hand so I never find myself looking for drugs at an odd hour (hmm…that sounds bad…).

Aquarium Medications (circa 2012 – oh, how this has grown over the years!)

After dip time is completed, the corals are rinsed with quarantine aquarium water (NOT the bag water.)

Final Coral Preparation:

After the peroxide dip, if there is any ripped or cut tissue, I place a small amount of superglue gel along the line (as shown on the Fungia coral). This helps prevent water flow from literally ripping the tissue off the coral. Superglue gel reacts with water to form a type of plastic mesh. However, this reaction is exothermic, which means it releases heat. This can cause cell death, so extreme care should be used. That’s why I prefer wound-grade superglue gel, like Liquid Skin or Vetbond (this is pricey, especially considering when I get my regular superglue gel from the dollar store, but the medical type is worth it in these cases). I also seal any remaining skeleton or base rock in regular super glue. This way, if there are any remaining pests or algae spores, they will have a hard time getting past the glue barrier. The coral will quickly grow over the super glue, and within about a month the super glue should not be noticeable.

Coral Quarantine Tank:

Corals are then transferred to the quarantine tank where they will stay for at least 30 days. During that time I visually inspect each coral about every three days for pests/bite marks/and overall health.

During this time, it is essential to keep hermit crabs, cleaner shrimp, and the like away from the coral. These critters will go after the dying tissue and often take away healthy tissue in the process, which can quickly lead to the coral’s demise. It is especially essential to keep them away during feeding, as the process of stealing food from a coral’s mouth can be extremely damaging.

Lighting and flow should be kept low to allow the coral to acclimate. However, the flow rate must be high enough to keep the coral mucus from building up on the coral.

Coral Grow-out Tank:

After the 30 days, I go through the entire dipping process again. Also, if the corals weren’t stable enough to have the excess skeleton/ base cut, I do that at this point. The corals then go into a grow-out tank/secondary quarantine where they live for another 30 days. After those 30 days, I repeat the dipping process a third time. But, I leave the entire base of the coral or a nice fragment of the coral in the grow-out tank. This allows me to have a healthy backup in case I lose my main colony. The main colony is moved to the main display after the dipping process or fragmented for sharing.

Grow-out Aquarium for Rehabilitated Corals

Coral Inspection, Dips, and Quarantine Conclusion:

Yes, it takes a whopping 60 days for a coral to make it to my main display. But, through a proper process of coral inspections, dips, and quarantine, I can rest assured that I minimize pests and nuisance algae. I will not have to rip out my corals to treat for AEFW or go almost two years without Montipora corals to treat for Monti-eating Nudibranchs. “An ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure.” I can also sell my coral clippings knowing I’m providing a very healthy specimen to another hobbyist.

No matter where you buy a coral from, always quarantine. Do not trust anyone, even me. Everyone makes mistakes, and sometimes even a backup safety fails. You do not have to quarantine like I do, but any amount is better than nothing. I hope this post provides some insight on how to improve your procedures.

Berghia Nudibranchs: Natural Aiptasia Predators

reefdup Berghia Nudibranchs, Identification February 21, 2022February 21, 2022aeolidiella, aiptasia, anemone, aquarium, Berghia, egg ribbon, egg spiral, exaiptasia, Nudibranch, pest, reef, sea slug 0 Comment

Berghia Nudibranchs Eating an Aiptasia Anemone

Not only are “Berghia Nudibranchs” (Aeolidiella stephanieae) elegant, with their glowing blue-white cerata, but they are also amazing natural Aiptasia anemone predators. Originating from the Florida Keys, once introduced to an Aiptasia-infested aquarium, the nudibranchs band together at night to hunt and take down the anemones, one-by-one. At first, this is a slow process, but the nudibranchs reproduce quickly enough to out-compete the anemones. Understanding a few key concepts on the nudibranch’s lifecycle, natural predators to avoid, and basic care may help eradicate Aiptasia from an aquarium.

Lifecycle of Berghia Nudibranchs:

Egg Development:

Mature nudibranchs (about five to seven weeks old) lay egg masses in beautiful spirals with less than 100 eggs initially to more than 250, approximately every four days. As the nudibranchs mature, they lay more eggs per mass, more frequently. I currently have one pair that returns to the same place in the aquarium every two nights to lay eggs together (they appear uninterested in the other nudibranchs, which may be due to their extra-large size).

Egg development occurs over the course of about 12 days, as shown in the photos below.

Berghia Nudibranch Egg Spiral Day 2 — Berghia Nudibranch Egg Spiral Day 0

Metamorphosis:

This short stage (approximately one-to-three days) of Berghia nudibranch development is my favorite. The nudibranchs hatch into these rice-shaped fluorescent blue larvae, which look very similar to their adult cerata. I was collecting some adults one day, when I saw these floating on the underside of the surface of the water. They tend to float upward and stay until metamorphosis is complete, which may make them a target for fish to eat.

Juvenile Berghia Nudibranchs:

This photo shows a larval Berghia Nudibranch, along with a juvenile (a week or two old post-hatching). After metamorphosis, the juveniles settle back into the rocks to begin hunting Aiptasia. As they are extremely small, they tend to attack only the smallest anemones, likely to avoid being eaten.

Adult Berghia Nudibranchs

Berghia Nudibranchs and Aiptasia Anemone

Similar to the juvenile nudibranchs, the adults band together to hunt anemones, but as they grow, they are able to prey on larger anemones. A well-fed nudibranch will take on the brown coloration, as shown, from ingesting and retaining the anemones’ zooxanthallae.

Hunting in groups, along with their hermaphroditic nature, typically provides plenty of mating opportunities. With egg masses over 100 laid every few days, the population can quickly outpace the food source (the nudibranchs can starve in around five days without food). Provided with enough food and protection, the nudibranchs will live approximately 10-12 months. However, Berghia Nudibranchs do face several threats in the home aquarium.

Aquarium Husbandry:

General Information:

Unfortunately, Berghia Nudibranchs are not as tolerant of poor water conditions as Aiptasia; they require stable parameters within natural saltwater conditions. Additionally, they are prey for a variety of wrasses (but thankfully the nudibranchs’ nocturnal nature helps protect them), and the egg masses and juveniles are prey for amphipods. Even Aiptasia will eat the nudibranchs if they are lucky enough to catch one.

Selection:

Typically, for a moderate Aiptasia infestation, one Berghia per 10-gallons is recommended (see the table below). However, since Berghia nudibranchs hunt in groups and need to reproduce, never introduce less than three, regardless of tank size. For example, three nudibranchs would be an appropriate number for a 30-gallon aquarium, a 10-gallon aquarium, and also a 1-gallon aquarium. Even then, it is best to overestimate to ensure the nudibranchs can find each other to breed. In other words, if the tank size falls between the recommended quantities below, round up.

Size also matters. While smaller nudibranchs cost less, they also may not reproduce for a few more weeks. They are also less able to attack larger Aiptasia or withstand high-flow aquariums (e.g., SPS-dominant). In tanks with high flow, larger predators, heavy infestations, and/or large Aiptasia, mature adults are best. For low-flow tanks with light Aiptasia infestations, a mixture of medium and small nudibranchs may work best.

Tank Size	Initial Berghia Nudibranchs*
1-gallon	3 Medium Nudibranchs
10-gallons	3 Medium Nudibranchs
30-gallons	3 Medium Nudibranchs
40-gallons	4 Medium Nudibranchs
75-gallons	8 Medium Nudibranchs
90-gallons	9 Medium Nudibranchs
120-gallons	12 Medium Nudibranchs
150-gallons	15 Medium Nudibranchs
300-gallons	30 Medium Nudibranchs

Recommended Berghia Nudibranch Starting Populations (*for medium flow, moderate-infestation tanks)

[NOTE: If you are looking for a source of Berghia Nudibranchs, please see Reference #4 at the end of this article for a potential source. This page is not currently affiliated with any nudibranch vendors.]

Introduction into the Aquarium:

If the nudibranchs were shipped, they are likely more white colored due to a lack of food. And, depending on the temperature conditions during shipping, they may appear quite sluggish. They likely came in a jar, similar to the one shown here. Never place this jar to float in the tank for acclimation, as the jar’s motion may tumble the nudibranchs. Instead, slowly remove the jar’s water, while adding the same amount of tank water back into the jar, over the course of about 30 minutes to an hour. This will enable the nudibranchs to adjust to the tank while minimizing injury. Next, turn off all flow in the tank, and if there are predator fish, wait until the lights go off.

Place the jar in the rocks (not on the sand) near (but not on) some Aiptasia anemones. Allow the nudibranchs to crawl out naturally on their own. If they are sluggish or the flow needs to be restored to the tank, use a pipette with the end cut off to gently baste them out of the jar.

Final Thoughts and Conclusion:

It’s important to remember that nudibranchs are only a natural control, not a cure; they cannot reach every place Aiptasia may infest. After tank introduction, it is common to not see the Berghia nudibranchs (or evidence of their existence) for months later (until seemingly overnight, the Aiptasia start vanishing!) It is only once the nudibranchs’ population reaches a “critical mass” point that they really make a difference.

References:

Carroll, David & Kempf, Stephen, “Laboratory Culture of the Aeolid Nudibranch Berghia verrucicornis (Mollusca, Opisthobranchia): Some Aspects of Its Development and Life History,” Biological Bulletin, 1990. https://www.researchgate.net/publication/237641285_Laboratory_Culture_of_the_Aeolid_Nudibranch_Berghia_verrucicornis_Mollusca_Opisthobranchia_Some_Aspects_of_Its_Development_and_Life_History
Monteiro, Estela A., et al., “Implications of feeding frequency, prey size and condition, and intraspecific competition for the commercial aquaculture of the nudibranch Berghia stephanieae,” Journal of the World Aquaculture Society, February 2020. https://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/full/10.1111/jwas.12645
“Aeolidiella stephanieae, Valdes, 2005,” The Sea Slug Forum, http://seaslugforum.net/find/aeolstep, accessed 21 February 2022.
ReefTown, Your Source for Berghia Nudibranchs, https://reeftown.com/, accessed 21 February 2022.

Turn it up to 11: Magnetic Stirrer Coral Dip Station

reefdup DIY January 2, 2022January 2, 20223D printing, Coral, coral dip, dip station, DIY, magnetic stirrer, quarantine 2 Comments

Sure, blowing a coral with a pipette while it sits for 10+ minutes in a dip works. So does blasting it with a powerhead. But… I’m a nerd, and nerds must always over-engineer every problem (or non-problem). This project was the result of trying to find the end of the internet one night while researching new 3D printing ideas. I was inspired by ChickenHaunt’s Resin Wash Station over at Thingiverse. With only a minor tweak, I now have an amazing Coral Wash Station! Enjoy “turning it up to 11” with this magnetic stirrer.

Supplies List:

This is a list of what I actually used to build my magnetic stirrer coral dip station, along with estimated prices as of the published date. I’ve included links to the products and 3D print files (please note, as an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases. I get commissions for purchases made through links in this post.) While other stirrers and containers will still make a nice coral dip station, they may not work with the 3D print file. Therefore, I highly recommend this list since it is all most likely to work well together. I also recommend fluorescent filament for the print file, since the setup will likely be near a reef aquarium (so the filament will glow!) At the end of this post, I’ve included more details about the supplies, along with some other options.

Intllab Magnetic Stirrer: ~$30 USD
3D-printed Rack with fluorescent filament: ~$3 USD, if printing yourself
Magnetic Rods with Retrieval Rod: ~$17 USD
Sistema KLIP IT Lunch Plus Storage Containers: ~$9 USD (recommend getting two sets – or more if you do a lot of dipping)

Coral Dip Station Instructions:

Step 1: Prepare the Magnetic Stirrer

First, I started with the Intllab Magnetic Stirrer. This is a simple stirrer that does not have a heating option (not necessary for how short coral dips are). Now, if you wanted a coral bath option, I recommend considering a heated magnetic stirrer (but the cost is much greater).

One of the most important qualities of this stirrer is the 316 stainless steel plate due to the corrosive nature of saltwater. (Note: this metal is corrosion-resistant against saltwater, not corrosion-proof. Try to keep the stirrer as clean as possible for the longest life.)

Step 2: Prepare for 3D Printing

My 3D printer is a Creality Ender 3 Pro, which is a “best value” printer in my opinion. The fluorescent green filament I used for the stirrer tank surround is in the storage tub on the left. The black filament used for the rack is on the right.

Step 3: Print and Build

I followed ChickenHaunt’s instructions for the printing and assembly, but there are a few remixes out there on Thingiverse too. Here are a few things I liked/didn’t like along with tips:

– Use solvent weld to assemble everything rather than hot glue and/or super glue
– Assemble the components on the stirrer before gluing; otherwise they may not fit (including the magnetic stirrer and the storage container)
– The strainer platform is quite flimsy

I added a sticker with the infamous quote, “Turn it up to 11!” from the movie, Spinal Tap. There’s no “11” on here, but most of the time I turn the stirrer up to the 4th blue bar. Use trial and error to see what works best for your corals and setup.

Step 4: Add Parts

Once printing and assembly is complete, add the dip container. It should fit snugly into the surround. Of course, the larger containers that ChickenHaunt used would work great for larger corals (but those containers can be difficult to find. I like these smaller ones for frags and small colonies.) Add a magnetic stirrer rod.

Note: The magnetic stirrer kit I recommended includes a retrieval rod. Personally, I try to keep my hands out of coral dip as much as possible for safety. The retrieval rod will pick up the magnetic stirrer rod, thus helping to prevent skin contact with the coral dip. There are additional options at the end of the post.

Now, add the strainer platform with handle. The platform is very flimsy, so whenever I lift out corals, I have to support the handle’s opposite corner. A platform remix would likely fix this, but this still works fine.

Step 5: Test it Out!

Now, just add tank water and medication of choice. Plug in and turn on the magnetic stirrer. I usually turn the knob to the fourth blue bar. Once the medication is adequately dispersed, add in the corals and set a timer for the appropriate dip length.

No more pipette blowing or giant powerhead necessary!

Inspect the corals for damage and health (if you need a primer, check out Assessing Coral Health).

About a minute before the dip time is up, I turn off the magnetic stirrer. This allows the gunk to settle to the bottom. Once the time is up, carefully lift the platform out of the solution (using additional support as necessary).

I have six of these storage containers, as I typically have a three-dip process. Then, I use a fourth container for plain tank water to rinse the corals.

Magnetic Stirrer Coral Dip Station Conclusion:

When I first built this magnetic stirrer coral dip station, of course I was excited. But I had no idea how much it would transform my dip successes. The small footprint combined with the fast water movement made dips easier and more effective.

Additional Supplies Info:

NOTE: As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases. I get commissions for purchases made through links in this post.

INTLLAB Magnetic Stirrer w/ stir bar set & retriever

INTLLAB Magnetic Stirrer

Fluorescent PLA filament

Magnetic Stirrer Mixer Stir Bar and Retriever

Sistema KLIP IT Lunch Plus Storage Containers

Creality Ender 3 Pro 3D Printer

Coral Dip

Black Bug and Gray Bug Acropora Parasites

reefdup Black/Gray Bugs, Identification January 2, 2022October 16, 2022A. corallina, acropora, Alteuthellopsis corallina, black bugs, bleached coral, gray bugs, identification, parasites, red bugs, reef bugs 4 Comments

In my years of reefkeeping, I’ve seen some odd stuff. But, back in 2013, I was stumped. My corals were receding like something was eating them, but no matter how long I watched the corals at 3 a.m., I couldn’t find the culprit. I had heard of Acropora “black bug” parasites, but I couldn’t find any pictures of them. I really wasn’t convinced they actually existed in the hobby, or if they did, that I had them.

Speck on Acropora Coral

Alteuthellopsis corallina parasite on Acropora Coral

One day, I noticed the tiniest gray speck of movement on an Acropora coral. I watched it for a while, but I wasn’t sure what I was seeing. It definitely wasn’t a red bug (Tegastes acroporanus), but it also did not seem like random detritus movement. I decided to err on the side of caution and dip the coral. (You see it, right??)

First, I started with Coral Rx, but the speck didn’t fall off. In fact, I couldn’t move the speck with a pick. When I grabbed a magnifying glass, I realized the tiny “pod” had lodged itself in the coral’s tissue and was still very much alive.

I then dipped the coral in a different dip, and the speck fell off. This is what I found under the microscope. Sorry for the poor quality – this was back in my sub-par microscope days.

Alteuthellopsis corallina or “Black Bug” Acropora Parasites:

Although I am not certain, I believe the parasites were Alteuthellopsis corallina (so we’re going to go with that assumption for the remainder of this post). These parasites are coral predators, and according to this article, they are known to infect Acropora, Merulina, Pocillopora, and other stony corals.

How to Identify:

While corals affected with red bugs tend to “brown out,” the corals infected with A. corallina appeared bleached and as though something was eating them. A. corallina are only a little larger than 0.5 mm, so they’re extremely difficult to see due to size and color. As mentioned above, this species seems to have an ability to lodge themselves into coral tissue. These parasites are more gray than black, but most reefkeeping websites reference odd pods as being black. In the hopes of providing the most information possible on Acropora parasites, A. corallina is associated with both gray and black bugs here.

In order to determine the presence of any sort of unusual pods, I typically use a magnifying glass to inspect the corals prior to placement in a quarantine system. After that, I observe the coral daily for a week. I also take a photo of the coral and zoom in to look for anything I missed.

If you suspect you have a pod problem, I recommend ruling out all other options (e.g., water quality, large pests, flow problems) Next, inspect the coral for movement since the human eye can spot movement somewhat better than a 0.5 mm stationary speck. Even if you can’t spot anything, a quick dip may indicate pest presence.

Treatment Options:

It appears likely that typical red bug treatments will work on the black/gray bugs, but I have been unsuccessful photographing or studying them further. Thankfully, in 14+ years of reefkeeping, I have only encountered these once.

Method 1: Control

Based on my experience with A. corallina, I can’t recommend natural controls. These pods can really lodge themselves into the coral tissue, and any pod predator would probably cause significant damage to the coral. Regardless, I advise against natural control methods for aquarists who plan to sell/trade their corals.

Method 2: Coral Dips

Coral dips often help stun the pests so they can be blown off gently with a pipette or powerhead. For live bearer parasites, this may be a one-shot treatment. Unfortunately, I don’t know how these parasites reproduce, so if you dip, I still recommend quarantine. Red bugs are live bearers, but I wouldn’t take any chances regarding applicability to A. corallina.

As mentioned above, CoralRx did not cause any noticeable harm to A. corallina at the manufacturer’s recommended dosage. It may work on other similar parasites, at higher dosages, or longer time, but I did not have enough pods to test this on. Other dips will likely work, as a different dip was successful for me.

Since a succession of coral dips work for Acropora-eating flatworms and red bugs, I dip all Acropora corals daily the first week. After that, I dip all Acropora corals every other day the second week, every third day the third week, and then once a week for weeks four through six. I have not lost a single coral with this method, and it saves me the hassle of treating with different medications for different parasites at different times.

Note: I have never found a pest after week two, but I still go the full six weeks, since the lifecycle of AEFW is quite long (and I always treat Acropora corals for both AEFW and red bugs). Also, some dips can be extremely damaging to smooth-skinned corals, so please use caution if you plan to utilize a coral dip.

WARNING: Some aquarists use Bayer Advanced Insecticide as a coral dip. Per Bayer Advanced Insecticide’s labeling, “It is a violation of Federal law to use this product in a manner inconsistent with its labeling.” Due to this warning, this website does not cover Bayer use as a coral dip.

Coral Dip Treatment Protocol for A. corallina Parasites:

Follow dip manufacturer instructions.

Method 3: Prescription Flea Medications

Hobbyists considered Interceptor (milbemycin oxime), a prescription canine flea medication, as the golden standard for red bug parasite treatment. At least, they did before the manufacturer discontinued it. Even then it was not the easiest solution. Aquarists had to remove all shrimp, crabs, and other crustaceans before dosing. This die-off would spike ammonia levels, so reefkeepers also had to prepare for a water change and to run carbon. Additionally, many people had difficulty obtaining Interceptor from their veterinarians, since this is an off-label use. Eventually, the Veterinary Information Network published information on red bug parasites for reference.

Once Interceptor was no longer available, reefkeepers began searching for a replacement. Currently, Milbemax is the most often recommended replacement. It is a prescription combination of milbemycin and praziquantel. The latter medication is commonly used for fluke treatment in reef tanks (e.g., PraziPro); however, it is a much lower dose than would be effective for common marine flukes.

Providing proof of infection to a veterinarian and asking him/her to look up red bugs on the VIN may be enough to justify the medication for gray/black bugs. Some veterinarians have recommended different medications with different treatment protocol (e.g., MilbeMite Otic), so those individual cases are not discussed here.

Unfortunately, many aquarists are finding some red bugs have a resistance to Milbemycin, so gray/black bugs may as well. If you try it with no success, work with your veterinarian to find an alternate medication, or consider one of the alternate methods described here. See the red bug page for more information on reference dosing protocols for both Interceptor and Milbemax.

Method 4: Temperature Adjustment

Many aquarists (including myself) have noticed red bugs die at lower temperatures, and this may be an acceptable treatment for gray/black bugs as well. A temperature of 72°F may be adequate to control/reduce the population. Use caution with this method as it can cause coral stress if the temperature drops too suddenly or if the oxygen level drops.

Due to a six-hour power outage in Utah, my quarantine tank dropped to 65 degrees. Afterward, there was no sign of red bugs on a known infested Acropora. Note: this is experimental, and there is not enough data to determine if this treatment works 100% or with gray/black bugs. Use with caution!

Conclusion:

It is truly terrifying and amazing what a 0.5mm speck of a pod can do to a coral. It is likewise amazing and rewarding how the Acropora coral can recover. With this sort of risk, a good quarantine is absolutely essential, but there are a few viable treatment options available.

Blue Sun Coral (Tubastraea sp.): A Natural Rarity?

reefdup Corals, Sun Corals August 28, 2021August 28, 2021Artificial Color, Blue Sun Coral, brown jelly disease, Coral, Dyed Coral, Dying Coral, non-photosynthetic, nps, Planula, Spawn, spawning, Sun Coral, Tubastrea 0 Comment

When I started in the hobby in 2008, there was a legitimate problem with dyed corals and anemones. Sadly, this was not a new problem at that time either. Bleached corals (or even healthy corals) were subjected to dye baths in a dizzying variety of colors, especially in rare shades, such as yellow and blue. Unfortunately, that practice had unsurprisingly deleterious effects on the animals, as the dye interfered with their photosynthesis via zooxanthallae. Fast forward over a decade, and the frequency of dyed corals showing up in local fish stores for sale substantially decreased. So, imagine my shock when a fellow reefkeeper sent me a message about a potentially dyed blue sun coral. The earliest reporting of blue sun corals in the hobby I could find dated back to 2017.

Panic Hits – Artificially Dyed Corals in a Pandemic:

In June 2020, right in the middle of a global pandemic, I was appalled to see reports popping up all over multiple reefkeeping forums and other social media sites claiming that there was a sudden influx of dyed corals. Rehabilitating dyed corals is no picnic; it takes daily feedings, lots of carbon to absorb any free dye, and fast removal of necrotic tissue. Even then, I have never had success with them long-term. Panic started to hit me, as my aquariums were severely neglected thanks to trying to telework and homeschool young children simultaneously. Not only were my tanks ill-prepared, but I couldn’t get the supplies necessary for rehabilitating dying coral. Chlorine bleach and hydrogen peroxide are two of my main staples to keep clean equipment, and they were nonexistent on shelves at the time.

Assessing Blue Sun Coral Health:

Then, on 8 July 2020, a fellow local reefkeeper posted on Facebook that she had just received one of these (on 18 June) and suspected it was dyed and dying. She was concerned that it was affecting her yellow sun coral too, as it seemed to be losing color. So, it was time for me to do some research!

Although I had a lot of questions, my first question was on how to stabilize the coral. Since the owner believed it was dyed, I needed to determine what dyes could have been used so I could figure out how to remove it. Sun corals are often various shades of orange or yellow, so the idea of getting a solid blue coral seemed a bit crazy to me. In other words, I thought that just adding blue dye to a yellow coral would likely result in a greenish coral. However, I’ve used methylene blue extensively, and I know its staining power! It seemed a plausible dye to overcome the yellow.

While researching the various dyes, I found research suggesting that anemones could safely tolerate methylene blue dye, as it did not affect the anemones’ growth or survival. Additionally, the research found that the anemones only retained the methylene blue for approximately six weeks. This gave me hope. Maybe the sun coral was dyed with methylene blue, so it might live if I could feed it adequately (as a non-photosynthetic coral, there is no zooxanthellae interference). I was also prepared with activated carbon to absorb any leaching dye (although this research on using dragonfruit skin was super interesting!)

Bringing the Coral Home:

Only three days later, on 11 July, we met in a mall parking lot, while wearing masks and maintaining social distancing. Even in the hot mid-day sun, the coral was a shocking blue color. I quickly took both the blue and yellow corals home. I followed my standard coral assessment procedure, and several things concerned me.

Determining the Coral’s Condition:

First, I’ve never previously had my hands or equipment get any sort of coloration on them while fragging. Was this the “dye?” I could see blue, yellow, and green colors on this while towel.

Second, the yellow sun coral had a case of “brown jelly disease” starting. This was not good.

Although the tissue appeared dyed, the skeleton of the coral was white as usual. This was not what I expected, especially if the coral was submerged in dye. However, the anemone research referenced above suggests a dye method that may work on just the tissues. At this point, I wasn’t convinced either way on if it was dyed.

Quarantining the Blue Sun Coral:

After initial treatments, I placed the corals into my quarantine tank for observation. I started them on small pellet food, as sometimes that seems easy for corals to digest. Once the coral was regularly eating, I switched it to a varied diet of Roti-Feast, Oyster-Feast, Phyto-Feast, Reef-Roids, and baby mysis shrimp.

Unfortunately, the “brown jelly” spread to my other corals in quarantine, but I was able to keep it from progressing on the yellow sun coral or to the blue sun coral.

About a week after arrival, I was once again convinced that this coral was dyed, as the healing fragmented portion was a dark greenish-yellow. Ah ha!

But this coral decided to just keep me guessing. Wouldn’t the tentacles be blue as well if it was dyed?

Blue Sun Coral Grow-out:

By a month after arrival, I was sure it was natural, as it was just becoming more blue with bright yellowish green polyps. How was that possible?! Methylene blue should’ve mostly dissipated by that point. It had to be natural, right??

Oh but wait… This coral just wants to keep us on the edge of our seats! After four months in my tank, the shadowed areas were turning yellowish green! But, notice the baby polyp – it’s blue! My head was starting to hurt. (And yes, unfortunately I was not feeding the coral as much as necessary, so it was receding. My tanks were quite neglected during COVID-19, as you’ll see by the algae and aiptasia.)

In reviewing the 2017 post photo, the shaded regions display similar coloration.

Spawning of the Blue Sun Coral!

On 12 December 2020, five months after getting the coral, I woke up to find this blue sun coral spawning! And, the planulae were orange (not blue) – suggesting the coloration was natural (and reproduction hopefully not affected).

One of the planulae immediately settled onto the glass, where I watched it eagerly (until it disappeared about three days later).

Blue Sun Coral Spawning

Here are some of the planulae. Unfortunately, none of them survived, or maybe they weren’t even fertilized in the first place.

According to username, “Tennyson,” on Nano-Reef, the dark orange/ brown ones are “duds” while the more yellowish planulae are viable (assuming this is consistent across all sun coral colorations).

(For more reading on sun coral reproduction, please see the references below.)

Although the tank wasn’t exactly clean, both sun corals were appreciating the high nutrient levels!

Final Thoughts:

Although I took this photo under actinic lighting, the blue of the sun coral is very similar to the blue of the Oregon Blue Tort Acropora coral. This amazes me as one is photosynthetic while the other is not. In advertising the Oregon Blue Tort, there are plenty of websites that describe the blue as “so vivid it makes you wonder whether it was injected with an artificial blue pigment,” “often considered the bluest Acropora coral you can buy,” “one of the bluest of the blues,” and “so blue it almost looks fake.” I can see why this blue sun coral was also believed to be dyed!

Conclusion:

Over 13 months later, here it is (under actinics again, so the yellowish green polyps are hard to capture on the camera). I lost four polyps, and a few polyps shrank but are now re-growing. The coloration hasn’t changed a bit. The tissue is brilliant blue, the tentacles are yellowish-green, the oral cavity is yellowish-green, and the center of the polyp is blue. Shaded areas turn yellowish-green, but they regain the brilliant blue color once exposed to light again. This makes me believe it’s a structural blue versus a pigment.

Although I lost four polyps, this gives me an opportunity to clean the skeleton to help identify the coral (to be included at a future point). I am convinced that this coral is not dyed, but I have no explanation for its coloration, especially as blue is rare in nature.

So, let’s celebrate this amazing coral with a happy ending. It was fate that on 25 July 2021, the Washington D.C. Area Marine Aquarist Society (WAMAS) hosted a virtual meeting with guest speaker, Matt Wandell, from the Monterey Bay Aquarium. His topic was on “Use and Care of NPS Corals.” Of course, I had to chat with him about this unusual beauty. I am happy to report that we have made arrangements for at least half of the coral to go on display at the Monterey Bay Aquarium in the fall of 2021 (once the weather cools down).

References:

Arthur Jen, 2017 (original post is now deleted). https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/baby-jb-for-trade-southern-california.333673/

BSA Corals, “Blue Emerald Sun Coral!,” 26 June 2020. https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/blue-emerald-sun-coral.733669/

Calfo, Anthony, “The Tragedy of Artificially Dyed Live Corals,” September 2002. http://www.reefkeeping.com/issues/2002-09/ac/feature/index.php

Fatheree, James, “Aquarium Corals: A Look at the Sun Corals,” Advanced Aquarist, 2011. https://reefs.com/magazine/aquarium-corals-a-look-at-the-sun-corals/

Mizrahi, D., Navarrete, S. A., and Flores, A. A. V., “Groups travel further: pelagic metamorphosis and polyp clustering allow higher dispersal potential in sun coral propagules”, Coral Reefs, vol. 33, no. 2, pp. 443–448, 2014. https://core.ac.uk/download/pdf/37522324.pdf

ReefdUp, “Blue Sun Coral Spawning!” 12 December 2020. https://wamas.org/forums/topic/95817-blue-sun-coral-spawning/?_fromLogin=1

Rowlett, Joe, “A Field Guide to Sun Corals,” 2015. https://reefs.com/magazine/field-guide-sun-corals/

Tennyson, “How to tell if a coral is dyed a different color?” 6 July 2020. https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/how-to-tell-if-a-coral-is-dyed-a-different-color.736716/

Tennyson, “HUGE Sun Coral Spawning event,” 9 October 2019. https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/huge-sun-coral-spawning-event.654328/

Wells, CD, Sebens, KP, “Individual marking of soft-bodied subtidal invertebrates in situ – A novel staining technique applied to the giant plumose anemone Metridium farcimen (Tilesius, 1809),” PLOS ONE 12(11): e0188263, 21 November 2017. https://doi.org/10.1371/journal.pone.0188263

Assessing Coral Health: An Introduction

reefdup DIY, How To, Rehabilitation June 26, 2021October 16, 2022AEFW, bleached, brown jelly disease, Coral Health, disease, Dying Coral, fragged, fragmentation, husbandry, infected, infested, parasite, poison, starvation, Stung, Tegastes acroporanus 10 Comments

Coral Disease Assessment: Dark Spot Syndrome with purple lesions

Even on a smaller scale than global reef decline, the ability to assess coral health is essential. I am often asked how I know where to even start to rescue corals. In my opinion, determining how healthy the coral is, or what the problem might be, is usually the first step. This is an introduction on assessing coral health to determine what might be causing the coral stress.

Assessing Coral Health for Stung Corals:

Corals stung by another coral are probably the most easy to save. These corals are healthy overall, but a portion of them is damaged. As long the coral avoids infection and no further damage occurs, then healing is rather quick. When a coral “stings” another coral, the stung coral is sometimes actually “digested.” When corals have to compete for territory, they expel their digestive organs, called mesenterial filaments, and use them to digest a nearby coral. This typically results in one area of severe damage and no damage elsewhere. A coral stung this coral shown, but the remaining tissue was very healthy. You can read more about the Trachyphyllia’s recovery here.

Lack of Proper Husbandry:

A lack of proper husbandry is typically a slow process. It can result in the tissue between polyps receding first. As shown here, portions of recent die-off right are beside healthy tissue and coralline-encrusted skeleton. With these corals, good water parameters are essential. Removal of invasive algae is also critical. These corals typically do not need much additional care. You can read more about this Lobophyllia’s recovery here.

Assessing Poorly-Fragmented Corals:

When a coral is improperly fragmented, various outcomes are possible depending on damage. Sometimes the tissue rips apart improperly, or the skeleton is crushed underneath intact tissue. As long as there is about half the polyp left, the coral typically survives with the natural healing process. This Euphyllia coral unfortunately became infected and died.

Corals with Pest Damage or Parasites:

Attempting to rescue an infected coral is risky, as it may infect other corals. This type of rescue requires a proper quarantine tank and medications on hand. Typically, once the pests and any eggs are removed, the coral will heal quickly on its own. Here, this infected Acropora has both Acropora-eating flatworms and red bugs (Tegastes acroporanus). With proper treatments to remove both pests, this coral made a full recovery.

Assessing Coral Health due to Infections:

Attempting to rescue infected corals can be dangerous, complex, and expensive. Any attempts require a dedicated hospital tank, proper supplies (including a microscope), and extensive knowledge in coral diseases and treatments. Furthermore, keeping a low expectation for coral survival is key. These infections vary by cause (e.g., bacterial, viral, fungal, ciliate, etc.), so the owner must tailor treatment to the cause. Determining the cause can be nearly impossible without the proper equipment. Any attempts also require the utmost caution, as some infections are transferable to humans. This coral shown had “brown jelly disease.”

Bleached Corals:

Coral bleaching also has a variety of causes, and knowledge of the cause can help determine possible solutions. Assessing a bleached coral’s health can be challenging as high light, chronic low light, high temperature, low temperature (rare cases), lack of oxygenation, and some infections can cause bleaching. Since a bleached coral is lacking its typical zooxanthallae population (the symbiotic algae that lives inside the coral’s tissues and produces food for the coral), it will need regular feedings. Unfortunately, in my experience, sometimes these corals never thrive again, even with coloration return.

The photo below shows several corals that were poisoned with household bleach. An angry customer poured it into a local fish store’s tanks, which killed all the livestock. I attempted to save everything that still had tissue, but even these corals eventually died.

Starved Corals:

Although starvation is more commonly seen in non-photosynthetic corals (NPS), it is still possible in photosynthetic corals as well. This is more likely to occur in in ultra-low nutrient systems, also known as ULNS. Here, a Dendrophyllia coral is starving, shown by the algae-encrusted skeleton. Regular feedings are essential in these cases.

Poisoned Corals:

Poisoned corals usually have retracted tissue with areas of white skeleton showing. Tissue colors are usually brown or white, depending on the toxin. Any other typical colors (e.g., blues, reds, greens) are muted. This coral was poisoned by either the flatworm treatment a LFS used, or by the flatworm toxins themselves. You can read more about this coral’s amazing recovery here.

As shown, coral health has a multitude of causes, and only a few examples were shown here. If you would like to continue learning about coral pathology, a more technical source is available on NOAA.

Dying Sarcophyton Coral Rehabilitation

reefdup Rehabilitation, Sarcophyton May 30, 2021May 30, 2021Dying Coral, Leather, Rehabilitated Coral, Rescue Coral, Sarcophyton, Toadstool 0 Comment

“Is this…gum? What is this? Ew!” I honestly had no idea what the off-white algae-covered blob on my rescue coral was. When I touched it, it reminded me of a leather, but there was no sign of polyps. Finally, I decided to just place it in my quarantine tank – after all, that’s what a quarantine tank is for! Turns out, I had a dying Sarcophyton coral rehabilitation on my hands.

Assessing the Coral’s Health:

I took in this Favia-type coral on 31 May 2020, as it had two tiny little polyps remaining (the local fish store was about to throw the entire rock into the sump, which would’ve meant death for the coral). As I was preparing the two polyps, I cut off the weird off-white algae-covered chunk in the top right of the photo. I had a million thoughts running through my head as to what it could be (e.g., is this a new type of epoxy?). But, a nagging feeling kept telling me to put it on a frag plug because it might be a dying Sarcophyton coral. It might just be a really unique rehabilitation.

This is a close-up of the same image above, just rotated. It seemed grown-into the coral skeleton, which made me think it could be a leather, although I did not see any polyps.

Of course, this “blob” went through my usual dip process and mounting in preparation for quarantine.

Quarantined Coral:

A few weeks later, on 19 June 2020, I still did not have any real new information. The algae covering it was gone, but there was still no sign of life. But, this was the day that I thought if I squinted really hard, I could start to see polyp pores in the center of the coral. Was I just getting my hopes up?

Just a few days shy of a month after I got the coral (and a change in tank placement), I was sure. Yes, those were polyp pores right in the center! It *is* a leather!

By 15 June 2020, I was totally excited! It was a “toadstool” Sarcophyton coral. The polyps were out, and I was starting to get an idea of how this coral would recover.

On 17 August 2020, the previously dying Sarcophyton coral was fully rehabilitated. All it needed was a healthy aquarium and a chance to live.

Coral Grow-Out:

Here is the coral on 15 November 2020. I think the coral agreed with me, because it started growing up rather than out. Although its stalk is hidden, it grew about an inch in height between this photo and the previous. (Although, I did move the coral just for logistics purposes).

Rehabilitated Sarcophyton Coral:

Even until April 2021, the coral was only really growing up. The stalk in the photo was about four inches tall (it would’ve been growing out of the water in its previous location, so I had to move it again).

Although it is not the most colorful or unique coral, it is still attractive, hardy, and would make a great addition to a new hobbyist’s aquarium. I plan to keep this coral in my collection for fragging, so that the story of this previously dying Sarcophyton coral rehabilitation will be passed on hopefully for generations.

Montipora-Eating Nudibranchs and Treatment

reefdup Identification, Montipora-Eating Nudibranchs May 29, 2021May 29, 2021Coral, Montipora, Montipora-Eating Nudibranchs, Nudibranch, Phestilla, subodiosus 0 Comment

Montipora-Eating Nudibranch on Digitata Coral

Growing…growing…gone. Unfortunately, this is an all-too-common story in the reefkeeping hobby due to a pest aptly named for its favorite meal, the Montipora-Eating Nudibranch (Phestilla subodiosus). Although treatment of Montipora-Eating Nudibranchs is historically challenging, this article covers several available options.

Montipora-Eating Nudibranchs (M.E.N. – just kidding, I won’t use that acronym) are from the phylum Mollusc, class Gastropod, sub-class Opisthobranchia, order Nudibranchia. From there, they are of the suborder Aeolidina, superfamily Fionoidea, family Trinchesiidae, genus Phestilla, species subodiosus. Identification down to the species level was only accomplished as recently as 2021, although the hobby has been actively fighting them since at least the early 2000’s (Wang, et al., 2020).

How to Identify:

These nudibranchs are white in color and range in size from 1-3mm in length. The body is covered in cerata, which may store the nematocysts (stinging cells) of the coral to help protect them from predators. Shown in the picture is a single Montipora-Eating Nudibranch (circled in red) at the edge of a Montipora digitata coral.

Montipora-Eating Nudibranch on Montipora Coral

The key to detection is to understand the life cycle of these nudibranchs. If there is only one nudibranch, it is capable of reproducing asexually. The adults lay tiny clusters of 3-20 eggs (Borneman, 2007) in crevices along the base of the coral (see image). As the eggs hatch, the juveniles immediately join the adults in eating the coral in a distinct jagged line along the base and edges. Reportedly, these nudibranchs can survive extended periods with no food source.

Modeling the Lifecycle of Montipora-Eating Nudibranchs

Back in grad school, I modeled the lifecycle of these nudibranchs and how various treatments worked on them. Unfortunately, the results were never promising once the nudibranchs established themselves in a mature tank. (Note: Sadly, I built this model with an educational license, and my files are “legacy file types” for the software. I have been unable to regain access to my work for either historical purposes or additional research.)

Montipora-Eating Nudibranch Treatment Options:

Treatment for the Montipora-Eating Nudibranchs comes in the forms of prevention, natural predators, chemical destruction, and manual removal.

Treatment Method 1: Prevention of Montipora-Eating Nudibranchs:

Prevention lies in purchasing from a reputable dealer or hobbyist first and foremost. Chances are, if the person has had them before, that person will have them again. Next, the responsibility falls to the new owner of the coral in proper quarantine procedures (at least two months is recommended). Examination with a magnifying glass is recommended to help identify and remove eggs. However, the nudibranchs might have laid eggs in a hidden crevice. Since the eggs are laid at the base of the coral or on dead coral skeleton, some hobbyists chose to remove the coral from the base rock. Both remaining coral on the rock and base rock then dies. This is to help ensure that the eggs are not transferred.

Treatment Method 2: Controls for Montipora-Eating Nudibranchs

Some hobbyists have found certain natural predators will help control the nudibranchs. Unfortunately there are no known complete eradication measures available naturally. The wrasses generally known to eat most invertebrates will most likely also feed on the nudibranchs. It is important to keep in mind that as far as natural predators go, what works for one hobbyist may not work for another hobbyist, especially with wild creatures.

Treatment Method 3: Coral Dips for Montipora Eating Nudibranchs

The last method of eradication is by chemical means. Coral dips often help stun the pests so they can be blown off gently with a pipette or powerhead. These adult Montipora-Eating Nudibranchs (as pictured) were in a dip much longer than the coral colony could survive. Unfortunately, that is typically the case; however, there are a few less lethal options.

Montipora-Eating Nudibranch Treatment: Iodine

Many hobbyists have found that an hour-long dip in iodine will kill most adult nudibranchs. However, this may cause undue stress to the host coral, especially if flow, pH, and temperature are not ideal in the dip.

Montipora-Eating Nudibranch Treatment: Levamisole

Levamisole (a pig dewormer available at farm supply stores), has been used in a similar manner to the iodine dip, but with a higher fatality rate to the host coral. Levamisole paralyzes the nudibranchs so they can be removed more easily from the coral.

Montipora-Eating Nudibranch Treatment: Potassium Permanganate

Another chemical method is potassium permanganate. The dip (50mg/l for 30-90 minutes – Borneman, 2007) has been shown to effectively destroy both the adults and the egg masses with moderate impact to the coral. After eradication on the corals, the main tank should be kept free of Montipora for approximately two months.

Like all chemicals, caution should be exercised when handling potassium permanganate. Using an MSDS (Material Safety Data Sheet) to learn about the hazards of use and what protective gear is highly recommended. An MSDS for potassium permanganate suggests the use of eye protection, gloves, and respiratory protection as potassium permanganate can cause serious burns to the skin, nose, and throat.

Montipora-Eating Nudibranch Treatment: Series of Dips + Manual Removal

Rather than trying to kill both adult nudibranchs and eggs, I attempt to just break the lifecycle by removing the adults so that they cannot reproduce. When I get any frags of Montipora, I perform my usual coral intake process. I perform an inspection, remove the plug/base/dead skeleton, perform dips with manual pest removal, and attach a new base. Then I place the coral into my quarantine tank, but it stays for an extended period (60 days rather than the typical 30 days).

Since a succession of coral dips work for AEFW and red bugs, I also dip all Montiporas daily the first week to aid in manual removal. After that, I dip every other day the second week, every third day the third week, and then once a week for weeks four through six. I have not lost a single coral with this method, and it saves me the hassle of treating with different medications for different parasites at different times.

Various dips may work to stun the nudibranchs, and examples include CoralRx, Revive, and Tropic Marin Pro Coral Cure. Again, here the goal is to simply aid manual removal by stunning the adults. If the adults are removed, the eggs will continue to hatch in the presence of food. Adults are then easily removed before they can reach maturation. In the lifecycle model mentioned above, this was the most successful approach when implemented correctly.

Montipora-Eating Nudibranch Treatment: Display Tank + Dips

The worst challenge is a display tank with mature colonies infested with nudibranchs. My best advice is to consider the coral dip series described above (although large colonies may require buckets for treatments). Additionally, the hobbyist would have to kill any bases left attached to the rock along with unremovable encrusted Montipora colonies. Another option, if the colonies are smaller, may be for the hobbyist to remove all Montipora from the display tank. The hobbyist would then place all removed Montipora into a quarantine tank for treatment, minus a sacrificial frag that stays in the display. The hobbyist must then frequently replace that sacrificial frag so as to draw out the nudibranchs from the rockwork.

Montipora-Eating Nudibranch Treatment: Other Dip Options

Hobbyists have used garlic and freshwater dips with nudibranch mortality but they also often report high coral mortality.

Conclusion:

Although there are still no full-tank chemical treatments, eradicating Montipora Eating Nudibranch is possible with patience and proper husbandry. Using a combination of dips and manual removal seems to be the most effective option available at this time.

Dying Acropora Coral Rehabilitation

reefdup Acropora, Rehabilitation May 29, 2021May 29, 2021acropora, acropora eating flatworms, AEFW, brown coral, Dying Coral, red bugs, Rescue Coral, Tegastes acroporanus 0 Comment

Acropora Rehabilitation Before and After

Back in 2012, I took in several corals from a fellow reefkeeper, knowing they were all rescues. Included in the bulk were a few dying Acropora corals that desperately needed rehabilitation. However, rehabilitating small polyp stony (SPS) corals has its own challenges, and in many cases, these sensitive corals may experience a more rapid death than their large polyp stony (LPS) counterparts. Below I will cover the initial inspection, diagnosis, treatment, for a complete dying Acropora coral rehabilitation.

Assessing Dying Coral Health:

All dying Acropora coral were brown, not extending polyps, and had white marks on them. Upon initial inspection (and not shockingly), they had red bugs (Tegastes acroporanus) and Acropora-eating flatworms (AEFW). I treated the AEFW and red bugs with a series of coral dips as part of rehabilitation efforts. I also inadvertently subjected the tank to a reduced temperature (thanks power outage), which quite possibly killed the red bugs. (At the time, Interceptor was the normal protocol for treating red bugs, but there were also several other suitable treatments.)

Since AEFW lay eggs, it was critical to regularly inspect the coral and re-treat to completely eliminate the parasites. Thankfully, red bugs are live-bearers, so once they were initially eliminated, I no longer had to worry about them.

Quarantined Acropora Coral:

Of course, Acroporas require stable salinity, alkalinity, magnesium, calcium, etc. Given that I had over 50 corals undergoing rehabilitation at the time, my quarantine tank was not exactly a healthy aquarium. I had to focus particularly hard to make sure the other dying corals did not adversely affect the SPS. Water changes to remove excess nutrients were crucial. Once the Acropora parasites were gone, I maintained my alkalinity at 9 dKH, magnesium at 1350, and calcium at 450. I also performed 20% weekly water changes.

Previously Dying Acropora Coral Rehabilitated:

With stable parameters and a lack of parasites, this previously dying Acropora coral was quickly rehabilitated. They can heal quickly and add a beautiful touch to the aquarium. However, I don’t recommend Acropora rescues for beginners as they can have more severe pests than LPS corals, are sensitive to poor water conditions, and require careful monitoring of water parameters.

Red Bug Parasites (Tegastes acroporanus)

reefdup Identification, Red Bugs May 29, 2021October 16, 2022acropora, AEFW, Bayer, Coral, Interceptor, Milbemax, red bugs, small polyp stony, SPS, Tegastes acroporanus 4 Comments

Somehow back in the day, after over five years of having SPS-dominant aquariums, I got my first case of red bug parasites. A local aquarist was tearing down his system and gave me a few corals that weren’t doing well. Turns out, red bugs AND Acropora-eating flatworms (AEFW) infested the corals. Fortunately, I caught the red bugs while the Acropora was still in my quarantine tank.

Red bug parasites (Tegastes acroporanus) are extremely tiny copepods (as seen in the red circle in the photo) that solely infest Acropora corals (not Montipora, Pocillopora, etc.) They come into the hobby on wild or maricultured colonies (corals purposefully grown and harvested in controlled ocean environments), and hobbyist selling/trading of aquacultured corals further spreads them.

A good indicator of a red bug infection is a loss of Acropora tip coloration and browning that cannot be attributed to other factors. Red bugs caused the coral shown to lose nearly all coloration, while AEFW caused the white patches.

In the early 2000’s (now I’m dating myself), there was a general consensus in the reefkeeping hobby that red bugs only affected smooth-skinned Acroporas. Hobbyists assumed they did not bother corals like Milleporas or “the green slimer” due to the extra mucus they produce. Although red bugs do tend to prefer certain Acropora (especially Acropora valida, the “tricolor”), most every Acropora species is susceptible. Hobbyists also commonly believed that red bugs laid eggs and had a larval stage. This led to a consensus that three treatments were needed in order to eliminate the red bugs entirely. Although research eventually determined that red bugs are live bearers, I still recommend three treatments just as a safety precaution.

How to Identify:

On Acropora corals that have “browned out” due to red bug presence, the red bugs are rather distinguishable. They are mostly yellow (almost a gold color) with a bright red dot. They are also extremely tiny at around 0.5mm (think a little bigger than the size of the period at the end of this sentence). Unfortunately, they are not easy to see on healthy corals, and they have an ability to hide within the coral polyp itself without being consumed. In order to determine the presence of red bugs, I use a magnifying glass to look for them before placement into my quarantine system. After that, I observe the coral daily for a week. I also take a photo of each coral and zoom in to look for anything I’ve missed.

How to Treat Red Bug Parasites:

Unlike other serious pests (e.g., Montipora-eating Nudibranchs), there is a suitable in-tank treatment for red bug parasites.

Method 1: Control

Some hobbyists believe that blowing the corals off with a powerhead a few times for a couple weeks will rid the Acropora of red bugs since they may starve before finding their way back to the coral. Other hobbyists rely on natural predation (e.g., pipe fish, file fish, gobies, wrasses), but to my knowledge, no predators have a 100% success rate. I advise against natural control methods for aquarists who plan to sell/trade their corals.

Method 2: Coral Dips

Coral dips often help stun the pests so they can be blown off gently with a pipette or powerhead. Since red bug parasites are live bearers, this method can work as long as all the red bugs are removed. Since a succession of coral dips work for AEFW and red bugs, I dip all Acroporas daily the first week. After that, I dip every other day the second week, every third day the third week, and then once a week for weeks four through six. I have not lost a single coral with this method, and it saves me the hassle of treating with different medications for different parasites at different times.

I should note that I’ve never found a pest after week two, but I still go the full six weeks since the lifecycle of AEFW is quite long (and I always treat for both AEFW and redbugs). Also, some dips can be extremely damaging to smooth-skinned corals, so please use caution if you plan to treat one of these.

Coral Dip Treatment Protocol for Red Bug Parasites:

Follow dip manufacturer instructions.

Method 3: Prescription Flea Medications

Before the manufacturer discontinued it, hobbyists considered Interceptor (milbemycin oxime), a prescription canine flea medication, as the golden standard for red bug parasite treatment. However, as it killed all shrimp, crabs, and other crustaceans, aquarists had to remove them before dosing (the pod population recovered with time). This die-off would also spike ammonia levels, so reefkeepers had to be prepared for a water change and to run carbon. Many people had difficulty obtaining Interceptor from their veterinarians since treating for red bugs is an off-label use. However, the Veterinary Information Network (VIN) published information on red bug parasites for reference.

Once Interceptor was no longer available, reefkeepers began searching for a replacement. Currently, Milbemax is the most often recommended replacement. It is a prescription combination of milbemycin and praziquantel. (The latter medication is commonly used for fluke treatment in reef tanks (e.g., PraziPro); however, it is a much lower dose than would be effective for common marine flukes).

Providing proof of infection to a veterinarian and asking him/her to look up red bugs on the VIN should be enough to receive the medication (or at least it was for us.) Some veterinarians have recommended different medications with different treatment protocol (e.g., MilbeMite Otic), so those individual cases are not discussed here. Unfortunately, many aquarists are finding some red bugs have a resistance to milbemycin. If you try it with no success, work with your veterinarian to find an alternate medication or try one of the other methods listed here.

Interceptor Treatment General Protocol for Red Bug Parasites:

(This is provided for historical purposes only since Interceptor is no longer available, as it may be relevant to other treatments.) Dustin Dorton of ORA determined 0.025 grams of Interceptor are needed per 10 gallons of water. After that, the protocol is the same as Milbemax, described below.

Milbemax Treatment General Protocol for Red Bug Parasites:

(Obtain actual procedures from a veterinarian, as this is for general reference only.) The recommended dosage is 23mg per 400g tank water, which works out to 0.0575mg per gallon tank water (or 5.75mg per 100 gallons if that is an easier reference point). Similar to Interceptor medication, pulverize and weigh the medication out as accurately as possible. Estimate the true volume of water as close as possible (subtracting live rock, sand, etc.)

Remove all crabs, shrimp, and other crustaceans from the aquarium before dosing. Turn down the skimmer so that water runs through it, but the skimmer doesn’t actually skim. Remove GFO and activated carbon. Add an airstone (or multiple, depending on the size of the tank) bubbling gently to help maintain the pH. Otherwise, allow everything else to run so that the chemical can spread throughout the aquarium. Dose the correct amount and let the system run for six hours.

After six hours, the red bugs should be gone, but if they are not, slightly adjust the dosage and try again in a few days. Perform a water change (~15-25%), turn the skimmer back up, and bring the GFO and carbon back online. As mentioned above, although red bugs are live bearers, three treatments a few days apart is still ideal. Once the red bugs are completely eradicated and the medication is removed, reintroduce the crabs, shrimp, and other crustaceans to the aquarium.

Method 4: Bayer Advanced Insecticide

WARNING: Per Bayer Advanced Insecticide’s labeling, “It is a violation of Federal law to use this product in a manner inconsistent with its labeling.”

Yes, this is the stuff you may have in your garage or at your local hardware store. Some aquarists use it as a dip only, not as an in-tank treatment. This website does not cover Bayer use as a coral dip, due to the warning above.

Method 5: Temperature Adjustment

With crazy heat in the summers, lowering the tank temperature may not be feasible. But for tanks located in basements during the winter, this may be the least expensive option. In fact, this method worked for me…accidentally! Right after I received the infested Acropora mentioned above, we lost power for about six hours. My quarantine tank got down to about 65 degrees (thanks to being in Utah in the middle of winter). After the power came back on, there were no signs of red bugs. I’m not the first to document this. I still continued treating for them just in case, but I never saw another one. This seems to work, but we still need scientific studies to back it up.

Experimental Temperature Treatment Protocol for Red Bug Parasites:

Slowly lower temperature to 65-66 degrees. If tank inhabitants start to show signs of stress, start bringing the temperature back up. Leave the temperature at 65-66 degrees for 4-6 hours. Note: this is experimental, and there is not enough data to determine if this treatment works 100% or is safe. Use with caution!

Conclusion:

Thanks to all the courageous mad scientist reefkeepers out there, there are several proven treatments for red bugs, including an in-tank treatment. The Acropora shown was saved from both red bugs and AEFW! Hopefully, with the increasing ease of treatment protocols, red bugs will be a thing of the past. Best of luck in your treatment!